Ok I have jst gotten done fitting the drivers side header after removeale of the entire emistion system off the car (that was a bitch). First of all it is true what everyone say about removing the steering shaft and cutting the square off of the engine block. After all of that the install wasn't bad at all. I have a few issues about the fitment but for the most part they seem to fit rather nicely. The header is now hitting the K member and if you did not cut the square off of the block the header would not fit as one of the tubes is running right were that used to be (as shown in the pics). It appears right now that the collector and rest of the header fits really nice and you will most defeneatly need a 24" O2 extention for the drivers sideand a 12" one for the pass side. My headers are only installed for the pics as of now since I am and it is a good idea to replace the motor mounts at the same time as any header install as the stiifer mount will stop the headers from hitting since the motor cann't move as freely. If anyone has any questions whitch I am sure many will I will do my best to answer everyone as soon as I can. Than kyou all for this great site whitch alows fellow F-body people to come torgether and help each other out in all of the mods that everyone wants to do to their cars.
AIR PUMP REMOVEAL


MANIFOLD REMOVEAL


PASS MANIFOLD GOOD BUY


DRIVERS SIDE HEADER TRIAL FIT


SAME HEADER DIF ANGLE


UNDER CAR SHOT


PIC OF THE HEADER TUBE RUNNING WERE THE SQUARE ON THE BLOCK USED TO BE AND YOU WILL WNAT TO REMOVE AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE


K MEMBER THAT WILL NEED TRIMMING


COLLECTOR FROM UNDER INSIDE


COLLECTOR FROM UNDER OUTSIDE


I hope this will help everyone with making any desition about buying these headers.

 

So you have to grind aluminum off the block and grind the k member to fit? That would not sit well with me. You will rub a hole on that primary if its rubbing against the block.

 

You have to grind off the square off of the block for "ALMOST" any header install since they will not go post that point. I know for a fact that Pacesetters you have to do the same thing with. The primary is not rubbing on the block as long as you cut off enough of the square block piece. Ask almost anyone that has done a Lt install and they will tell you it is almost a must.




P.S. I have just gotten done cutting the K member and it is not an issue at all it just needs about 1/4" clearence for the primary tube to fit. I will no be waiting for the motor mounts and new plugs and wires for final install.

 

Dude !!! Those look SWEET !!

What did you use to cut the piece off the block ?

Are you going to torch the piece of K-member off ??

And are you going to replace your emissions system ?

Sweet looking headers !!!

 

i didnt have to grind off that piece on the block when i installed my macs my pacesetters or my flowtechs....i did have to grind the K member for my pacesetters though. And the pacesetters where on 2 different cars

 

I used a sawzall to cut the piece off of the block and a air cut off wheel for the K member it only took about 10 minutes to do both mods. I think as of right now I ahve a very nice set of headers for the money spend on them. As far as the emissions I will not be putting any of it back on the car and I have a LS6 intake on the way so no need for the EGR anymore and I hated the way the damn air pump sounded running every time I started the car.



I now have a used Borla for sale that will be posted in the clasifides soon. How much do you guys think it would be werth (fair price for both seller and buyer)?

 

As far as the Pacesetters goes my last car I put them on I had to jack up the motor on the drivers side but couldhave cut off the block and not jacked it up.

 

what year is your camaro ?

 

ok so you ground that piece off for install reasons not fitmint issues??? correct?

 

Thanks for the info! I can't wait to get home and put mine on. I have done a few engine and/or trans swaps in the past as well as header and other performance part installs. All of them required some homegrown ingenuity to accomplish so the minor mods you suggest do not bother me.

Thanks again and let us know if you run into anymore tips or snags.

 

I'm sorry but i've installed a few dozen sets of headers and have NEVER had to touch that little square.
Worst case on a couple of oddball installs i've had to jack the motor up a hair to get one side in. And i think one set of jet hots touched the K member.

 

What brand headers are these again?

 

Me neither. No grinding required for my pacesetters!

 

hookers let you slide them in

 

IN 02 I bought an original set of Pacesetters off of ebay and they also had to have the drivers side of the engine jacked up and they hit the K member and would rattle when under lite load. I am not saying that these are the best headers on the market but for what the cost is for what you are getting it is a hell of a bargane. I am not trying to get anyone to buy these I am just trying to give my best and honest thoughts about there install and fitment. If anyone wants to take my opinion and run with it they are more than welcome and if not that is ok also. I think that these are very nice headers (for the money spent) that need to have a few things modded on the vehicle to get a nice install and fitment out of them. I hope this has answered everyones questions about these headers.

 

Grinding the block mounting tab is no big deal, on Kooks didn't have to on Pacesetters I've installed I had to, I'm sure if you did other things you could get around it but it is soft aluminum I think I used a dremel it took like 5 minutes!

If I could get an answer on the Y pipe I think I'd order a set of these....

 

Sorry wont grind the block. Simple can't bring myself to it. The headers look great and thank you carrsls for posting and keeping everyone informed.

Looks like I will be making an investment with Kooks or QTP for stainless.

 

I have installed only the new style Pacesetters and did not have to grind or notch anything. Did not have to disconnect the steering linkage either. Shoot the Pacesetters fit better than the stock exhaust!

 

Well there are other reasons to go with those, but if the block grind is your only reason then I would reconsider. That tab is only there for the factroy building of the block. Its what it sits on to go down the assembly line. It is just a small piece of aluminum it does nothing.

Your body has the same "blocks" for the same purpose, if you ever want to run 11's in the rear you'd have to take the BFH to them.

I don't care either way just wanted to let you know what the block is and how grinding on it (with common sense) won't cause you any issues.

Its hard from the pictures to tell if its needed. With Pacesetters I did it to save me from having to jack up the motor... I understand your hesitance to grind on the block I don't like jacking up the motor even though it isn't going to hurt anything.

 

I guess I can see that. I just want to know why the manufacturer of any header would make one that doesn't install without just "slipping in." It may be a personal belief, but a company should make a product that doesn't require any additional modification to your installation procedure.

I am glad that there is an alternative to stainless quality however.