how the hell do i get the driver side header in!!???

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Feb 19, 2007 | 12:04 PM

#21

white_camaro

TECH Regular

iTrader: (13)

Joined: Jul 2005

Posts: 468

Likes: 3

From: las vegas, nv

before you start cutting try removing the steering linkage, two bolts, one on the top one on the bottom, it made the header install on my friends car MUCH easier.

Feb 19, 2007 | 12:05 PM

#22

davered00ss

Moderator

iTrader: (4)

Joined: Nov 2003

Posts: 10,520

Likes: 0

From: Plainfield, CT

Point the header towards the front of the car and rotate it in.

Feb 19, 2007 | 12:08 PM

#23

davered00ss

Moderator

iTrader: (4)

Joined: Nov 2003

Posts: 10,520

Likes: 0

From: Plainfield, CT

We did gman's 1 7/8 kooks with an ls2 402 without any grindind. Just took a little finess.

where in Ma are you?

Feb 19, 2007 | 12:16 PM

#24

z-boy

Teching In

iTrader: (2)

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 36

Likes: 0

i had to take the steering shaft out, and i shouldve took out the plugs because i broke one of them....my car wasnt real high..i installed a set of flowtech lts and ypipe with some of my buddies help...it took a little pressure but the driverside went in....i just slid the flange in at an angle, and we managed to work it in there....i couldnt have got it in there without removing my steering shaft....hope it helps you some...

Feb 19, 2007 | 03:10 PM

#25

Danny2tek

TECH Veteran

iTrader: (1)

Joined: Oct 2002

Posts: 4,770

Likes: 7

From: Miami

Quote:

Originally Posted by silverbandit0996

i dented in the firewall right below the gas pedal about 1/2", but that was for pacesetters.

Yep I also had to put a little love tap into the firewall.

Feb 19, 2007 | 04:30 PM

#26

davered00ss

Moderator

iTrader: (4)

Joined: Nov 2003

Posts: 10,520

Likes: 0

From: Plainfield, CT

It was tight. I thought we would have to file a small part of the tab on the block off, but it slid in..........Tight.

Feb 19, 2007 | 06:28 PM

#27

blackssz

Teching In

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 17

Likes: 0

Just did a set
undo the engine mount,remove the mount bracket at the kmember(4 bolts)
steering shaft(2 bolts)
jack up the engine,it will slide right in place

Feb 19, 2007 | 06:31 PM

#28

C Murda

Thread Starter

TECH Fanatic

iTrader: (24)

Joined: Mar 2005

Posts: 1,012

Likes: 1

From: Mass

ok i will be getting back to this tomoro since its gonna be in the 40s this time haha... so where is the other bolt on the steering link? i only could see one and it was the one that connects the collumn to a link?

LS1 Tech Stories

The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin

Verdad Gallardo

6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them

Pouria Savadkouei

Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph

Verdad Gallardo

Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked

Pouria Savadkouei

Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!

Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP

Verdad Gallardo

Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes

Verdad Gallardo

Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power

Verdad Gallardo

10 Camaros You Should Never Buy

10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die

Verdad Gallardo

Feb 19, 2007 | 06:34 PM

#29

white_camaro

TECH Regular

iTrader: (13)

Joined: Jul 2005

Posts: 468

Likes: 3

From: las vegas, nv

just follow the linkage towards the bottom. you will have to get the bottom bolt from underneath the car.

Feb 19, 2007 | 06:45 PM

#30

C Murda

Thread Starter

TECH Fanatic

iTrader: (24)

Joined: Mar 2005

Posts: 1,012

Likes: 1

From: Mass

and then i can just pull the links out?

Feb 19, 2007 | 08:55 PM

#31

white_camaro

TECH Regular

iTrader: (13)

Joined: Jul 2005

Posts: 468

Likes: 3

From: las vegas, nv

yes. then the linkage should slide right off.

Feb 19, 2007 | 10:24 PM

#32

TheBlurLS1

That's what she said...

iTrader: (8)

Joined: Mar 2004

Posts: 7,954

Likes: 2

From: Nederland Texas

There's one bolt beside the #3-#5 primary area, and another on the nuckle you have to get from the bottom. Once they are removed, tap it up off the lower splined section and it will slide back up the upper part, then pop out.

I'm 90% positive you will have to jack the motor up. It's EASY, so just get after it instead of thinking about it. You'll be done before you figure out that you HAVE to.

Jul 27, 2007 | 05:20 PM

#33

kenp

11 Second Club

iTrader: (9)

Joined: Nov 2004

Posts: 795

Likes: 2

From: Cincinnati Area

I know this is an old thread, but I'm having the same issue with my kooks driver's side install. Removed some material from the K member and that didn't help. Lifted up the motor about 1 inch. That didn't help. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the motor mount & see if that does it. I have the car on a lift and I've manipulated the dang thing every way possible. It's just being a bit difficult.

I'm interested to know what C MURDA finally had to do to slide them in place.

Jul 27, 2007 | 05:50 PM

#34

C Murda

Thread Starter

TECH Fanatic

iTrader: (24)

Joined: Mar 2005

Posts: 1,012

Likes: 1

From: Mass

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenp

you really have to remove that steering kinkage...thats what did it for me. then took some wiggling and make sure the collector points straight down to the ground and then it should all wiggle in. i also did lift the motor about an 1" or so off the k member with mounts still bolted to block (used the phonebook and jack trick against the oil pan)
good luck

Jul 27, 2007 | 05:58 PM

#35

thecorrectformula

Launching!

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 225

Likes: 0

From: Delaware, OH

All i had to do was undo the steering linkage and use a prybar

Jul 27, 2007 | 06:44 PM

#36

RacerScott

Launching!

iTrader: (6)

Joined: Jul 2006

Posts: 281

Likes: 0

From: St. Joseph, MI

is the casting tab not a issue with the kooks? When I did my pacesetters last week, it was clear that the tab was in the way after screwing around for about 5 minutes trying to get it in. I cut the dam thing off with a sawzaw. its like a 1in by 1in. chunk, after that It went right in.

Jul 27, 2007 | 07:32 PM

#37

2KnbmTA

TECH Enthusiast

iTrader: (3)

Joined: Jul 2005

Posts: 565

Likes: 0

From: Tomball, Texas

woooo the first header install i did took 15 hours on a buddy of mine's z. they were pacesetters. getting them in didnt take as long as getting the manifolds off did. like, it think we got them in in 1.5-2 hours. getting those back header bolts off took us the most time.

Jul 27, 2007 | 08:20 PM

#38

Country Boy

Senior Member

iTrader: (24)

Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 6,034

Likes: 1

From: Tampa, FL

To get my Kooks 1 7/8 on I had to take off the alternator, unbolt both motor mounts, raise the engine as high as it would go, shove the engine as far forward as it would go (with the drive shaft and TQ arm off and the tranny on a tranny jack) and still beat, cuss and pry them in. I also had to cut the tab off the block and undo the steering linkage. The pass header sat right on top of the K member and almost rubbed a hole in it. I got ZERO CS from Kooks when I contacted them.

I would NEVER buy them again. Im no dumbass when it comes to cars either. It was my 4th set of headers.

Jul 28, 2007 | 10:31 AM

#39

killerinparadise

TECH Apprentice

iTrader: (2)

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 337

Likes: 0

It took me longer to get the stock manifolds off then put the longtubes in, putting them in went really smooth all I had to do was remove the steering knuckle and it went right in with some wiggling and pulling from the top, I didn't have to remove the part of the block or notch the kmember, these were pacesetters, just be patient and look at everything thats going on, where its hitting whats in the way what you'll have to do to get it out of your way etc. total install took about 8 hours maybe a little more, this was also on floor jacks that only lifted about 20" too.