Well, the more I think about it, and search on it, the more I realize my car is suffering from a poor pcv system. I've read a little about upgrading the PCV system to the LS6 style. What all would this involve? I figured I would need the LS6 valley cover, already have the LS6 intake, but what else would I need? From what I've read, I'm not to sure on, what part of my stock PCV system would I keep, and what would be done away with? I appreciate the help guys. As always pic's are always welcome

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BoscoZ28:
<strong>Well, the more I think about it, and search on it, the more I realize my car is suffering from a poor pcv system. I've read a little about upgrading the PCV system to the LS6 style. What all would this involve? I figured I would need the LS6 valley cover, already have the LS6 intake, but what else would I need? From what I've read, I'm not to sure on, what part of my stock PCV system would I keep, and what would be done away with? I appreciate the help guys. As always pic's are always welcome</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You need the GM plug for the driverside cover, a 3/8" vacuum cap from Autozone or wherever on the passengerside, and depending on what year block you have you may need to do some clearancing of the block itself. Also, to connect the outlet from the LS6 valley cover to the intake (doesnt matter if its an LS1 or LS6 intake, location is the same) you will need about a foot of 3/8" fuel/pcv line and a 3/8" hose barb. Hope that helps.

 

I would also add a small fuel filter inline to try and catch some of the oil.

 

Can you list the components of the LS1 pvc system and the LS6 system. Could I purchase all the things that I would need to convert it over from Autozone? Couldnt I just ask for a new pcv for a LS6 or a ZO6 Corvette? Also, please list the things that I would need for a conversion from a 2000 SS to a LS6 system, thanks.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by onebadss:
<strong>Can you list the components of the LS1 pvc system and the LS6 system. Could I purchase all the things that I would need to convert it over from Autozone? Couldnt I just ask for a new pcv for a LS6 or a ZO6 Corvette? Also, please list the things that I would need for a conversion from a 2000 SS to a LS6 system, thanks.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Read above.

 

So can I get all the things that I need to convert it from Autozone and can you give me some steps on how to do it? Would I just ask for a Corvette ZO6 pcv?

 

From what I have gathered so far, you need the LS6 valley cover, and LS6 PCV pipe assembly. If your real intrested in doing this, I was told to email a guy that goes by the screen name of 'valvegod' He stocks all the parts you need, around $150. I hope to be doing this swap in a week or too. Ill keep yall posted

 

Whats the valley cover and the pipe assembly?

 

This is not something that you buy at autozone. You need to go to a dealer if you want to do the switch. The valley cover is the piece that bolts to the top of the engine, right under the intake. I have seen the ls6 blow as much oil by as the ls1. That is why I recommended putting in an additional filter of some sort. Could be one of the small plastic fuel filters, or a glass air filter type. I would just replace your ls1 pcv valve with a new one and add the extra filter. Not worth switching to the ls6 in my opinion.

 

...the extra filter?? Where can I get one of those and what is the part #? Where would it go and what is its purpose?

 

I put the filter after the pcv inline before it goes into the intake manifold. Just bought some 3/8" hose I think, and used some screw on clamps to tighten it up. I don't have part numbers. This is just something that was pieced together. Ask them for a cheap small plastic fuel filter at autozone. It is used to filter larger particles of oil from going into the intake, and back into the combustion chamber.

 

How did you manage to put on a small fuel filter on the nipple of the intake? The pcv hose goes over that nipple. Can you explain in a little more detail how you did this, thanks.

 

Can I just ask for the new components for the ZO6 from Autozone and then put it on my car? What is the valley cover and can that be bought at Autozone? I need someone to list all the components that I would need to convert a 2000 SS to a LS6 pcv system, Ive already got the LS6 intake. Thanks

 

Stroked, you're the first one that I've heard say that the LS6 PCV system does not help that much. All of the people who I've spoke to about the LS6 PCV say that it almost eliminated or completely eliminated their oil contamination problems.

Bosco and Onebadss, instead of doing the LS6 thing I just did the SHM mod to the factory LS1 PCV system. Some say it's very bad for crankcase pressure and that over time it can cause piston ring seal problems that leads to blow by. However, without the filters oil contamination can cause pinging that will cause a loss of power and maybe engine damage....so it's kinda like "you're damned if you do and you're damned if you don't". I spoke with Steve Hovis in e-mail and he even doesn't like his own mod anymore. He said that there are better ways to correct the problem, like the LS6 PCV. Anyway, here are detailed directions on how to do the SMH mod:

http://www.fbody.com/members/stevenm...ML/pcv_mod.htm

It comes out to be like $25. Keep in mind that the part number for the catch can is not on there because it never seemed to trap any oil because the filters took care of it all. He just eliminated the catch can but it's still in the pictures. Steve Hovis also suggested an oil/air seperator. You can get them for like $65 and they are designed to remove oil and contamination from compressed air streams. They're used in medical applications a lot. Anyhow, buy the time you buy the thing and a drip can to drain it the whole deal will cost almost as much as the LS6 PCV system. Stroked says that the LS6 system is no good anyhow and if he's right then who knows. All I know is that GM designed a new PCV system for the LS6 all while stating that there never was a problem with the LS1's system and they wont correct the problem under warranty even if the motor is pinging. Good luck...

<small>[ December 24, 2002, 02:46 PM: Message edited by: Martingale00 ]</small>

 

So would the pcv mod be more affective than just converting over to a LS6 pcv system? If GM new that the f-body pcv systems werent that effective and switched to the new style for the ZO6, why didnt they offer it in the 01 and 02 Camaros? How much am I looking at spending by converting over to the LS6 system as opposed to the $25 mod. Do you have any links on how to convert to a LS6 system? Thanks

 

The ls6 pcv does help, but an inline filter will make an even better setup without vacumm problems if done correctly. I wish I was at home so that I could take a picture. I will email you a pic after the 2nd when I get home. You connect the rubber hose to the pcv, which then goes to the fuel filter. Now you run another 8" or so hose from the filter outlet to the intake connection. Just trying to save you the hassle of removing the intake, and replacing the whole pcv system. Easier to explain with a picture. I hope it is a little clearier though.

 

Stroked, that's the whole idea behind the SMH mod. It seems to work in my car but some people seem to think it decreases too much of the crankcase vacuum pressure. It sure is easier and cheaper than converting to the LS6 stuff though.

 

Can someone explain the steps to do the convesion? Or if there are links, post them please. Thanks

 

Does anyone know how to do the LS6 conversion? Please list the steps or give me links on how to do it. What would be more affective...the LS6 conversion..or the mod? What would be safer? I already have the LS6 intake, if that makes any difference. Thanks

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by onebadss:
<strong> Does anyone know how to do the LS6 conversion? Please list the steps or give me links on how to do it. What would be more affective...the LS6 conversion..or the mod? What would be safer? I already have the LS6 intake, if that makes any difference. Thanks </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">heres a little write up I got from a guy on the other board.

- first off, if you have a strut tower brace...remove it now

- uncouple the following sensor plugs: MAF (mass air flow), IAT (intake air temperature), IAC (idle air control), TPS (throttle position sensor), and EGR (exhaust gas recirculate) from the lid/MAF/TB, let these hang out of the way [Note: EGR is not present on cars with the LS6 intake from the factory]

- remove lid, bellows, and MAF (if you have modified your intake these can all come off together, simply loosen the tightening clamp on the bellows to TB and pull off). Remove filter (K&N?) and place out of the way

- unsnap the plastic covered electronic lines running down both fuel rails on the intake manifold, use a screw driver to pry open the plastic clamps (two on each side). disconnect the large gray (with blue locking tabs) connector on each side too, these go from the wiring harness to the coil packs

- separate fuel injector wiring from injectors (press the metal tab into the body to clear the side tabs, then pull up) and place the wiring harness off to the side of the engine bay [Note: you will have to disconnect another sensor to a fuel valve on the driver's-side harness]

- disconnect old PCV system and remove all tubing - DISCARD (yes!)

- remove (2) 10mm bolts connecting the throttle line (and cruise control) mounting bracket to the intake manifold and move out of the way

- disconnect brake booster line at brake booster (just in front of driver's-side firewall, simply grab and PULL) - you should hear vacuum bleed off...

- there are (2) more connections at the very BACK of the intake manifold, one is the MAP (manifold absolute pressure), I have no idea what the other is for (help?)....you can get these now or wait until you have pulled the intake manifold half off before removing them (much easier, IMHO)

- loosen all (10) intake manifold bolts (8mm), you can remove the front 4 and place them out of the way. The other 6 will be trapped under engine bay skirt, pull the intake manifold off with them on and remove these bolts to a safer location when you have the clearance. THERE ARE SOME CONNECTIONS to the intake manifold remaining at this point. Most people do not own a GM fuel valve disconnect tool (I don't) so I leave this on and just swing the manifold out of the way and reset it on the driver's-side of the engine bay with the lines intake. If you can disconnect these....awesome

You now have access to the valley cover. If it is dirty I suggest you do a little cleaning before you open up your engine to contamination. Remember though, your intake ports are in the open too. TAKE EXTRA CARE to protect your engine, DO NOT let anything in these ports. I suggest ~5" sections of duct tape to seal off the ports temporarily while you work. For those that must grind on the block, THIS IS A MUST!!!

- remove the 10 bolts (10mm) securing the valley cover to the block. The lines to the knock detector should be removed from the sensors also (swing the head cap back then squeeze the base of the connector with pliers and pull up and off). Unscrew the knock detectors (carefully...), these are 16mm I believe...place in a safe location out of the way

- remove old valley cover and gasket. If you must grind you will see the boss now (front, passenger-side of the block in the engine valley). Refer to the pictures HITMAN has posted above for a good before&after understanding of what you must do. Make sure you use rags to plug the openings in the engine valley front and back too. Protect your engine from the metal shaving contamination as much as possible. A good shop vacuum handy is a major plus...stop to vacuum often. When you are done be sure to thoroughly clean the engine valley and heads.

- place the new gasket and valley cover in place...torque down engine cover bolts to 18 ft-lbs

- replace knock sensors, torque to 15 ft-lbs, reconnect PCM connections

- replace intake manifold, torque bolts to 44 n-lbs (first pass) and 89 in-lbs (second pass) in the following order:


- reconnect all removed connections to the wiring harnesses that run along the fuel rails (look above for a list)

- replace filter, lid, bellows, and MAF....tighten hose clamp, replace MAT, IAT, IAC, and TPS hookups

- cap the back of the driver's-side valve cover with the "PCV plug" you got in the package. It is a small, black, cylindrical plug and will fit where the old line came off the head. Use (2) 5/8" vacuum bypass plugs (NAPA for $1.19) to seal the passenger-side valve cover.

- locate the place on the intake manifold where the PCV connects too (passenger-side, just behind the TB on the intake manifold). Remove any piece protruding from this hole and install the new PCV pipe assey here. The PCV valve is already installed in the unit. Simply connect the brass pipe fitting coming from the valve cover to the intake manifold.

YOU ARE DONE! It may be a good idea to clean the throttle body and intake manifold air path with some of the aerosol GM Top End Cleaner (discussed above). A few applications of Sea Foam is also suggested for engines that have suffered a sever case of excessive oil consumption for awhile. DON'T FORGET TO CHANGE YOUR OIL after cleaning with either product. After that it is not a bad idea to change spark plugs either.

The pinging should disappear almost immediately. Don't expect it to be gone at mile 1....there is still residual oil in the system from the previous PCV system. It will take a couple miles for this to all move out and let you take advantage of the high-octane gas you've been purchasing!