*Your opinions on Headers*
*Your opinions on Headers* Its time folks.... I'm wanting SS LTs and am probably going to go w/ either QTP or Kooks. Now, when they say "Racing Style" what exactly is different? Does that just mean its set up to accept an ORY instead of Cats? or what?
Also... for a street car/DD... what size should I get? 1-3/4" or 1-7/8". I'm guessing 1-3/4". I understand that the smaller the header, the more back preasure, which means more low end torque.. but what size would you guys recomend?
One last thing... I'm bad about overkill and since I'm spending this much money on headers, why not some more and get them ceramic coated? I know SS headers wont rust on their own, but getting them coated will keep that much more heat out of the engine bay.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Ideas?
Also... for a street car/DD... what size should I get? 1-3/4" or 1-7/8". I'm guessing 1-3/4". I understand that the smaller the header, the more back preasure, which means more low end torque.. but what size would you guys recomend?
One last thing... I'm bad about overkill and since I'm spending this much money on headers, why not some more and get them ceramic coated? I know SS headers wont rust on their own, but getting them coated will keep that much more heat out of the engine bay.
Thoughts? Suggestions? Ideas?
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,807
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver,[KITSILANO].B.C. Canada *WestCoast*
RACE STYLE has NO EGR/AIR hookups. I have ceramic coated Edelbrock LT's.with egr/air.Coated are cooler and look nice for quite awhile, depending on use/area.
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (42)
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,063
Likes: 0
From: Tomball/Nacogdoches TX
You don't need EGR go with race style. Air recycles useless air that gets trapped at the top of the intake manifold back into the motor (I believe). Waste of weight and hurts hp. Get rid of it
The AIR system is the little tubes hooked up to your exhaust manifolds, one on each side. They point up toward the hood and are held on by two 10mm headed bolts, per side. AIR pump (under the driver headlight) pumps air into the exhaust stream to help heat the cats faster and meet emissions light off faster.
AKA Junk
Get the race style, then have the AIR/EGR/Rear O2 codes deleted so your SES light won't come on. You'll have a cleaner engine bay, less weight, and no possibility for the bungs blowing off the header tubes.
AKA Junk
Get the race style, then have the AIR/EGR/Rear O2 codes deleted so your SES light won't come on. You'll have a cleaner engine bay, less weight, and no possibility for the bungs blowing off the header tubes.
I will hook you up dan. Race style just means that they have no AIR hook up on the header itself, if you go with race headers you will throw an SES light. You can have it tuned out no prob. As for size, most everyone goes with 1 3/4. I have 1 7/8 KOOKS into a catted Y through a GMMG and have no loss of low end torque, I got a killer deal on them from Scoggin Dickey that I could not pass up, got em a few hundred cheaper than the smaller diameter. As for the ceramic coating, it helps a smidge for heat but nothing that is gonna be extremely noticeable. I am going with a ORY with my KOOKS so if you go with KOOKS and want a catted Y to go with your GMMG lemme know
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
The AIR system is the little tubes hooked up to your exhaust manifolds, one on each side. They point up toward the hood and are held on by two 10mm headed bolts, per side. AIR pump (under the driver headlight) pumps air into the exhaust stream to help heat the cats faster and meet emissions light off faster.
AKA Junk
Get the race style, then have the AIR/EGR/Rear O2 codes deleted so your SES light won't come on. You'll have a cleaner engine bay, less weight, and no possibility for the bungs blowing off the header tubes.
AKA Junk
Get the race style, then have the AIR/EGR/Rear O2 codes deleted so your SES light won't come on. You'll have a cleaner engine bay, less weight, and no possibility for the bungs blowing off the header tubes.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by dpw41285
there you have it... i enjoy reading your post blur. i often find you as the
Thank you very much folks for you are the plethora of LS1 Fbody knowledge 
Now.... catted Y? or ORY? I'll probably be getting one of those solenoids that tells the computer everything is ok (forgot what its called)
Now.... catted Y? or ORY? I'll probably be getting one of those solenoids that tells the computer everything is ok (forgot what its called)
Hey Blur, I have got to ask its been bothering me everytime I see you post. You put that e in there on purpose right?
O2 sims, but just save yourself some trouble and get true duals
O2 sims, but just save yourself some trouble and get true duals
But i dont want true duals. How would that save me any trouble? Its a lot more money, more of a PITA, and I just recently bought a GMMG exhaust. I find going the TD route would be very troublesome
Catted-y sounds better, there will be less rasp.
Also it's not about backpressure, it's about exhaust gas velocity. A larger primary might lose some of the exhaust gas velocity, thereby making less torque and power. But with a smaller primary, the velocity will be up, thereby making more torque.
Also it's not about backpressure, it's about exhaust gas velocity. A larger primary might lose some of the exhaust gas velocity, thereby making less torque and power. But with a smaller primary, the velocity will be up, thereby making more torque.
Originally Posted by DANSBIRD
But i dont want true duals. How would that save me any trouble? Its a lot more money, more of a PITA, and I just recently bought a GMMG exhaust. I find going the TD route would be very troublesome
Originally Posted by lsx24
Catted-y sounds better, there will be less rasp.
Also it's not about backpressure, it's about exhaust gas velocity. A larger primary might lose some of the exhaust gas velocity, thereby making less torque and power. But with a smaller primary, the velocity will be up, thereby making more torque.
Also it's not about backpressure, it's about exhaust gas velocity. A larger primary might lose some of the exhaust gas velocity, thereby making less torque and power. But with a smaller primary, the velocity will be up, thereby making more torque.
Thanks
I always thought that the catted Y was a big no-no... but after reading a lot in here, it sounds like its the better way to go w/ minimal power loss, especially on a DD.
Originally Posted by lsx24
Have you considered the Bassani True Dual exhuast? It's much more refined that a typical True Dual system. Good sound, not too much volume, and good clearance. Just another option for those who think true duals are a pain in the ***.
No exhaust over the axles, no care. And plus, like I said, i just sunk like $800 or so into my GMMG and i love it.