Alright I finally worked up the courage to change my plugs <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> to the NGK's any tips on how to make this a very less PITA job? <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" /> Also at what gap should I set them at? The manual say's .60 <img border="0" alt="[bullshit]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_bs.gif" />

 

When you do the passenger side, rear plug, do it from under the car, it's much easier. Also, get you about an 8" length of 3/8 fuel line to start your plugs with. This way you don't cross thread them. I took an old stubby screw driver & gluded the fuel line to it & it's my dedicated plug starter. It works great since it's hard to get your hands in to most spots. Drivers side is really easy. I always use anti seize but I'm not sure if that's recommended on aluminum.

Also, make sure you have a decent set of extensions & a wobble or two. I have a pivot head ratchet that makes life allot easier...but I turn wrenches for a living so I got a pretty nice set of tools. It's no big deal, just don't try for that back plug from the top unless you have VERY skinny arms....just do it from the bottom...may as well change the oil while you got it in the air <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Do it with engine stone cold (first thing in the morning)!

I gap them at .050". And use anti-seize!

I do all of mine from the top. Passenger side:
I remove the air tube from the exh manifold and get it out of the way (two 10mm bolts and one clamp - gasket is reusable if you are careful with it).
Then I remove the first 3 wires all the way off and out of the way. Take the back one only off of the plug.
Start on the back plug and work forward replacing the plugs and putting the wires back on as you go forward. Use fuel line or an old plug boot to remove and install plugs. I use a 1" extension on all of the PS plugs and a long extension with a swivel on some DS plugs. DS is easy.

Some will disagree with my technique, but I have it down to about 30 minutes for all eight. Works for me.

 

I took out both air tubes, removed the egr (if equipped), took out the first coil pack on both sides. On the passenger side, the furthest one toward the back, I got from underneath. I used anti-sieze on the new plugs and some silicone on the wires. If youve got a spark plug socket, then it makes it alot safer and saves some time. It holds the plug in there so that it doesnt fall out.

 

If you are a LS1 spark plug changing virgin,have a lot of patince and some band aids.It will get easier and faster with each plug change!!

 

i took of my valve covers off and it made it alot easyer to get to the plugs. and u get to see what kinda shape ur valvetrain is in. it may seem like alot of work but no climbing under neath the car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

<small>[ November 21, 2002, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: rocketsled ]</small>

 

I get that last one from the bottom also.Use anti sieze!!!!!I gapped mine @ .055.You'll need a stubby ext. to get that last one on PS.Good luck!

 

What do you mean by a stubby ext? I am also trying to change my plugs. Do you guys have any pics of the fuel line hose thingy that you made to help with the plug changing process. I managed to get a few of them out but it is getting pretty tough! But then again I ain't the greatest gear head. Thanks!

 

I posted this a couple of weeks ago on what I did.

Those of you that have or have'nt changed the plugs in your LS1 heres the procedure that worked for me. I wrote it all down so I could post it since there is always someone asking about how to get to that pesky #8.

The tools you will need are:
- Swivel Ratchet 3/8
- Fixed Ratchet 3/8
- Swivel Extension 3/8
- Extensions adding up to 8" (I used 4 2")
- 1 1" extension
- 1 10mm socket
- 1 5/8 plug socket
- Antiseize
- Diaelectric Grease
- Plug Gapper

If you still have the factory piece oh sh*t plugs in get rid of them!!
All but 2 plugs had the platinum disks removed from the electrode, which means they were gapped at .075 to .080
I used NGK TR55's to replace the factory ones.

Heres what I did:
Remove the rubber hoses off the air tubes where they meet the check valves.
Then remove the air tube bolts on both sides and remove the air tubes out of the engine bay.(Careful not to hurt the gasket, you can reuse with no problem)

Remove all the plug wires from coils and plugs
and dielectric grease the insides of the boot and the contacts.

As you remove the old plugs gap the new ones(I set mine for .056) The rule here is to remove .004 from the gap for every 50 HP you add to the motor.
then make sure you put the antiseize on the threads of the plugs. start about 1 thread from the end to be safe. Do not get any on the electrode parts or anything that comes in contact with the cumbustion chamber (pre ignition will occur)

Starting on the drivers side this was my combo:
#1 and #3 swivel ratchet with 1" extension.
#5 swivel ratchet with 2" extension.
#7 swivel ratchet with 2" extension and swivel extension, swivel should be closest to plug socket.

On the passenger side this was the combo:
#2 and #4 swivel ratchet with 2" extension.
#6 fixed ratchet with 1" extension.
#8 swivel ratchet mounted right to the plug socket.

The only one I had to get from underneith was #8.
All the other plugs were gotten from the top without removing any coil packs or other parts, and I had a BMR STB in place too.

The spark plug wires can be put back on now.

Then put antiseize on the gasket area on the air tube and the bolts. Install both of those and hook up the rubber hoses.

This procedure was done on a 2000 WS6 + 6
The same is for a 1998 Trans Am A4

Take your time and if your arm/hand dont fit try another position.
It took me about an hour to do the job.