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How much should I charge for a pulley install tool?

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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 02:28 PM
  #21  
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^^^ That's good insight. People spend hundreds per month on payments and insurance and won't spend jack to fix/modify their rides correctly.

I may just get some longer bolts and sell 'em for $4

******************************************


Brandon Boomhauer - The wires (if 8mm Taylor -what I run- any color) can be had for $85 with boots that will need to be crimped. The crimp tool is about $6.

So you have a complete kit with the type/color wires you choose for $146 including color instructions and polished brackets!!! There are (2) tools that would make the install much easier, a 90 degree drill attachment and a windshield wiper arm puller $30 total. So for $175 you have a 100% complete kit with everything you need to do a high quality job. Compare it to any other kit on the market....

Some guys will want the 90 degree boots to run between the headers and heads for the hidden look, and some will want the straight style to stick out like the factory ones. You can set the amount of slop (if you want custom routing) when you do the cut/crimp. ~Joshua
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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Yeah, I know what they need to work. I was the person to tell you about the 90* boots and how to make them work. In fact I was the first person on here do such a thing. If you actually had tried 90* boots you would see how they can not work.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon Boomhauer
Yeah, I know what they need to work. I was the person to tell you about the 90* boots and how to make them work. In fact I was the first person on here do such a thing. If you actually had tried 90* boots you would see how they can not work.
I remember that now!


I'm actually running 90 degree boots now (until last week when I started the turbo install)... The wires used the 90 from the cylinder behind it to "hook" it and keep it away from the headers. I also had a copper wire that I used the keep them bundled. The whole bundle exits the back and runs up the firewall to the coil bricks.

I have to change to straight boots now, because the twin turbo manifolds have nowhere near the clearance between the heads that my old Hooker longtubes had.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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I like 618Hawk's tool better than the one shown in this thread. I just bought a loinget bolt & washer and use that. for the right price I would buy 618Hawk's tool also.

I did make a lot of my own tools for cam installs.
To hold the pully still

Valvespring tool.

It needed a better "Threaded rod".
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 02:53 PM
  #25  
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Do you have apic of the tool you plan to sell?
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FIREHAWK#608
... People spend hundreds per month on payments and insurance and won't spend jack to fix/modify their rides correctly... ~Joshua
Ain't that the truth. Never skimp on tools! I readily payed 25$ for Glen's pulley tool just for the peace of mind. Well worth it. I also bought the Crane spring tool (it cost over $100) and ARP head studs. I have this irrational fear of broken bolts and stripped threads.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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That valvespring tool actually kind of sucked. I used an Advanced Auto Tool for most ot the springs. The one I mad for the rears.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by davered00ss
I like 618Hawk's tool better than the one shown in this thread.
Explain why and go into detail.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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You could sell EGR/AIR blockoff kits. It could come with all the plates you need AND the 1-3/8" adjustable freeze plug as well. If people have to wait for plates to come in, they might as well get the freeze plug from you too.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
You could sell EGR/AIR blockoff kits. It could come with all the plates you need AND the 1-3/8" adjustable freeze plug as well. If people have to wait for plates to come in, they might as well get the freeze plug from you too.
Great Idea!!!
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 05:55 PM
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I bought the pulley install tool from 2xls1 and LOVE it!!!! Quicksilverado used it 3 times in the last week.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Explain why and go into detail.
First off, not to trash your tool. I just use a longer bolt. But the Hawk tool just looks like a higher quality piece. It is a longer bolt, not a piece of threaded rod. The hand hold slip over piece looks like it would help. Looks like he put a lot of time and effort into it. I might actually try his tool. Yours, I think I would keep my longer bolt. But I also would not pay $30 for his. Maybe $20. Just my $0.02
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 05:57 PM
  #33  
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I haven't tried it, but I heard the ARP bolt without the washer works too.
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Old Jul 20, 2006 | 06:15 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by davered00ss
...I just use a longer bolt...
The longer bolt, of course, doesn't work the same way as the threaded rod. I bought the threaded rod for the very reason it was created... with the threaded rod, you don't drive the pulley on at the same time you are threading the rod into the crank. The longer bolt works great and obviously accomplishes the task but it doesn't work the same way. I'm more comfortable with the physics of the threaded rod. But... to each his own.
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 03:22 AM
  #35  
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Just thought I would share a bit of info on my dampner install tool.

I feel it works rather well. And all those that have used it agree.
Here are a few reasons why.
With the threaded pusher section it acts as a handle to help hold the pulley in position, due to the large area washer at the bottom is the same diameter as the recessed area with in the dampner.

There are fewer moving parts to deal with, no loose washer or spacers.
Once tool and dampner are in place there is plenty of room to use a wrench to crank it on. Vs trying to get a wrench down inside of the dampner. Which I 1st noted problems with the 1st time I tryed a section of all thread, with just a nut and washer.
I can say, I have never used a longer bolt to push it on but have heard nothing but bad results. Due to bolts being to short and causing damage to the first few threads.
Some may say that my washer is a cheap way to go but if I were to add a thrust bearing, the cost would be much more. For something that would not help that much more, and appears not to be a issue.

I have looked the the autozone unit and it did not work with the LS1. At least the kit from my local store.

Here is the orginal thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/391883-new-crank-dampener-installation-tool-pics.html
Sorry if I stepped on any toes not asking to sell prior to, my fault. But if you look at my trader rating you will see all are happy.

Chris



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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 09:10 AM
  #36  
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^^^ That does look like a very nice tool. If the user simply lubes the washer on the contact surfaces with light grease that should take care of any friction.

If any body wants to add a neat tool to my site they're more than welcome and you can drop ship it to customers.

If somebody has a tool that they want listed feel free to call or Pm. 678/492/6843 ~Joshua
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 09:23 AM
  #37  
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Thanks Josh
As it is I have even been supplying a small packet of high quality grease to go along with the tool. Which is applied between the pusher section and the thrust washer. Like I said no problems so far.

Might take you up on your site.................

Chris
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 09:36 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 618HAWK
Thanks Josh
As it is I have even been supplying a small packet of high quality grease to go along with the tool. Which is applied between the pusher section and the thrust washer. Like I said no problems so far.

Might take you up on your site.................

Chris
Call me anytime. ~Joshua
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