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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 09:51 PM
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Default pulley removal

Looking through the LS1Howto.com guide to get a pulley off, why do you need to only pull the bolt out little by little. Why can't you just take the bolt out and pull off the pulley.
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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Never mind I think it is only because they are useing a puller and need something for the puller to push against.
Thanks for the help
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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 10:08 PM
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3 armed pulley.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 01:24 AM
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can u get one off without a puller?
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 10:28 AM
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Nope.
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 10:30 AM
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sounds like were talking about the crank pulley, i dont think there's any other way then the 3 arm puller available for rent from your local auto store. and the reason its little by little is due to the friction being so great when pulling it off the crank. -g
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Old Jun 10, 2006 | 01:28 PM
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You can "rent" a puller from an autparts store, then they give you all your money back after you get done with it. It should have 3 arms to grab the tabs on the inside spokes of the pulley, then the center screw will push on the crank bolt. I'd recommend using the "longer bolt" to push against so you'll have as much meat screwed into the treaads as possible.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 03:13 AM
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Ok I got the damn thing off finally. Had to go get the puller It never "popped" it fought me the entire way. Now getting it back on is an entirely different story. The 5/8 bolts that the Home Depot and Ace carry by my house are not the right threads and the ones that are the right threads stop at 1/2. I tried the puller installer tool and not even that thing can reach. I am starting to get a little ticked. Day 2 without a car
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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Take your stock bolt to the hardware store and get one thats a tad bit longer and some washer to go with it. You can start the pulley with that bolt and suck it on untill the bolt is bottomed out. After this, you can use the stock bolt to suck it all the way on. After this, insert the new bolt, then tighten the rest of the way.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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I have been to Home Depot, Ace and Lows and the "right" bolts all have the wrong threads. What is the bolt called that I need?
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1Lust
I have been to Home Depot, Ace and Lows and the "right" bolts all have the wrong threads. What is the bolt called that I need?
They have got to have one around there somewhere. Check out LS1howto.com, they might have the bolt listed in the camswap writeup.

The bolt will be metric. Here's a pic of the one I have, but its a BIT too long. They sell one that's right in between these two as far as length goes.


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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 05:18 PM
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When I don't have the correct installer for a crank pulley I use a heat gun to heat the crank pulley and then uses a rubber mallet to get the pulley far enough on the snout of the crank to use the bolt.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SPEEDYws6
When I don't have the correct installer for a crank pulley I use a heat gun to heat the crank pulley and then uses a rubber mallet to get the pulley far enough on the snout of the crank to use the bolt.
I like to toss mine in the oven on 300* or so for about 20 minutes, or untill golden brown.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:16 AM
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The bolt is 16mmX2mm. You could have used a thread pitch gauge to figure this out, but if you're doing work this involved on you motor you should have already known the threads were metric not SAE. When removing the pulley you can put a LARGE allen head cap screw with a couple of big washers in the crank where you removed the OEM bolt. This gives the puller rod something to buck up against and it also helps to force the puller rod to be self-centering.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 06:30 PM
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I think I got it now, I just figured the bolt would be SAE considering I used a 15/16 socket to get it OFF! My mistake.

Has anyone had any type of a problem with over heating since the water pump isn't turning as much as it used to. Anyone from like the southwest specifically, or where temperatures can get over 100 degrees?
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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Stock is a 24mm socket. ARP is a 27mm.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 06:35 PM
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One of the sponsors sells the longer bolt, just can't remember who. You can also use the ARP bolt without the washer.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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don't bother with the longer bolt, get a socket that fits inside the crank pulley center hole and seat the centerof the puller over that.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 06:45 PM
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The longer bolt is to put the new pully on, not pull the old one off.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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I got it back on, finally. No one around here carries a 16mmX2mm that is over 4 inches long. But I finally managed to get it on with a few modifications to a harmonic balancer installation tool from auto zone. This thing better be worth it I am just a bit paranoid about the slower turning water pump and Arizona summer temperatures.
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