Any special tricks to applying header wrap?
I've never done this before and was wondering if anyone could give me any tips.
I know its made of fiberglass, and I will be sure to wear gloves. Any other steps I should undertake? What do you all use to secure the wrap when you've finished wrapping?
<small>[ December 07, 2002, 01:30 PM: Message edited by: verbs ]</small>
One thing to be aware of is that header wrap speeds the deterioration of headers. It heats the pipes higher creating more stress on the metal, and it holds moisture creating a perpetual rust friendly environment around the tubes. Your best bet is to use coated headers or strip/repaint the headers with the highest heat, most corrosion resistant paint you can possibly find. There are also sealers now that you can spray on the header wrap once you have it installed to protect from moisture.
Good luck
Dave
In my opinion, header wrap is a gamble for street-driven cars, and should only be used for race cars that can afford to have the headers replaced frequently. I would go for a special coating instead such as Jet-Hot.
Hope this helps!
-Brad
My problem is even with the coating my o2 sensors aren't heating up enough. I need to find some other way to heat em up.
I was going to wrap them to keep in the heat.
I also live in Arizona where there isn't a lot of moisture.
I don't want to wrap the headers at all, but I feel I have no other choices in my quest to keep my o2 sensors heated properly.
I have a bunch of stainless steel tie wraps you might want to use. These are designed for military applications but would work great with header wrap.
E-mail me if you need some. I will have to send them from Korea, but should not be a problem.
Ron,
turbota@kornet.net
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When I did my IROC headers several years ago I sandblasted them...coated them with high temp cold-galvinized paint/primer( 2 thin coats)...then top-coated with high temp silver header paint(2 more thin coats). I cured the primer in the oven...then cured the silver paint in the oven too...about 200 degrees each time for about 10 to 15 minutes each time...waited about a week too make sure everything was completely cured. When I installed the wrap I made it damp and stretched it as I wrapped it. I used stainless hose clamps to fasten it. After each header was wrapped I baked in the oven again for about 10 minutes...this hardens and shrinks the wrap for a real tight fit. The whole process takes awhile but it came out perfect and lasted for years...I have since sold the car so I don't know long term effect but I had it that way for 5 years at least. I never had any problem with rust.
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Jay
<strong>Why not fix the root problem here? Header wrap is a nasty solution. Either the O2s are crap or the wiring is faulty.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The o2's are fine; I can't find any wiring problems visually.
<strong>why don't you just use sims since you're have problem with your rear sensors correct
Jay</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Jay, I'm even getting an occasional heater code on my o2 simms <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
<img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" /> Damn heater codes
<img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />






