SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

I just had to take off my headers and put them back on and one of the bolts got Really tight like halfway thru. Can I keep on tightning it or do I need a new bolt or what is it ???

Do auto parts stores sell single header bolts ???

Thanks

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

You should back that thing out pronto. You don't want to have to heli-coil the head or even use an easy out on it if you don't absolutely have to. What you are most likely doing is cross threading the bolt.

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

Well as soon as the bolt was getting really hard on me I backed out.
Should I buy a new bolt ?? Thats why I was asking if they sell them individualy.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

I think you should remove the bolt and use a "bottom tap". It's like a normal tap with a snub nose on it. Did you buff off the factory loctite from the threads? Did you use a bit of anti-sieze when re-installing them?

Any bolt with the same threads and length will work, get one from a hardware store. Bring an old bolt in and screw it into a nut, then cross reference the nut size to find the right bolt.

01formula6

iTrader: (7)

By any chance was this the back bolt on the drivers side? If so, mine does not thread all the way in either, and I believe I've read others have this problem as well. I just used a few washers on that bolt so it can be tightened down all the way.

rgaynor85

i had the issue with the rear passenger side bolt i also did the washers to make it be able to be tightened. i one day will run a tap thu it and smooth it. sucks when u get it in it feels normal for the first 60% then all of a sudden it gets real hard for 10% and then u cant go anymore.

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

I had to do the same thing on my buddy's car after he crossthreaded the rear header bolt on the passenger side . Lot of help he was!

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

Its the one before the last bolt and yes its on the drivers side.

Chris Gage

iTrader: (18)

I had the same problem

01formula6

iTrader: (7)

If you can thread it in halfway before it stops, then I'd just get some washers and put it back together.

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

I just went to the hardware store and got a new bolt..... I went ahead and screwed it in like that....


Thanks for all the help.....

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

spend the money on the header studs people. Yeah it is 80 bucks, but you can thread the rear most and front most stud in, hang the gasket, and then the header, does not get any easier, plus you will not have these cross thread issues. they look better, and offer more even clamping, do not for get antiseize.

to the subject, orange's suggestion would yield the best results for your situation, I would also get a new bolt or rethread that one.

11SECSS

iTrader: (199)

If you take your time to thread all them in slowly they will go ,but if you tighten say 3 or 4 all the way in they you might be making the header twist or the bolt holes not getting aligned up right. I have had to use oil on my header bolts when putting them in and having someone hold the header up while I tighten the bolts down by hand ---- not impact.

Zymosis

iTrader: (7)

Same here man...

blind527

iTrader: (8)

I have 2 crossthread bolt holes on the passenger side. The 2 last ones are. One has a bolt in it, the other does not...Do you guys recommend me removing the passenger side header, and tapping it, and just reusing the ARP bolts for it, or will they not be as tight? Does anyone know what size tap I should use? The leak sounds like ****, and I now have nitrous, and want the most accurate A/F ratio and the best gas mileage. Suggestions? Tap it?

I just want the A/F to be right on when I spray a 150 shot.

BobbyWS6

Getting the header studs as daryl2cb suggested would be the best all the best if you were starting your mod. You should get a new bolt and a few washers (1 lock washer) to start with. If you forced that bolt in 10% like you said then it is possibly stretched already. If you continue to force it in, it might break off. At that time your nuts will draw up into your neck and you will hate yourself for not making a quick trip to tuckers! TheBlurLS1 is right on when he suggested you take a tap and clean out the threads. Just bring the bolt with you and hand it over to the nice person with the orange vest on and ask them what size you need. spray a little WD40 (one small squirt) as a cutting fluid and gently with your hands start the tap.... this is not a race, take your time. I think you understand. I dont mean to lecture, I am just trying to save you from trying to get done with a project that is already hard!

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Take the bolts out. Get a new bolt with same thrads, grind down the threads on 2 sides then clean them up to make a thread chaser. Screw that in and out a few times then blow out the old loctite from the factory. You can use a tap which would probably be better. No need to tap them bigger untill you're sure they're fucked up.

blind527

iTrader: (8)

What size tap do I use for the bolt hole? I have ARP header bolts.

Ice Knight

iTrader: (9)

I Think I might have sross threaded my rear driver side header bolt..

I just put some washers under it for the while...and anti seize...

Not looking foward to the possible retapping or whatever (eventually)

blind527

iTrader: (8)

Ok, so today I unbolted the passenger side header, and removed the spark plugs, and unbolted the header from the y-pipe. After that time, I tried fitting a tap in there with no luck. I need to see if I can jack up the passenger side of the engine more to give me better clearance, as I can not take out the whole passenger side header *I wish I could*. If I can't tap the 2 crossthreaded holes, do you guys suggest that I fit a couple washers on them? Both of them go in about half way then stop, and I think one may even go in totally crooked.