I need some input!! I have the SLP underdrive pulley on my car. I have a deadspot at 5200rpms. With Auto tap, i have no ignition probs, no fuel probs, but I am showing knock retard therefore it is cutting back timing. I have seen several posts about the pulley being out of balance causing knock, does everyone agree? I have the stock pulley that I plan on putting on tommorow, hopefully this will fix the problem, before I do this, does anyone have any ideas?
Dane
P.S. Does anyone know the torque value on the harmonic balancer bolt? <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

 

Does anyone KNOW? If not who do I rely on?
Dane

 

I wish I could help you man, but I don't know. I was thinking of putting one on myself as nex mod. There are some pretty smart tech's on here though that hopefully will help you. Sorry I can't, but will watch thread so I can see solution. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

BEEN THERE and DONE THAT

yes my SLP pulley did just that, I wasted 2 years and several hundred hours and dollars fighting THAT pulley with same problems as you,Icould not bleave that was problem,last November I did no more than remove SLP pulley and installed ASP pulley and have NO -NO hesitation,NO KR of any kind ,I would not be without ASP

www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com/photo4.html <http://www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com/photo4.html>
TOOLS
From Left to Right:

-24" Piece of pipe (for use w/ Breaker-bar)
-18" 1/2" Breaker-bar, 15/16 socket (1/2"), 15mm Socket (3/8")
-3/8" Socket wrench
-Torque wrench (Capable of 250 Ft. Lbs)
-3 arm pulley Puller (Part # 2768RT...from Pepboys)

STEP 1: Remove the serpentine belts (2 of them).
Using the 15mm socket, remove tension from the belts. To do this, simply apply pressure to the wrench in a downward/Clockwise postion. The "Belt tensioner" pulley will rotate downward and remove tension. Just pull the belt off. This method works for both belts.
STEP 2: Loosen Crank pulley Bolt
If you have a M-6, put it in 5th gear. This will prevent the crank from turning when breaking the crank bolt loose. Using the 18" Breaker-bar (along w/ the 24" Pipe...if necessary) loosen (DO NOT fully remove)the Crank pulley bolt. You want to leave the bolt still threaded just slightly. The bolt will provide the "base" on which the pulley puller will rest on.
STEP 3: Remove Pulley
Attach pulley puller (Part# 2768RT) to the INSIDE hub of the pulley. DO NOT USE THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER...YOU WILL DAMAGE THE PULLEY. Notice the red arrow points to the Crank bolt still in place (although almost completely backed out). After the pulley is attached, begin tightening the Pulley-puller...as it tightens, the Pulley will begin to inch it's way off the crank snout. Unfortunately the Crank bolt isn't long enough to allow the pulley-puller to fully seperate the Crank Pulley from the snout. To completely seperate it, we had to use a small pry bar. (If you do this...BE GENTLE! You do not want to damage the crank.) After a few gentle pry's at various points around the pulley, it fell off into my hands.
Post Pulley removal
If you've done everything correctly to this point, this is what it will look like.
STEP 4: Install ASP Underdrive Pulley
Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. You should be able to press it on just far enuff to allow the STOCK crank bolt to begin threading. Once it is threaded, tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an additonal 120 degrees.

You are almost finished. Afterwards, re-install the new belts (shorter belts), using the diagram located on the driverside fenderwell in the engine bay.
Stock Pulley vs. ASP pulley
You can easily see the huge difference is size. The ASP is a little lighter as well.

PS :: Stock pulley is about 7 5/8 in diag. about 10.6 #
the asp is about 5 5/8 and about 6 .4 #
on the A-4 on botton of bell house pop out the small inspection plug (about the size of a silver dollar) insert a big screw driver in and hold the flywheel also by the starter is a flap where you may insert a screw driner no need to remove the starter
PS: I allways replace the front seal cost= 10.00 time 10 minutes

Hope this helps Johnny

<small>[ October 18, 2002, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: SS SLP2 ]</small>

 

You da man, That's the kind of help a man needs!
Dane

 

I had the same problem. I had SLP take the pulley back and give me a store credit. Just ask they do not have an option because it is a faulty part.
ASP no problems!

 

Hi Dane. SLP had knock retard problems w/their underdrive LS-1 crank pullies. Countless people, including me had problems. Get it off, and your problems will be gone. ASP's work best. WJ. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

Hey everybody, I just replaced the SLP pulley back to stock. And the car runs like a dream, no cut out on top end RPM's. It's amazing that the pulley made the diffrence on knock retard.
THANX A MILLION GUYS
Dane

 

I planned on going out tonight and playin, but on the way around town I got t-boned and totalled my car. SO therefore i am car less now.
Dane

 

Tough, glad you ars alive and kicking
luck Johnny