BOSS APPROVED!
bolt ons that actually make a difference
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
iTrader: (75)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 0
From: Rock Hill, South Carolina
what about exhaust wise im going with QTP headers probably how do true duals work is it a custom made thing or is it something u order in sections? whats better x pipe or real true duals with one pipe per header? im trying to decide whether i want to keep my LM1 kit and go with a QTP ory with there cutouts? opinions????
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 14
From: England
Exhausts are a big debate, best thing to do is research exhaust setups. There's a lot of good info in the sticky induction/exhuast mods. Read post 6 and 13. Then you can come to your own conclusion about what will work for your needs and budget.
BTW - don't bother with a k&n filter. OEM paper ones are fine for about 500bhp. K&N's are expensive, high maintances, high running costs and when dirty flow worse than paper.
BTW - don't bother with a k&n filter. OEM paper ones are fine for about 500bhp. K&N's are expensive, high maintances, high running costs and when dirty flow worse than paper.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 14
From: England
If you seriously plan on FI then consider each option carefully.
Personally I would love to go FI, but wihtout a built block and all supporting mods it does limit your HP potential. And in many cases a stout h/c setup will get pretty close for far less money.
Personally I would love to go FI, but wihtout a built block and all supporting mods it does limit your HP potential. And in many cases a stout h/c setup will get pretty close for far less money.
Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
I would love to go FI, but wihtout a built block and all supporting mods it does limit your HP potential.
No, not the case. There are some people in the FI section pushing 600 rwhp+ on the stock bottom end all day long. I have been pushing more than 500 rwhp for almost 2 years on the stock bottom end also.
But we know our friend here is talking about basic bolt ons anyway.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Everything mentioned here is close to all there is. You can find info and results on almost any bolt-on on this board. Also, remember. Weight reduction is always beneficial in tons of ways. Better acceleration, handling braking and even gas mileage. Get some weightweight carpet and dump the back seats and seat belts. AIR system can go, relocate your battery. Depends on how serious you want to get. Dish your crash bumpers out, lexan windows and a nice strip tire setup. All depends on your personal goals.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 14
From: England
Originally Posted by Urban Legend
No, not the case. There are some people in the FI section pushing 600 rwhp+ on the stock bottom end all day long. I have been pushing more than 500 rwhp for almost 2 years on the stock bottom end also.
But we know our friend here is talking about basic bolt ons anyway.
But we know our friend here is talking about basic bolt ons anyway.
And the ones making 600+rwhp, well I dunno. It seems so many claim this number but then you find out they where on 100 or 110 octane fuel and running meth kit. When they hit the street they soon rack it down to sensible levels.
Also I see no point in making big power and then never using it, I'm sure a lot of these guys just get a dyno run to claim the numbers and then hardly ever use the power instead keeping the rpms below 4000rpm at all times just in case. For me that isn't fun.
450+ rwhp is possible from h/c at a fraction of the cost. A safe FI setup won't see much more than that. Anything more is probably on borrowed time.
You may be different or lucky I don't know. How often do you get on it and really use the power? Personally I love driving fast and pretty much every journey I make in my z/28 it gets a beating - because its FUN!
BTW - If I was going to the cost of FI, 650-700rwhp is the minimal I'd be looking at.
Originally Posted by bjamick
pretty much everything has been said that is really easy, and makes good power, with what has been said if you did it all you would have an high 11 sec car or low 12's all motor with a 100 shot id say maybe close to a 10 sec.
LT header=$500
your car came with an ls6 intake.....
port and polish your TB=FREE
SLP air lid=$90
K&N air filter=$60
true dual exaust with whatever mufflers=$500
suspension=$300
drag radials=$300
NOS=$500
there ya go a run down of very good cheap bolt ons.
$2250 for a low-mid 11 sec car i think thats pretty good. and you can still drive it where ever you want to.
LT header=$500
your car came with an ls6 intake.....
port and polish your TB=FREE
SLP air lid=$90
K&N air filter=$60
true dual exaust with whatever mufflers=$500
suspension=$300
drag radials=$300
NOS=$500
there ya go a run down of very good cheap bolt ons.
$2250 for a low-mid 11 sec car i think thats pretty good. and you can still drive it where ever you want to.
There are some useless mods out there, i.e. aftermarket MAF, but another I regret is SLP longtube headers. They make good power but just hang too low and scrape. Before you jump into a mod dont just look for its power gain potential but also which brand is best for you.
BHP300 as far as the smooth bellow you mentioned, true it probably doesnt yield any HP but I think it makes the engine bay look 10X better (I know were not talking about looks here but for $45 I like the mod) And as for the K&N filter I think that is as safe a mod as you can get. It has a 1,000,000 mile warranty and I vacuum mine every so ofter and lube it up. Nothing wrong with a little maintainence work.
BHP300 as far as the smooth bellow you mentioned, true it probably doesnt yield any HP but I think it makes the engine bay look 10X better (I know were not talking about looks here but for $45 I like the mod) And as for the K&N filter I think that is as safe a mod as you can get. It has a 1,000,000 mile warranty and I vacuum mine every so ofter and lube it up. Nothing wrong with a little maintainence work.
