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Headers Vs. Stall

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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 06:41 PM
  #21  
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A converter will net you better times at the track over headers.(if racing is your thing)
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 06:50 PM
  #22  
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Stall that beech first. You will gain more with a stall, with traction, than you will get with LTs. Yeah, there' s no denying the sounds will be A LOT better with LTs, but, if you want gain, your stall is a better bet.

Just remember, go big or go home.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 08:42 PM
  #23  
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My plan:
1.Nitrous....100 dry shot...100 hp = 1 sec quicker
2.Stall...3800 plus cooler and tune = 1/2 sec quicker
3.headers....pacesetters uncoated with y pipe.= 3/10 tenths quicker

Maximum go for least dough at each writing of the check.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 11:16 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cha1nz1535
im definitley leaning more towards a stall now...keep the input coming guys
dont think you are just going to spend $600 then, start thinking more around $1200 for everything
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 11:17 PM
  #25  
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yeah im still kind of undecided because of how much it will cost to get a tc up a running...
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 11:57 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by rgk615214
what exactly is a stall?? I'ver heard about them on several threads and done searches but what exactly is it and what does it do???

As far as your question, if a stall is just a mod to up horses, i'd definitely go with headers because the sound of the car is a world of difference.

A ''stall'' is a high performance torque converter for automatic transmissions
search HADAA! danielson
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 12:01 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Cop Car
you need more than $600 for either one.

if you get a stall you need to have it installed and for best results should have it tuned

if you get LTs you will have to install them, then get at least a y pipe (my brothers car had pacesetters, a y pipe and then stock catback on it and it sounded nice) if not getting a whole cat back or true dual set up, then you need to tune out your front O2 sensors and maybe even your EGR

my suggestion would be coated pacesetters, TSP y pipe and stock catback, get a tune to fix your O2s and enjoy your slightly faster better sounding car.

If you tune out the front o2's your car will not run at all

I think you meant the rears
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 12:39 AM
  #28  
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Stall. Period.

It dropped 6 tenths off my ET. Headers can't do that.
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 02:16 AM
  #29  
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You Will Need More then $600 for a Nice Set of Good Headers.. Also you Highly Recommend $500 Tune..

As for the TC you will See More of a Notice off The Line & From a ROLL No Dout. Also the Coast of Tuning you will Need. Will Coast About $300 LESS

My VOTE is go With the STALL baby!!
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 11:34 AM
  #30  
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3600 vig. no doubt best thing you can do to your car but definatly headers after that.... be prepared to burn rubber!-Invest in a tran cooler also cars no good without a transmission..
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 12:00 PM
  #31  
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In the end which will cost less...for the tune i was going to buy the basic gm tune from speed inc for $150 and that will work for both the headers and the stall
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 12:13 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Cop Car
you need more than $600 for either one.

if you get a stall you need to have it installed and for best results should have it tuned

if you get LTs you will have to install them, then get at least a y pipe (my brothers car had pacesetters, a y pipe and then stock catback on it and it sounded nice) if not getting a whole cat back or true dual set up, then you need to tune out your front O2 sensors and maybe even your EGR

my suggestion would be coated pacesetters, TSP y pipe and stock catback, get a tune to fix your O2s and enjoy your slightly faster better sounding car.
I agree

The TC will cost you to have it installed, where as the headers and y-pipe can be done in the driveway with friends.
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 12:33 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Not4Racin
My plan:
1.Nitrous....100 dry shot...100 hp = 1 sec quicker
2.Stall...3800 plus cooler and tune = 1/2 sec quicker
3.headers....pacesetters uncoated with y pipe.= 3/10 tenths quicker

Maximum go for least dough at each writing of the check.

A 100 Dry shot will not make you go 1 full second quicker. With a NX 150 wet I went from 12.8 to 11.9. I dont see a 100 dry doing that.


Chad
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 01:13 PM
  #34  
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Maybe he meant 100 dry shot to the wheels which would equal about 150 shot at the flywheel.
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 01:33 PM
  #35  
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I did hedders first then stall,but if I had to start all over I would have done the stall(TCI34-3800stall) first made a HUGE diff.make sure you get a trans.cooler though.
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 01:36 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cws T/A

If you tune out the front o2's your car will not run at all

I think you meant the rears
my car has no MAF, no O2s and no polution control devices at all
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 01:48 PM
  #37  
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I got headers, ory, and LM2 and Im def wishing I woulda just went with a stall first.....
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 01:49 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Cop Car
my car has no MAF, no O2s and no polution control devices at all
why in the world would you remove the MAF or O2s unless you HAVE to?
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 02:08 PM
  #39  
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Stall first PERIOD. Trust me, that's the way you want to go. Don't get anything under 3600. I have a 4000 stall, daily driven. And you don't NEED drag radials with a stall. You don't want headers without the rest of the exhaust system so keep that in mind. Headers will not give you anywhere near the difference as a good stall will. Did I mention that you want to get a stall first?
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 02:11 PM
  #40  
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Im on a budget...so whats the best stall?
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