How hard is it to install headers? (hookers or Macs) Is it from the bottom and what should come off to make it easier?

Thanks guys

 

glad you asked before you dove into this. Well, it may be easy both ways it just depends on who you talk to.I personally like the top install. What I did was first jacked the car up and take the exhaust manifold to y-pipe bolts off.Be very careful hereyou cold break these studs very easily so use caution and lots of lube <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Second I went and went back to the top, and covered the fenders and front cowl, if you dont by the time you are done you could have a front end thet looks like you went through a corn field. Next I then took off the egr hose connected to the manifold, then i took off the hoses connecting the valve covers to the firewall on both sides. The fuel line can be disconnected with the right tool. Use a fuel line removal tool, u can get them in a set of 5, do not try to use anything else you could end up breaking this, very costly <img border="0" alt="[cry]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> . with the hoses out of the way take the covers off, this may require taking two of the coil packs off. dont damage these either, they are pricey. You can use the cover gaskets upto three times without replacing them ( well, for me anyway) once you get those off, you should have full access to them. the back bolt of the passenger side is a little tight, but is still accessible. Depending on what type of gasket you get you will need to look very carefully...they go on one way only!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Once the headers are on test to make sure the rest of the exhaust fits. If not you will have a loud exhaust and could possibly burn some valves. Reverse the steps when your done. Good luck. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

Well, if I remember correctly, and I DO... The install from the top was not that easy. And the driverside was put in from the bottom. I should know! Thats the one I dropped the bolt down in between the primaries. Still not sure how I managed that one. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" />


...Damn! I thought I had lived that one down. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

<small>[ March 26, 2003, 01:47 PM: Message edited by: MOBE ]</small>

 

Thanks for the feedback fellas. I am in the process of choosing between the hooker and mac. Long tube that is. Which is less of a headache when it comes to sensor extensions and better quality.

 

I think im personally gonna go with the Macs. 1 for the price, 2 for the cats which ive heard from MTI that they flow very well, 3 easy install. Ive found a place that sales them for $689 for the headers and y-pipe and cats. Has anyone found any cheaper prices?

 

The MAC's are a pretty good choice. They were a very easy install even for me and I'm not much of an expert at all. Removing the fuel lines and all that crap is totally unnecessary. I removed the Coil packs and that was about it. All I had were jackstands, and they went in from the bottom very easy. Also, I had no problems with the O2 Sensor connections. Good Luck.

jlrz28: LS1 Speed sells the MAC's with off road y-pipe for $500. I've heard very bad things about their cats. LS1 Speed sells a pair of Random Tech cats for $130. Why pay more when you can get better CAT's for less?

 

I didn't even remove the coil packs for the Hooker Long tubes. Took me about 6.5 hours oing from underneath. Front end was on a set of Rhino ramps, the rear on jack stands. Just remove the steering arm, oil filter, oil diverter and spark plugs on the driver's side, nothing on the passenger side. Slides right in. Just take your time, and it's a piece of cake. Oh, an air ratchet will save you a bunch of time. Good excuse to buy a compressor if you don't have one already. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MOBE:
<strong> Well, if I remember correctly, and I DO... The install from the top was not that easy. And the driverside was put in from the bottom. I should know! Thats the one I dropped the bolt down in between the primaries. Still not sure how I managed that one. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" />


...Damn! I thought I had lived that one down. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well, I pulled it out from the top (after you dropped the bolt) removed the bolt, then shoved the header back down from the top after I had taken the bolt out. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />

So "I" installed the drivers side from the top. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

PPCs install from the bottom on both sides. No need to remove anything besides the old manifolds and just disconnecting the AIR & EGR tubes from the manifolds. And, the oil filter.

Just an FYI for ya....

Gordon
www.provenperformanceconcepts.com

<img src="http://www.provenperformanceconcepts.com/PPC%20BANNER%20468x60.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.provenperformanceconcepts.com/Headers111002%20001aMED-logo.jpg" alt=" - " />

 

Thanks again for your time and input guys. I may be leaning towards the hookers because I see they come with all the gaskets and bolts needed. Where as the macs require the installation kit to be ordered.

 

If you go in from the bottom you won't have to take the valve covers off, or any of the hoses and fuel lines (PITA and unnecessary). You will need to move the pass. side coilpacks, but not the driverside.

For Hooker LTs you will need to jack the car up pretty high, so you can slip the headers in. You will have to remove the "oil diverter plate" (directly above the filter) and most likely the steering shaft, although, I've heard some say they didn't have to (I did on both Hooker installs I've done).

 

Well, on Mac's, you can go in from the top. I removed the coil packs and valve covers.(although each car is different)

Thanks to MOBE, I had to install my drivers side twice since he seems to have butter fingers and dropped a header bolt in the collector.
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

I'm still paying him back for that one. <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />

 

You don't want to use the Hooker paper gaskets. Either reuse your old metal gaskets or buy some new ones from the dealer. On the bolts, get you some stage 8 locking header bolts from a sponsor such as Thunder Racing. Of the stories I have heard of broken header bolts, they have all been when someone reused the stock bolts.

Make sure to use ANTI-SIEZE on the header bolts!

 

Stock bolts are ok, but not the best. Its the bolts that come with the Hooker LTs you want to stay away from. I agree though, get some Stage 8 bolts. And like minivette said, get you some new metal gaskets, from Thunder or somewhere. You will also want to get a new EGR gasket, and 4 AIR gaskets, as you will want/need to fab up some restrictor plate for the AIR check valves.

Anti-sieze is your friend! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

I would also recommend you have the appropriately sized tap to clean out all the header bolt holes. You don't want to over-torque the header bolts into your aluminum heads, and this could happen if the holes are dirty (old anti-sieze).

I installed Macs myself: Drivers went in easy from top, but I could not seems to get the passenger size in from the top. (All coil packs removed). I also removed the valve cover from the passenger size, but it would not go in from the top. I removed the starter, and cut away small piece of alumunim casting on engine block (you'll know exactly where it is if you take this route). It then slid right in. Some guys jack there engine up afte removing the motor mount bolts, but I did not want to do that....

Good luck.

Tommy <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

I'm in the middle of a MAC install myself. They won't go in from the bottom or top. Coil pacs off as well as the valve covers, not even close to going in. From the bottom, I man have to remove the motor mount bolts to get them in but I'm trying to avoid that.

 

Undid the passenger motor mount and jacked up the motor, slid right in the top. Now the driver side is another story......


</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by gillbot:
<strong> I'm in the middle of a MAC install myself. They won't go in from the bottom or top. Coil pacs off as well as the valve covers, not even close to going in. From the bottom, I man have to remove the motor mount bolts to get them in but I'm trying to avoid that. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">