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Is it possible to get 12 secs out of bolt ons only

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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 10:42 PM
  #21  
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+1 on the 3.73 gears.....they will wake up that car like you cant even imagine
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 12:46 AM
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well i have a 99 so i dont have the ls6 intake. i think im gonna just go with some good lts and a magnaflow for starters along with a good lid since they arent that expensive
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 01:26 AM
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for the cost of an ls6 intake, you could buy gears and an install kit. i dont have an ls6 intake so i dont know exactly what the gains are like but i think if i were just doing ONE thing right now, i'd go with some gears if i wanted a faster e/t
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 08:23 AM
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whats a good source for purchasing 3.73's and what else is needed to make them functional and not destroy my car?
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 08:32 AM
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check out the for sale section everything you need flows right through there for some good prices.....get yourself a lid any kind is good, pacesetter makes awesome headers for the price i think 375 with ceramic coating. then get a stall ...not sure im M6 many claim 10 to 15+ rwhp with an ls6 intake manifold so just search around and see what you want....gears usually arent to bad 3.73 will be really nice on the a4 otherwise it erally just depends on what your lookin to do man possibilities are endless
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by fbodymaniac
i got a 13.76 out of my stock a4 camaro. i'm wondering if i can get some 12's out of it with bolt-ons only. if so what bolt-ons do i need.

when i had my 02 A4, i did the slp lid, loud-mouth, k&n, smooth bellow and tb bypass and made a near 13 flat 1/4 mile. I made a small little churp on launching so i could've just broke into the 12s on stock 245/50/16s
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 11:54 AM
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Nope, nope, can't do it. It's not possible to break into the 12's with only bolt-ons. No way, no how.

You can get into the 11's though.
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 00slowredz
...but i think if i were just doing ONE thing right now, i'd go with a torque converter if i wanted a faster e/t
I fix.
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
Nope, nope, can't do it. It's not possible to break into the 12's with only bolt-ons. No way, no how.

You can get into the 11's though.
I can't wait to see that magic # 11. All I need is some sticky tires.
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bene
I can't wait to see that magic # 11. All I need is some sticky tires.
Just don't lose your t-tops like I did. MT Drag Radials stick like some Gorilla Glue.
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 12:43 PM
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I ran a 12.16 with stock headers on a 2001 formula.
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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I was ready to get QTP long tubes until I went to a group Dyno last year and guy in local club with M6 and same exact mods as me w/ LT headers only dyno 10 more HP than me, the only reason he put his headers on is he has big cam now. I'm just stating good ORY bolts on in 1 hour, and much cheaper. I smoke guys at the track all day with LT and stock internals, get converter and good tires after intake and exhaust.
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
Nope, nope, can't do it. It's not possible to break into the 12's with only bolt-ons. No way, no how.

You can get into the 11's though.

11's with bolt ons is AWESOME man....i hope i can get to that fantastic number this year but i doubt it will happen. i absolutely REFUSE to buy a stall because im doing a 6spd swap next year and i think it would be a waste of $ to buy a big stall now
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 10:02 PM
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i done 3.73s and all intake and exhaust oltons picked up over a second at the track in shitty weather
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 10:11 PM
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i did 13.5@106 with 2.73's and loudmouth, cai, and bellows.....im adding some drs to my setup for this spring. i'd love to get an 11 but i think 12's are at least a sure thing
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 00slowredz
11's with bolt ons is AWESOME man....i hope i can get to that fantastic number this year but i doubt it will happen. i absolutely REFUSE to buy a stall because im doing a 6spd swap next year and i think it would be a waste of $ to buy a big stall now
If you're concentrating on drag-racing, why not stick with an auto? A manual is more of a handicap. You break more stuff, and it's hard to be consistent. Not saying that you can't be a competitive drag racer with an M6, but it's just harder. To each their own I guess...

For example, ele-blue95 and I are always racing at the track together. I ALWAYS get him out of the hole, and he's playing catch-up. He has at least 30 more rwhp than me, and is an M6. To date, I'm .450 or so ahead of him in the 1/4 mile, and he's an awesome driver.


FWIW, my stock times were 13.7 at around 103 mph.

Now I'm sitting at 11.9x's with average traps in the high 113's.

1.7 seconds and 10 mph. Oh how far I've come... And there's still a little left to go SI. I'm thinking that I can crack 11.5's before I spray the car. I just need to get a rear end under it that can handle the low 1.5/high 1.4 60's that I'm planning on pulling to get there.

11's with bolt-ons isn't THAT hard, it just requires careful selection of parts, dedicating the car to drag racing, and most of all... PRACTICE...

Good job to all you guys in the 12's, good luck to all you guys trying to crack the 11's SI. It's a good place to be.
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
If you're concentrating on drag-racing, why not stick with an auto? A manual is more of a handicap. You break more stuff, and it's hard to be consistent. Not saying that you can't be a competitive drag racer with an M6, but it's just harder. To each their own I guess...

For example, ele-blue95 and I are always racing at the track together. I ALWAYS get him out of the hole, and he's playing catch-up. He has at least 30 more rwhp than me, and is an M6. To date, I'm .450 or so ahead of him in the 1/4 mile, and he's an awesome driver.


FWIW, my stock times were 13.7 at around 103 mph.

Now I'm sitting at 11.9x's with average traps in the high 113's.

1.7 seconds and 10 mph. Oh how far I've come... And there's still a little left to go SI. I'm thinking that I can crack 11.5's before I spray the car. I just need to get a rear end under it that can handle the low 1.5/high 1.4 60's that I'm planning on pulling to get there.

11's with bolt-ons isn't THAT hard, it just requires careful selection of parts, dedicating the car to drag racing, and most of all... PRACTICE...

Good job to all you guys in the 12's, good luck to all you guys trying to crack the 11's SI. It's a good place to be.

honestly i would be willing to give up a little bit of speed in the 1/4 to have a 6spd. its just a lot more fun to drive, feels faster to me, more of a challenge is a good thing, and i dont just like to drag race, i dont mind taking some bends on the way home and a 6spd is awesome for that. and if you're ever out on the highway just cruisin, you can have 4.10s and do 80mph without wastin a whole lot of gas. i dont know, i just hate having an auto...every other car i had that was remotely fast was a 5 spd....this is the fastest car i've ever had and i cant shift gears....it sux
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 11:04 PM
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If you are an auto, the most important mods should be a nice stall and good tires. Those two alone will get you 12's if you hole shot her good. To support the stall and give youself more top end, get yourself a set of Long tubes, some true duals and a lid. Once you tune, you will be waste deep in the 12's.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 12:08 AM
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Tires and a cat back should get you there if you wan't a little more get it tuned.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bigman
If you are an auto, the most important mods should be a nice stall and good tires. Those two alone will get you 12's if you hole shot her good. To support the stall and give youself more top end, get yourself a set of Long tubes, some true duals and a lid. Once you tune, you will be waste deep in the 12's.
+1 on the stall. Gears will give you .2 if you are lucky.. stall will knock off .5 or more.

My car doens't even have headers and I've run several 12.67-.69's on MT Street radials (but had some major wheel hop problems on some runs). this season I have a little less weight and new susepnsion pieces as well as ET street's instead of the borrowed Mt DR's I was running last year. should be consistant now and run low 12.6's.
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