ASP pulley problem ( HELP)
ASP pulley problem ( HELP) I got my ASP pulley in and I tried to install it today. The problem actually isn't with trying to get the old pulley off. That's a done deal. My problem is getting the new one on. I have/had a tourqe wrench that went to 250 ft/lbs, it clicked, but there is still 1/8th of an inch that the pulley still needs to go on. The bolt is not cross threaded or anything, it just won't get any tighter. Does anyone have any suggestion's on what i might be doing wrong or what might be wrong <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> I have tried both a cheater pipe to try and tighten it and the torque wrench and even greased the end of the crank to see if would slide on easier and it wont budge.
<small>[ February 28, 2003, 07:06 PM: Message edited by: BottomsUp ]</small>
<small>[ February 28, 2003, 07:06 PM: Message edited by: BottomsUp ]</small>
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 709
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From: DFW, Texas
Re: ASP pulley problem ( HELP) how are you determining that it is an 1/8" from being all the way on?
the part that slides over the crank seats on the lower cam gear. 250ftlbs will easily get it there.
the part that slides over the crank seats on the lower cam gear. 250ftlbs will easily get it there.
Re: ASP pulley problem ( HELP) I would stop now before you do something like strip out your crank threads or break the head off the bolt <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,031
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From: Bailey, Co
Re: ASP pulley problem ( HELP) The pullies do not fit *completely* flush with the block. There WILL be a gap between them. Now that you mention it it probably is about an 1/8th in. Its on there bro! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
<small>[ February 28, 2003, 08:47 PM: Message edited by: MOBE ]</small>
<small>[ February 28, 2003, 08:47 PM: Message edited by: MOBE ]</small>
Re: ASP pulley problem ( HELP) I had thought the same thing untill I compared the old pulley to the new pulley. the old pulley had about 1/8 of an inch(if I remember correctly)of an area out side the seal that had some rust on it and the rest that was inside the seal was cleaner so I could tell how far the pulley was from the seal. I would under the car and see if the new pulley is sitting as far from the seal as the old one, I beleve that's what I did. Better yet ask some one who has installed many of ASP pulley's. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
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Re: ASP pulley problem ( HELP) If you find it is not all the way on and you have torqued it that much then you probably didn't lubricate it properly and it has galled to the shaft. You need to lub the OD and ID of the pulley hub and the bolt contact surface with chassis lub (not wheel bearing lub).
Re: ASP pulley problem ( HELP) My brother and i got it on i was just worried seeing that it wasnt flush against the block. But i put the belts on and they seem to on and tracking ok.
Thanks again for everyones help. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Thanks again for everyones help. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Re: ASP pulley problem ( HELP) Your balancer is probubly installed correctly. Its really an easy job.
In case your still a little worried, this is out of my Haynes manuel for 1993 - 2000 F-bodies:
"Before the new crankshaft bolt is installed and tightened, the balancer must be measured for proper installation -
when properly installed, the balancer hub should extend 3/32 to 11/64-inch past the crankshaft snout"
The ecential thing is to MAKE SURE the crank bolt is TIGHT!!! In the Haynes manuel they put the raitings for tightening the new bolt as follows:
"Step one (use old bolt)...........240 ft/lbs
Step two (use new bolt)...........37 ft/lbs
Step three (use new bolt).........Turn an additional 140 degrees"
Step one (old bolt)gets the ballancer on, step two (new bolt) snugs up the new bolt, and step three stretches the bolt to lock it in (the bolts are Torque-to-Yield). The 140 degrees is almost impossible to do. Even with a long enough pipe on the end of a wrench, the clutch will slip before you turn the bolt that far (I was told that 140 degrees is something lik 550 ft/lbs or more <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> ). Make sure you put some locktight on the bolt and then just keep turning untill the clutch slips.
I have heard of people not getting the bolt tight and over time it will come loose and the ballancer will fall off while they are racing <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> .
Chris
In case your still a little worried, this is out of my Haynes manuel for 1993 - 2000 F-bodies:
"Before the new crankshaft bolt is installed and tightened, the balancer must be measured for proper installation -
when properly installed, the balancer hub should extend 3/32 to 11/64-inch past the crankshaft snout"
The ecential thing is to MAKE SURE the crank bolt is TIGHT!!! In the Haynes manuel they put the raitings for tightening the new bolt as follows:
"Step one (use old bolt)...........240 ft/lbs
Step two (use new bolt)...........37 ft/lbs
Step three (use new bolt).........Turn an additional 140 degrees"
Step one (old bolt)gets the ballancer on, step two (new bolt) snugs up the new bolt, and step three stretches the bolt to lock it in (the bolts are Torque-to-Yield). The 140 degrees is almost impossible to do. Even with a long enough pipe on the end of a wrench, the clutch will slip before you turn the bolt that far (I was told that 140 degrees is something lik 550 ft/lbs or more <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> ). Make sure you put some locktight on the bolt and then just keep turning untill the clutch slips.
I have heard of people not getting the bolt tight and over time it will come loose and the ballancer will fall off while they are racing <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> .
Chris
