Crank bolt stripped!!!
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: So. Cal
Crank bolt stripped!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> Well, while I was putting my stock pulley back on I bought a threaded rod from a bolt shop. Everything looked fine looked almost identicle as far as the threads and all. I put this rod in and give it a few turns with my fingers then with a rachet, it got hard all of a sudden so I pull it out. I managed to get the pulley on and started the stock bolt on, tightened to 240lbs and removed it and noticed that 1/4in of the thread was gone I pulled out all the shavings I could installed a new bolt. Tightened to 37lbs and turned an additional 140º, but it was not tight at all. Started the car and the noticed the belt jumped because the pulley was not seated all the way. So I just pulled the new bolt off and it too is bald the first 1/4in What can I do? Should I take it to the dealer? Will they or can the fix it? Help please <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />
10 Second Club
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From: Wichita, KS - 1400' above sea level ;-)
Re: Crank bolt stripped!!! Might consider getting an ASP pulley now as well, since they have a "starter" area of enlarged I.D.
that makes them a good bit easier to "pull" onto the crank. They were designed this way to SPECIFICALLY prevent the problem you just had, using a stock bolt to install the pulley.
Also, since it now is in your best interest to "dodge" using the first 1/4 inch of threads in the crank to pull ANYTHING on - get a setup of either the correct METRIC threaded rod, or cut a stock bolt off (check the hardware store first to see if you can find a bolt of the same diam and thread pitch as stock with a threaded area LONG enough to install the pulley with the bolt fully seated IN ADVANCE in the crank) and have somebody weld a ANOTHER bolt "butted" to it (the cut-off stocker) to fashion an installer.
If you're in doubt, explain to the dealer mechanics what happened and they should be able to handle it.
<small>[ December 14, 2002, 09:48 AM: Message edited by: Plum Crazy Rob ]</small>
that makes them a good bit easier to "pull" onto the crank. They were designed this way to SPECIFICALLY prevent the problem you just had, using a stock bolt to install the pulley.
Also, since it now is in your best interest to "dodge" using the first 1/4 inch of threads in the crank to pull ANYTHING on - get a setup of either the correct METRIC threaded rod, or cut a stock bolt off (check the hardware store first to see if you can find a bolt of the same diam and thread pitch as stock with a threaded area LONG enough to install the pulley with the bolt fully seated IN ADVANCE in the crank) and have somebody weld a ANOTHER bolt "butted" to it (the cut-off stocker) to fashion an installer.
If you're in doubt, explain to the dealer mechanics what happened and they should be able to handle it.
<small>[ December 14, 2002, 09:48 AM: Message edited by: Plum Crazy Rob ]</small>
Re: Crank bolt stripped!!! You should have read the posting on the ASP Pulley install and you wouldn't be having this problem right now. You can use a 16X2X120mm bolt to get the pulley started, NOT the factory bolt which is only 103mm long. The extra 17mm of thread length makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE! You may be able to get an even LONGER bolt in there, but that was the longest I could find at a local hardware store. Not every hardware store is going to carry that bolt. This was a store that specializes in MARINE products. It's a Stainless Steel bolt and didn't cost any more than a factory replacement bolt that the shop manual says your supposed to buy anyway to reinstall the crank pulley. The $120.00 Helm Shop Manual would have told you about the SPECIAL FACTORY CRANK PULLEY PUSHER TOOL that your supposed to have if you want to do this job the "RIGHT" way. Just hope it's just the bolt threads and NOT any of the crank threads that are stripped out!
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: the third rock from the sun!
Re: Crank bolt stripped!!! There was on thread on here with the exact same problem. I'll see if I can find it for you. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
Re: Crank bolt stripped!!! You sure it is 16 mm and not 18mm? I thought it was 18mm. At least that is what I remember purchasing when I made me a ~12" long bolt. All thread is what I use to get my pulley started and it works great.
ERic
ERic
Re: Crank bolt stripped!!! You can use a vernier caliper and a thread pitch gauge to be sure you get the right bolt, but you already knew that. Right? Or you can just bring the bolt with you to the hardware store to match it up. It's been quite a while since I did the ASP pulley install so it could be an 18mm diameter. There is a lesson to be learned here. You body has 3 built in torque wrenches. You wrist is calibrated in inch pounds. The elbow in ft/lb and your shoulder is for the crank and brake caliper bolts, but only for the final tightening stages. When your installing any fastener you need to have a "feel" for how much force is needed to get it started properly. When in doubt back it out is probably a good rule here. Nothing worse than that feeling you get when you back out a fastener and it is covered with metal filings. Thread chasers, dies and taps take a some time to use, but they pay for themselves in the long run.
