1badZ28

does changing the bottom pulley out make a noticable difference? if so, is it worth the $250?

LOnSLO

iTrader: (15)

You can't really feel the difference. It's one of those "every little bit helps" mods. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Colonel

A WELL proven mod. You might not feel the difference very much but it WILL show up at the track (by contrast, there are mods that feel like they give a gain but show little or nothing at the track. SOTP is NOT a good indicator of performance!) Expect 1-1.5 MPH increase in the 1/4. Also, a little extra MPG is nice too. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

02SilverWS6

I read somewhere you get problems w/ the accessories of the car: Map lights, radio, etc.. Is this true?
I plan on getting it at a later time, also, do we only need to change the bottom pulley out? What's your setup people??

jd13

iTrader: (3)

I have pullies on my 1990. I also have a prety decent system in it. I had to remove 1 of the pulilies because the altenator could not keep up the charge. It has been replaced a few times.

As far as these cars go, I'm guessing it's probably the same. I think they are worth it personally for speed. But if you plan on putting in a nicer stereo (or even if you have monsoon) you're going to see yourself replacing the altenator sometime before you'd normally have to. Oh, and just to let you know, I plan on pullies and a stereo down the road.

1badZ28

so in conclusion -- they are pricy (for what they do), but a small speed gain is acquired -- and they cause problems. Now i know that i should look at other perforance mods first. thanks for youre help.

<small>[ November 13, 2002, 04:28 PM: Message edited by: 1badZ28 ]</small>

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

VERY worth the money!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

I used the ASP crank pulley and the overdrive pulley on the alternator. 0 problems after 10,000 miles and the engine revs up MUCH faster! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Colonel

If you just do the crank pulley (that's the one you get the real gains from anyway) you won't have any charging problems even with a moderately aggressive stereo. I was running a 600 watt Sony system with a 10" JL sub for about 24,000 miles in my '00 (this was with an A4 which only has a 550 rpm idle!) Did it again in my '01 for another 9500 miles.

I've NEVER heard of anyone with an LS1 that changed the crank pulley only and then put the stock one back on due to inadequate charging.

If you're that concerned about the charging (and you shouldn't be) you could always raise the idle a little (to get your %25 back you would only have to raise the idle to about 675)...course, it's already raised with an M6.

It's one of the most cost effective mods for a daily driver with some of the lowest side effects.

Colonel

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1badZ28:
<strong>so in conclusion -- they are pricy (for what they do), but a small speed gain is acquired -- and they cause problems. Now i know that i should look at other perforance mods first. thanks for youre help.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No, in conclusion everyone in this thread that did it to an LS1 liked it. The ONLY person that had a problem in thread had a 1990 model (I'm not positive but I believe our alternators are better) and STILL he only had to remove ONE of the pulleys (I would assume he put only the alternator pulley back to stock which really doesn't help power anyway.)

m1key99WS6

iTrader: (1)

Good mod, makes the car rev a little quicker, added 1MPH in the 1/4 too.

SSLink

I agree with The Colonel. I am running the ASP crank pulley on my M6 with no charging issues. It's a good mod. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
I had the alternator pulley on for a while as well, but took it off because it adds little, and voltage was dipping a bit low when my headlights, rear defogger and engine fan were on at the same time. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

DinoZ

iTrader: (5)

So is the crank pulley enough on it's own, or should the alternator overdrive be put on too?

SSLink

The crank pulley alone has been shown to be worth
8-10 HP. The alternator pulley may be worth 1 or 2 HP, but typically shows no change on the dyno when added or removed. <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

Colonel

Almost all of the gain you get from a set of underdrive pulleys comes from slowing the water pump down. Not the power steering (you're usually going in a straight line and thus working it almost none), not the alternator (it just doesn't take much to turn), and not the AC (it has a clutch which disengages when you go to WOT.) It's pumping and churning all of that water that saps the power. Slow the water pump down and you'll pick up power. ...And no, you won't have cooling problems...not even with a highly modded 422 (been there, done that.)

The alternator pulley really ain't worth diddly squat (been there, done that too, btw.) Maybe 1 HP.

<small>[ November 14, 2002, 12:21 PM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>

al

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Colonel:
<strong>Almost all of the gain you get from a set of underdrive pulleys comes from slowing the water pump down. Not the power steering (you're usually going in a straight line and thus working it almost none), not the alternator (it just doesn't take much to turn), and not the AC (it has a clutch which disengages when you go to WOT.) It's pumping and churning all of that water that saps the power. Slow the water pump down and you'll pick up power. ...And no, you won't have cooling problems...not even with a highly modded 422 (been there, done that.)

The alternator pulley really ain't worth diddly squat (been there, done that too, btw.) Maybe 1 HP.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thats the first that I hear about the A/C clutch disengauging at WOT. Dose this mean we can`t fry our A/C while racing? I`m sure that it still robs you of some power nailing it with the A/C on. Please tell me more about the A/C systems (I`m not sure how to word this) functions, or ups and downs. I hope this post makes sense.

DaddySS

And by the way, an added advantage is that it slows the alternator, idler pulleys, water pump etc. during high revs which is very beneficial in helping those parts last longer. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Red2000SS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by al:
<strong>Thats the first that I hear about the A/C clutch disengauging at WOT. Dose this mean we can`t fry our A/C while racing? I`m sure that it still robs you of some power nailing it with the A/C on. Please tell me more about the A/C systems (I`m not sure how to word this) functions, or ups and downs. I hope this post makes sense.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes, the A/C clutch disengages at WOT. You're not going to fry your A/C while racing, because the PCM will disengage the A/C clutch. I would worry about a lot of other things breaking while racing before I worried about my A/C. I for one like to run my A/C and be cool and comfortable when my valvesprings break, driveshaft snaps, pushrods bend, etc. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" /> LOL!

I don't think it will really rob you of ANY power when you nail it - I live in Texas and my A/C is always on for 9-10 months out of the year... and I floor it all the time with the A/C on.

Damage Inc.

iTrader: (7)

Would the addition of an Overdrive Alternator pulley be a good idea, or would it just take away the gains from the crank. I just don't want to have to worry about charging problems. Any words?

slow

iTrader: (7)

QUESTION, is the alt pulley an overdrive or underdrive pulley, 99% of what i have read is its an overdrive, so it would take away hp. *(BUT keep the voltage up)*

So why would you not install it?

Ryan.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

The alt pulley from ASP is an underdrive pulley, but I believe you can order an overdrive pulley for the alt if you spend a lot of time reading maps at nite while idling at red lites with your headlites on HI beam, AC on MAX and your 600 watt stero blasting, and then decide to push in the cig. liter to fire up a dobie. Otherwise stick with the factory or underdrive ASP pulley. Once you get over 800 RPM your up to full charge which is about 90% of the time anyway. The ASP pulley is about half the weight and diameter of the factory pulley. It spins the parasitic devices slower and enables the engine to rev faster. This translates into more HP quicker. For you guys that live south of the Mason/Dixon I read where you can now get a drivers seat with AC so you can stay extra cool while racing. The ASP Pulley swap is NOT the first "BOLT ON" mod you want to do. Actually it's one of the last. You better start with some of the easier stuff first or have a good mech. do the pulley install for you and get a bolt that is longer than stock to pull the ASP pulley onto the crank snout. I found a 16X2X120mm stainless bolt at a hardware store. That's 17mm longer than stock. It really helps when getting the ASP Pulley initially started onto the crank snout because you have a lot more threads in the crank before the bolt head bucks up against the pulley hub and tries to push the pulley onto the crank. The ASP Pulley set is worth the $200 it costs.