Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

OK, lots of searching has given me some great stuff, but im still left with this...

I just did the LS6 PCV mod,,installed the LS6 valley cover, and am putting on a new SLP LS6 intake,,,,my question lies with the coolant lines in conjunction with the new LS6 valley cover.
I would like to keep my LS1 "I" style, and not block off the back two, but the PCV nipple that sticks out of the front of the new LS6 valley cover prevents my LS1 coolant line from connecting on the front passenger side,,its close,,but im afraid if i force it, i will snap the "I" lines where they seem to be joined....has anyone found a remedy for this? Can i "bend the LS1 line so it goes around the PCV nipple coming off the LS6 valley cover? OR, should i just go with the fornt only, and block off the back two,,,that set up comes with the new intake. Does blocking off the back two hurt anything? (I've read alot about the #7)

Thanx for any help and advise you can give me

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

keep the ls1 lines it for a number of reasons. blocking off is not a good idea. i am guessing that you have used a carbide grinder or equivalent to make room for the ls1 lines under the ls6 intake. i must ad i am not familiar with the ls6 valley cover and do not know why the pvc changes is being done. i wish i could see the line clearance problem. do not break anything on the intake. if you can not bend it you can cut the line and extend it or replace it if necessary.

note. the 'coolant lines' are there to also keep air from being trapped at the top of the head! I wonder how many pepes do this and dont bleed the line when they cap it. even if you do bleed off the air why would you want reduce flow in this area?
pm if needed

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

I run 2 2001+ front coolant lines ,one in the front like normal and one reversed mounted in the rear . I pulled off the hose it comes with and capped it with a plug and tightened down with a small clamp . cost $39.00 for 1 . flows like the 1998-2000 but has no lines in the valley area.

part # 12568478


Looks like this

http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE011.jpg 2 front 2001+ coolant lines vs stock 1998-2000

http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE013.jpg Pull off that hose for the rear one and cap it.

http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE015.jpg problem solved

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

ok, that looks good, and alot better than blocking off the back too, which is what my new SLP intake comes with.....so the rear two,or rear line,,gets its coolant from under the block?,,,i thought it came in from the front (i.e TB bypass mod), and worked its way through the "I" shape to the rear,,all of which happens under the intake,,,,,but what you are saying is that the coolant travels in the front, (i.e. TB bypass )to the two front sides, then under the block to the rear?? thanx again for your help

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

The coolant tubes above the valley cover are just to vent steam - I do not think they are responsible for flowing the majority of the coolant. The water pump has 1 large feed port and 1 large return port on each side of the engine.

Check out the related thread in the Forced Induction section... there is some good info on it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/630983-will-ls6-coolant-tube-conversion-hurt-cooling-system-performance.html

-Dave

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

this is true and it is also why i say don't plug them. this is the last place you want air trapped.

Matt87GTA

Indeed.... Old school small block Chevys never had steam passages for the cooling systems and eventually the aftermarket figured out that allowing the steam/coolant to flow from one head to the other helped out immensely in keeping the heads at even temps across all cylinders and thus reduce things like preignition and overheating in extreme cases.

The Brodix heads on my GTA have provisions for adding a coolant crossover on each head.

I am new at the LS1 but I definitely like the idea of using a regular coolant pipe on the back instead of blocking them off completely.

The I pipe is just going to allow the coolant/steam to equalize that much more from front to rear as well as side to side and would be ideal to retain theoretically but I would bet that just keeping some sort of crossover in the front and rear would keep the heads at very uniform temperatures.

FastKat

iTrader: (10)

Hmm, I would love to run the full front/rear coolant steam pipe but I am worried about grinding on the underside of my LS6 intake so the pipe will fit. That thing cost me $300 and I don't want to F it up!

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

i just did it in mine. all you really need to remove is the raised ridge. i used a air powered carbide grinder and only removed the necessary path. i probably took off an extra 1/32 too but i dont think it was necessary. i traced the pipe route on paper and then ovelayed it.