Poly engine mounts..
Poly engine mounts.. Ok ive been reading plenty of threads about people using poly enginge mounts and installing them when they do the headers, are they that much of a must do when upgrading the lsx engines, should i look into doing them also, whats the good thing about doing them im not really sure, anybody enlighten me on them. Should I or no.
LOL how could you have read plenty of threads about this and not know? 
They will help keep your motor from rocking-and-rolling when you stomp on it. This solves lots of problems before they start. It helps keep y-pipes from banging, helps keep lids from cracking, helps save your tranny mount (even if just a little), and helps in way's I haven't thought of yet.
They are so cheap, and so hard to install with exhuast IN the car, it's a great idea to do them when you've got all that junk out of the way. It's also not a good idea to run a poly trans mount with stock motor mounts. If you ever wanted to put on a poly trans mount (i have one and love it too), you'd really need to put on the poly motor mounts.
There is absolutly NO downside to installing them unless you need the $50 for a new kidney or something.
They will help keep your motor from rocking-and-rolling when you stomp on it. This solves lots of problems before they start. It helps keep y-pipes from banging, helps keep lids from cracking, helps save your tranny mount (even if just a little), and helps in way's I haven't thought of yet.
They are so cheap, and so hard to install with exhuast IN the car, it's a great idea to do them when you've got all that junk out of the way. It's also not a good idea to run a poly trans mount with stock motor mounts. If you ever wanted to put on a poly trans mount (i have one and love it too), you'd really need to put on the poly motor mounts.
There is absolutly NO downside to installing them unless you need the $50 for a new kidney or something.
Originally Posted by ninetres
Also, theoretically speaking, the less your motor shifts the less drive train loss you will encounter........I think 
When you let the clutch out, the motor has to pick itself up, when you shift it comes back down, then has to pick itself up again!
What i ment about me readin alot of thread i ment reading peoples threads that say they have them in there mod list, never really read a thread saying why they are good, thats all. I should have clarified.
Ok well now I wanna know where I can find them, any sites come to mind? And is there a better brand to stick with, and roughyl how hard are they to put in, what kind of ride will i have afterward?
Ok well now I wanna know where I can find them, any sites come to mind? And is there a better brand to stick with, and roughyl how hard are they to put in, what kind of ride will i have afterward?
Thunderracing.com , they are a sponser.
Prothane makes the motor mounts. You should not notice any difference in driving, some people even report LESS vibrations after they are installed. I've only seen 1 person who said he felt a difference in vibrations after putting them in. If there is any vibration, it will be SLIGHT, and you'll forget it's there after about 3 drives.
Here's a writeup about doing it with the exhaust still installed, but its WAY easier without it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/492703-best-poly-motor-mount-write-up-ever-written.html
You'll have to move the alternator to get the driverside BIG bolt out, or unbolt the pedestal from the k-member. You'll have to move the A/C compressor to get the BIG bolt out, or unbolt pedestal (easier) on the passenger side.
Then it's just a matter of taking the 4 bolts that hold the stock mounts to the block out. You have to cut the old clamshell open that holds the stock mounts with either a drillbit and a punch, or a cutoff wheel, as they are riveted together. Prothane supplies bolts and instructions as to how to bolt the clamshell back together with the mount still inside.
After this, you do the process in reverse. I've found it easier to do one side at a time to keep the motor lined up. You'll also need a jack under the bellhousing to support the motor while it's unbolted.
It is not that complex, and much easier sounding once you get the exhaust out and can see everything.
Note: The alternator has a TINY red wire running out of the top with a weathertight connector. It's very easy to miss when you're pulling the alternator and loves to rip out, so pay attention.
Prothane makes the motor mounts. You should not notice any difference in driving, some people even report LESS vibrations after they are installed. I've only seen 1 person who said he felt a difference in vibrations after putting them in. If there is any vibration, it will be SLIGHT, and you'll forget it's there after about 3 drives.
Here's a writeup about doing it with the exhaust still installed, but its WAY easier without it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/492703-best-poly-motor-mount-write-up-ever-written.html
You'll have to move the alternator to get the driverside BIG bolt out, or unbolt the pedestal from the k-member. You'll have to move the A/C compressor to get the BIG bolt out, or unbolt pedestal (easier) on the passenger side.
Then it's just a matter of taking the 4 bolts that hold the stock mounts to the block out. You have to cut the old clamshell open that holds the stock mounts with either a drillbit and a punch, or a cutoff wheel, as they are riveted together. Prothane supplies bolts and instructions as to how to bolt the clamshell back together with the mount still inside.
After this, you do the process in reverse. I've found it easier to do one side at a time to keep the motor lined up. You'll also need a jack under the bellhousing to support the motor while it's unbolted.
It is not that complex, and much easier sounding once you get the exhaust out and can see everything.
Note: The alternator has a TINY red wire running out of the top with a weathertight connector. It's very easy to miss when you're pulling the alternator and loves to rip out, so pay attention.
Wholly crap does it really take that long to do? Or what is the real estimate on the install. He said it took him etimated 20-25hrs. I hope he was just kidding.
And I just checked them on the site, It says 49.99 per pair how many do i need.
And I just checked them on the site, It says 49.99 per pair how many do i need.
Last edited by 1slowls1; May 11, 2006 at 01:37 AM.
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Originally Posted by 1slowls1
Wholly crap does it really take that long to do? Or what is the real estimate on the install. He said it took him etimated 20-25hrs. I hope he was just kidding.
Once you get the exhaust fully out of the way, I'd only expect it to take an extra 1.5 hours or so if you were by yourself. I promise you'll thank yourself if you take the time and do them.
What all have you installed? Are you pretty handy with a wrench?
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Originally Posted by 1slowls1
Wholly crap does it really take that long to do? Or what is the real estimate on the install. He said it took him etimated 20-25hrs. I hope he was just kidding.
It's not easy, but MUCH more simple with the manifolds off. After doing them on my car, I'd recommend that anyone swapping longtubes should change the motor mounts. The will benefit you in many ways as mentioned. When my old ones came out the rubber was shrunken, cracked and freely moving in the clam shells. My motor began jumping around in my engine bay after the 1st cam install. The second heads/cam job I did motor mounts and my engine is dead still.
I could prob do it, I have qtp's to install now, and as i hear or read they are goin to be a bitch, so you would only think it would take around 1.5hrs - 2hrs to do, with out any manifold or exh in the way, would it help also if i said i was doing a head and cam job at the same time, also while replacing my oil pump and timing chain. So i might as well do it all in one shot right, Is there anything else you can think of that i should do while im doing this? Oh and as you say that it would help from y-pipe banging which is good cause i hear the qtp y-pipe like to hit the undercarriage.
Well with all that **** out of the way, it definatly wouldn't be HARDER. LOL
You will be able to put your hand down beside the block and unscrew **** without the heads on, instead of doing everything from the bottom.
One of the hard parts is getting the 4 bolts from each side out of the block. What I found works best is to gather up all the extensions/swivels you can, stick them thru the a-arms/steering then attatch the socket, stab the bolt, attatch your wrench to the other end of the extensions, and go to town.
You will be able to put your hand down beside the block and unscrew **** without the heads on, instead of doing everything from the bottom.
One of the hard parts is getting the 4 bolts from each side out of the block. What I found works best is to gather up all the extensions/swivels you can, stick them thru the a-arms/steering then attatch the socket, stab the bolt, attatch your wrench to the other end of the extensions, and go to town.
Sweet so it wont be much of a hassle then, And is def a must would you say?
esp that im doin all this other stuff. Oh and how many do I need? Since they come in pairs. And i doubt it very much that i would only need 2. Is there anything else i should swap out with a poly while im at it?
esp that im doin all this other stuff. Oh and how many do I need? Since they come in pairs. And i doubt it very much that i would only need 2. Is there anything else i should swap out with a poly while im at it?
With the level you're tearing the car down to, it would be a shame not to do them. Since you're making more power, your motor is really going to try to move alot under throttle, as well as shake more while idling. You just need 2 of them, or 1 pair.
LS6 manifold and UD pulley is about the only things I can think of that I would do at the same time. At least 20-25rwhp in those two alone, maby more with the H/C. LS1_SS is buying up LS1 manifolds, so that might offset your cost a bit.
LS6 manifold and UD pulley is about the only things I can think of that I would do at the same time. At least 20-25rwhp in those two alone, maby more with the H/C. LS1_SS is buying up LS1 manifolds, so that might offset your cost a bit.
Yeah i already have the ls6 i/m ready to install at the same time as long with the u/d pulley. So it is a cheap mod then, do you need to lube them before install or no, presoak in something?
Is there anything that would stiffen up a tranny, like a tranny mount I know they make them for the a4 but is there one for the t56 is that a good idea or no.
Is there anything that would stiffen up a tranny, like a tranny mount I know they make them for the a4 but is there one for the t56 is that a good idea or no.
Originally Posted by 1slowls1
Yeah i already have the ls6 i/m ready to install at the same time as long with the u/d pulley. So it is a cheap mod then, do you need to lube them before install or no, presoak in something?
Is there anything that would stiffen up a tranny, like a tranny mount I know they make them for the a4 but is there one for the t56 is that a good idea or no.
Is there anything that would stiffen up a tranny, like a tranny mount I know they make them for the a4 but is there one for the t56 is that a good idea or no.
Yeah, I'd do the tranny and torque arm mounts also. They are cheap and not hard to install.
Oh man the list is never ending, Now that you mention the torque arm should I just do a whole new torque arm? I was looking at the bmr ones, should i look into the adjustable or non adjustable? And would it fit with the bmr driveshaft safety loop? Soooo many questions I have. I can keep them coming all night. But its better to ask someone whos been there done than than make mistakes.
The TQ arm, trans mount, and TQ arm mount can all be done later with the same amount of work.
The trans mount will cause a little bit of interior vibration, but I forgot all about it after a few days driving. You can pick one of those up at autozone for $20 (energy suspension brand). Dead hooking 1st gear w/ 4.11's used to send my shifter up and nearly into the rear view untill I put the poly trans mount.
I REALLY like the UMI bodymount adjustable TQ arm w/ DS saftey loop. I'd get one if I didn't have true duals.
The trans mount will cause a little bit of interior vibration, but I forgot all about it after a few days driving. You can pick one of those up at autozone for $20 (energy suspension brand). Dead hooking 1st gear w/ 4.11's used to send my shifter up and nearly into the rear view untill I put the poly trans mount.
I REALLY like the UMI bodymount adjustable TQ arm w/ DS saftey loop. I'd get one if I didn't have true duals.
