I am not plumbing literate, would you mind posting the part number I would need or the one you used? I found one, but at over $8 each I am not confident enough on my decision.

Part#: 32MM-12-2
Male Metric: M12x1.5
Female Pipe: 1/8 NPT
List: $16.62
Sale: $8.31

 

Maybe I am missing something here, but why are you so opposed to just replacing the stock sending unit in the original place on the drivers side head ? its relatively easy to get to ... It is accurate on my 98 so why not just replace the sending unit ?

 

On your 98 its accurate. On 99-02 its a dummy gauge.

 

In my scenario, we have a 2001 ECM running our 98 Z28, so the cluster gauge doesn't work. Yet the ECM still receives the proper information (as scanned via HPTuners), but I need Jen to be able to see what the engine temp is. Since it is a race car only, I am slowly replacing the stock gauges with Autometer Ultra-Lites ... soon to be installed in the OEM gauge cluster area.

 

The stock sending units are accurate, its just that on the 99+ cars the PCMs take the input from the sender, intercepts it, and sends a seperate signal to the gauge. Which is why the gauge ends up being a dummy. On pre-99s I believe the sender sends one signal to the gauge and one to the PCM to use for its needs.

I think GM started doing this in recent years on all cars - the gauge on my '03 Blazer behaves the same way. I guess people complain if the temperature gauge moves to much, apparently they think the engine should run at a constant temperature regardless of conditions.

 

I just got the fittings to put the sending unit in, and do the TB bypass at the same time. A 3/8" 'T' fitting and a couple of fittings with barbed ends to put on the hoses. Maybe this will be almost accurate as putting it in the head.

 

I just found an autometer 1/8" NPT - 12mm x 1.5 adapter... made for adapting their senders to metric cars...
I called up summit, and they said they would waive the shipping fee on such a small item (or because I buy about $6k+ worth of stuff from them a year)

So that should be here on friday, then I will attempt to put it in the passenger side head and let you guys know how it comes out...



for those interested autometer p/n:2277 $8.95

 

will a code be thrown if i take the stock sending unit out of the driver side head, and put in my autometer sending unit in to replace it? any way to avoid throwing a code. i really dont want to mess around with the passenger side head. any pics of installing the sending unit by the throttle body?

 

Thats it.
You will need that adapter and a Letter "R" drill bit (.339"- tap drill size for 1/8-27 NPT). You will need the drill bit to open the ID up at the base of the threads as the auto meter sending unit is longer than the hole is deep (just as you will have to if you buy the one from the "barn")

 

Anything on the accuracy of this compared to putting it in the head?

 

On the highway I'm showing 195 degrees, and parked I'm showing 215-220. So it looks to be fairly accurate.

 

Yes, it will eventually throw a code and the car will continuously run in warm-up mode because the PCM will think that the temperature is always 0*. Therefore you'll be dumping a lot of fuel. DO NOT mess with your stock water temp sensor. I wouldn't try to splice into the stock sensor either because I believe that you'll run into issues there as well. I made the mistake of replacing it with the Autometer temp sensor for the Autometer water temp gauge a long time ago, and it doesn't work. Leave the stock water temp sensor alone, and put the Autometer water temp sensor in the passenger side head.

 

thanks, im going to order the adapter part from summit, and put it in the passenger side head.

 

That's where I put mine. There is a rubber grommit behind the A/C system you can use to run the wire...

 

I understand why people replace them ,I am just asking why in an aftermarket application would you not use the same location for the sensor ?

edit: nevermind, i didnt read crl's post

 

Just wondering if everybody is using an electrical water temp gauge or a mechanical one. I always thought the mechanical ones better. Would the adapters fit either one?

 

Electrical here. The adapters supplied with the gauges aren't the correct ones to mount the sending unit in the head.

 

Does this adapter allow the sensor to fit inside the head, or is the sensor outside the head? I ask because the sensor I have now stops right about the 2" mark, and only the tip is exposed to any fluid that may come out of the head and into the adapter.



I am going to assume this is similar to everyone else's and just deal with it. Only way to get the sender into the flow of the coolant is probably the top of the water pump. Please correct me if there is an easier way.

 

Holy 8 year thread bump.

 

I think that would be fine since coolant would be passing by it anyway, even if it's not in the direct flow.