Okay, I have searched for almost everything that I possibly could on this board and others and have decided that my goal is to get MAC mid-length headers, the ORY and some Random Tech cats to have put on the ORY (darn emissions!!) I found a lot of info on here, and what I want to know now is......

I have never heard an LS1 that had headers (at least not when I knew what I was hearing <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> )and want to know how much louder/better sounding will it be? than a basically stock car with the Loudmouth. I figure the cats will kill most of the rasp issues, and the Loudmouth won't stop much, so how much louder will it be?? I want a LOUD friggin car <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Also, I know you are suppose to be able to install them yourself, but I would rather leave it to a prof or someone who has done it before, how much should it cost??

One final question...I live in Northwest IN there any good shops around here taht would really know what they are doing?

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I have MAC's with Random Tech Cats in the Y-Pipe. They definately take care of the rasp, and cut down on the terrible smell. My exhaust got much louder after I put the headers on. Without the CAT's, it was loud as hell, but sounded like ****. The CATS made it sound awesome. It is still very loud, but doesn't sound like ****. I highly recommend the combination that you are talking about. I love it. It sounds badass and I really felt the power.

I believe that LS1 Speed is located around Chicago, but do it yourself. It is not worth paying money, when it is such a simple task (Especially midlengths). I really don't know all that much about cars, and my brother and I did it in a couple of days (Working in the evenings). Believe me, when its over, you will be glad you did. Just read up a little on the install and take it slow. Trust me, its not hard at all. When you're done, take it to an exhaust shop and have the CAT's welded in. Plus, it makes you feel really good when you're done. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Thanks for the info on the setup. I will hopefully (crossing fingers) be able to do that this summer but just can't afford it yet. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

If/when I buy them I will do it myself now that I think about it, I had considered the method you reccomended before...If I just installed the ORY and then drove to a shop to have them weld the cats in would I trip an engine code for no O2 sensors or sims?? If so, would the problem (and code?) go away when I got the cats put in and all was fine??

BTW....I clicked the link in your sig your name Nate? That is my name.....and where in Indiana are you from?

Anybody else with opinions on this setup or anything at all similar I'll take comments/opinions.

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<small>[ April 09, 2003, 11:30 AM: Message edited by: blkZ28spt ]</small>

 

Yep, that's my name. I live in Petersburg, which is about a hour north of Evansville in Southwest IN.

As for tripping a code. Yes, the Service Engine Light is supposed to come on when you don't have CATS, however my car didn't for some crazy reason. I just plugged in all four O2 Sensors and drove it about 15 miles to the exhaust shop and never threw any codes. But you are supposed to throw a code when you don't have the cats in. It doesn't hurt anything at all though. All it is doing is telling you that you don't have any CATS. After you get the CATs put in, just erase the trouble code and you should be good to go. (Providing your car doesn't be weird like mine and not throw a code)
Good Luck!

 

Anybody else with opinions?

How do you go about erasing the trouble codes when you do not have (or know anybody that has) any kind of a handheld programmer? Would that then require a trip to a dealer/service shop?

I would think that once the cats were back on and all the readings were okay it (the code/light)would go off? Is that true or would it stay?

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I will let you in on a secret that has cost me a lot of additional money and time.....
I started with Hooker shorties, custom y-pipe w/ RT cats,and LM. Sounded like stock w/ a LM (which I started out with). Decided to go with Mac's w/ their ORP and welded in the RT cats and kept the LM. I did this route because I was concerned about clearance because I have a lowered vert. The system sounded good but still had the 2200 rpm drone and was constantly scraping the drivers side cat and pipe.
Once I decided to go with a H/C setup I knew I needed LT's and ditch the cats. Well this presented a new situation with running LT's w/o cats thru the LM. I had heard it on another car and it sounded like shitola. So I decided to go with Hooker's catback with this system. So, now I have Jet Hot LT's, 3" Hooker ORP, and Hooker catback. In a word.....awesome! I now have MORE clearance and the sound is INCREDIBLE! I thought the LM route was kinda cool because it was loud. But believe me there is difference between "truck" loud and "tuned" loud. Nice rumble at idle and cruise(I can actually carry on a conversation now with the top down) and freakin' roars at WOT. Now here is the best part...check out the price of this system. Jet Hot Lt's....$565 coated. Hooker ORP...$160. Hooker Catback...$235. Compared to Mac's at $500 coated. Mac ORP...$150. RT cats...$270 LM.....$300. Uh...no brainer and much more bang for the buck. Hopefully I am saving you some time and money.
Good Luck.

 

) </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BLUEBYU:
<strong> I will let you in on a secret that has cost me a lot of additional money and time.....
I started with Hooker shorties, custom y-pipe w/ RT cats,and LM. Sounded like stock w/ a LM (which I started out with). Decided to go with Mac's w/ their ORP and welded in the RT cats and kept the LM. I did this route because I was concerned about clearance because I have a lowered vert. The system sounded good but still had the 2200 rpm drone and was constantly scraping the drivers side cat and pipe.
Once I decided to go with a H/C setup I knew I needed LT's and ditch the cats. Well this presented a new situation with running LT's w/o cats thru the LM. I had heard it on another car and it sounded like shitola. So I decided to go with Hooker's catback with this system. So, now I have Jet Hot LT's, 3" Hooker ORP, and Hooker catback. In a word.....awesome! I now have MORE clearance and the sound is INCREDIBLE! I thought the LM route was kinda cool because it was loud. But believe me there is difference between "truck" loud and "tuned" loud. Nice rumble at idle and cruise(I can actually carry on a conversation now with the top down) and freakin' roars at WOT. Now here is the best part...check out the price of this system. Jet Hot Lt's....$565 coated. Hooker ORP...$160. Hooker Catback...$235. Compared to Mac's at $500 coated. Mac ORP...$150. RT cats...$270 LM.....$300. Uh...no brainer and much more bang for the buck. Hopefully I am saving you some time and money.
Good Luck. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A few problems with that....I already have the Loudmouth so no need to count that price (though i am sure i could sell it for decent $$) and second I want/need cats because we have emissions testing in my county ( <img border="0" alt="[shoot]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" /> emissions). Also, I don't plan on getting the Macs coated (as a college student, I am pushing it to get headers at all <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> ) How much better to get them coated? I am happy that you said the Macs/RT cats/Loudmouth sounded good though even if it could be better cause that is still my cheapest way, and they are easier to install than LT I am sure. But thank you for your opinion!

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No problem.