Need to gain 4/10 in quarter, what will it take?
Other than the juice, what would be a worthwhile bolton(s) that would pick up about 4/10. I have a stock WS6 M6. Only mods thus far are LS1 MS lid, and FRA!. I ran the car last year two weeks after driving it off the dealers floor and ran 13.325 at 106mph with no mods in ideal conditions. I was still trying to figure out a decent launch technique. So, what would be the next thing to do that I would see results from. It would be nice to grab a 12sec slip. Nothing real evasive like cams/heads or poweradders. Just bolt on stuff for now. When I get some more miles on the shortblock, I may get saucy and go for a H/C packager or a S/C. What do you think about the SLP 85 MAF?
one mod....longtube headers <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
i think you might get 3-4 tenths
i think you might get 3-4 tenths
You wanna gain 4/10? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> Just throw a few cinder blocks in the back, that'll slow ya down. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> j/k
If you haven't already, take out your jack and spare, floor mats, rear cargo cover, empty most of your windshield washer fluid reservoir, run low levels of premium quality fuel, pump the front tires up to 45psi and lower the back ones down to 24-22psi. That alone should yield you a tenth or two, again, if you haven't done them already. If your miles are too low (under 7k) that won't help you too much either, these cars get noticeably quicker once fully broken in.
Other than that, long tube headers are good but expensive for the gains they'll give on a stock motor.
4.10 gears might be the answer but not before the two most important words you might ever hear when shooting for 12s....drag radials, get a set of BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials or Nitto 555R Extreme Drag Radials (or M/T ET Streets even) and you might have your 12s right there if you can drive well enough. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
As for the SLP MAF, save your money.
If you haven't already, take out your jack and spare, floor mats, rear cargo cover, empty most of your windshield washer fluid reservoir, run low levels of premium quality fuel, pump the front tires up to 45psi and lower the back ones down to 24-22psi. That alone should yield you a tenth or two, again, if you haven't done them already. If your miles are too low (under 7k) that won't help you too much either, these cars get noticeably quicker once fully broken in.
Other than that, long tube headers are good but expensive for the gains they'll give on a stock motor.
4.10 gears might be the answer but not before the two most important words you might ever hear when shooting for 12s....drag radials, get a set of BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials or Nitto 555R Extreme Drag Radials (or M/T ET Streets even) and you might have your 12s right there if you can drive well enough. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
As for the SLP MAF, save your money.
Listen to LS1LT1's advice. He is exactly right. You should do the Throttle body bump stop mod and maybe you should consider ported MAF ends since you have an M6. The MAF ends are inexpensive and some M6's really like them. Don't waste your money on an aftermarket MAF. But DO remove the screen on your stock MAF. LS1's get faster as they break in. You should be in the 12's with nothing more than drag radials and practice. By the way, what was your 60' time on that 13.2 run?
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4.10's and ET Streets. Keep the launches no HIGHER than 3500 rpm's. Best wishes. WJ. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Headers would void the warranty, but exhaust didn't, I Borla. Also, get rid of all extra weight like mentioned, you will be very surprised. K&N Filter and a whisper lid might help do the trick with practice. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Bounce?:
<strong> Most headers dont void the warrenty. I know the SLP's wont. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It all depends, if it's emissions related and emissions devices were moved/altered/removed it will.
If the car is also lowered and you slammed the headers into something (speed bump etc.) that then broke, but only broke as a result of headers being on there, it might not get covered.
But if you have long tubes and your drivers seat power motor goes out, you'll obviously still be covered for that. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
<strong> Most headers dont void the warrenty. I know the SLP's wont. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It all depends, if it's emissions related and emissions devices were moved/altered/removed it will.
If the car is also lowered and you slammed the headers into something (speed bump etc.) that then broke, but only broke as a result of headers being on there, it might not get covered.
But if you have long tubes and your drivers seat power motor goes out, you'll obviously still be covered for that. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Well, I ordered the MAF ends from Thunder Racing today and am thinking about descreening the stock MAF this weekend. Ill post me results after the day at the track on 2/22. Thanks for the help.
My freind has a 02 WS6, it averaged 13.3s stock. we put a dynomouth exhaust on it, FTRA (we modified the airbox a little to seal it up better), descreened MAF, nittos and a lou's short stick. After that it ran a best of 12.46@111.73 w/ a 1.88 60', and averaged 12.5s all at 111mph. This was with 8000 miles on it.
The nittos alone should get you in the 12s, 3 tenths in the first 60' is worth about 5-6 tenths in the 1/4.
Jon
The nittos alone should get you in the 12s, 3 tenths in the first 60' is worth about 5-6 tenths in the 1/4.
Jon
Thanks for the ideas! the breakdown of the 13.325 run is as follows: 2.138 60'/5.759 330'/8.807 @ 82.00mph 8th/ 13.325 @ 106.3. I specifically remember having a run with traps in the 107 mph range. Most traps were in the 105-107 area. This was with a fairly new car and my first time behind the wheel of a 6sp LS1. I have extensive experience launching classic iron with 4sp, but that technique didnt help much. Since then the car has been modded as mentioned above and now has 6200mi. It feels considerably quicker and stronger that it did new, so I feel I should be able to at least match my time if the weather is similar. Im driving over 2 hours to the strip and dont want to try the Nitto on the interstate at 75+mph. But, I plan on getting an extra set of rims for this reason. Im wanting to add a couple of mods that can be returned to stock if needed. I really want to protect my warranty as long as I can. Can someone explain the throttle bump stop mod? Who carries the ported MAF ends? I guess my goal is to create a ligitamate 12sec daily STREET car on as much stock parts as possible. or as little major mods as possible. Im afraid headers, new rear ends, and such will void my warranty. However, speed is an addiction and I usually like to take chances, so I anticipate myself making some major mods like headers, heads, cam in another year or so. Thank alot friends for the help.




