True duals are finally on :)
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I think the BMR kit would lower the driver's side right down onto the top of the pipe. I'm not sure that kit would be of benefit to what you have here.
It seems like if you got that kit, and had your exhaust guy make another pipe to snake over the BMR bar, then you'd be good.
Have you considered lowering the bumpstops for the axle? Maybe that would help keep the axle off the pipe.
Good luck. It looks really good.
It seems like if you got that kit, and had your exhaust guy make another pipe to snake over the BMR bar, then you'd be good.
Have you considered lowering the bumpstops for the axle? Maybe that would help keep the axle off the pipe.
Good luck. It looks really good.
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Originally Posted by radz282003
I think the BMR kit would lower the driver's side right down onto the top of the pipe. I'm not sure that kit would be of benefit to what you have here.
It seems like if you got that kit, and had your exhaust guy make another pipe to snake over the BMR bar, then you'd be good.
It seems like if you got that kit, and had your exhaust guy make another pipe to snake over the BMR bar, then you'd be good.
Exactly, it would lower the angle of the top bar and make your side worse. The BMR bar is designed to give you more space on the pass. side to run a 4" pipe or 2 smaller ones.
Going over the bar wouldnt work, the piece BMR makes is just a relocation bracket for the upper bar that mounts on the pass side to lower its mounting point. It does not create enough room on the drivers side to run a pipe over.
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Thanks
. The problem really isn't the axle though, its just the bar going under the pipe. The one above it will be ok if it stays even a little bit away from it since they both are attached to the chassis, both move together. But you are probably right about it coming down too far though...
I sent him an email about it. I think he said there's a 90 day warranty on it and to get ahold of him with any questions or problems, so we'll see what we can get worked out. It looks like if you get the pipes through there just right that it won't be a problem.
What are the bumpstops for the axle? I haven't heard of that. I haven't done a whole lot with the rear end of my car and I'm kinda learning the areas of my car as I go around modding them
. lol
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I sent him an email about it. I think he said there's a 90 day warranty on it and to get ahold of him with any questions or problems, so we'll see what we can get worked out. It looks like if you get the pipes through there just right that it won't be a problem.
What are the bumpstops for the axle? I haven't heard of that. I haven't done a whole lot with the rear end of my car and I'm kinda learning the areas of my car as I go around modding them
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
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Originally Posted by Speedmonster185
Thanks
. The problem really isn't the axle though, its just the bar going under the pipe. The one above it will be ok if it stays even a little bit away from it since they both are attached to the chassis, both move together. But you are probably right about it coming down too far though...
I sent him an email about it. I think he said there's a 90 day warranty on it and to get ahold of him with any questions or problems, so we'll see what we can get worked out. It looks like if you get the pipes through there just right that it won't be a problem.
What are the bumpstops for the axle? I haven't heard of that. I haven't done a whole lot with the rear end of my car and I'm kinda learning the areas of my car as I go around modding them
. lol
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I sent him an email about it. I think he said there's a 90 day warranty on it and to get ahold of him with any questions or problems, so we'll see what we can get worked out. It looks like if you get the pipes through there just right that it won't be a problem.
What are the bumpstops for the axle? I haven't heard of that. I haven't done a whole lot with the rear end of my car and I'm kinda learning the areas of my car as I go around modding them
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
The bump stops arent the problem... for them to be lowered enough to make your exhaust stop banging you might as well just take your shocks and springs off and weld the axle to the car.
Take a look at the upper pan hard bar thing, that is most likely where it is hitting. I would notch that, you can see where it has an uspside down "U" shape. I would also put another exhaust hanger going from where the pipe starts to go over the axle to where the rear frame starts, or the bottom of the back seat pan just like you would if you had dumps.
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Well... He put hangers back about where you would for dumps already. Those and some back on the very rear of the car.
And I'm 100% sure its that bar right below the pipe that is hitting it, and thats the lower control arm isn't it? I can actually look/feel up in there and see and feel the little dent and black mark that it is making, so I'm 100% sure thats what's doing it.
And I'm 100% sure its that bar right below the pipe that is hitting it, and thats the lower control arm isn't it? I can actually look/feel up in there and see and feel the little dent and black mark that it is making, so I'm 100% sure thats what's doing it.
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No, the lower control arms are on the sides of the car. The bar that goes from the drivers side of the axle to the pass. side of the frame is the panhard bar. The upper bar that goes from the drivers side of the frame to the place where the panhard bar mounts I have no idea the name for it, I've always referred to it as the upper panhard bar. Why don't you put some paint or something on the top bar and the bottom bar, go drive around and let it bump for a few, and see where the paint is scraped off?
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Oh... like I said, I'm new to suspension/rear end stuff... lol
I could do that. What exactly would I be doing it for though? I can see exactly where it's hitting already. Would it be for taking a notch out of it or something?
Sicne this is a completely different part that I thought it was, what are my options for fixing this now?
I could do that. What exactly would I be doing it for though? I can see exactly where it's hitting already. Would it be for taking a notch out of it or something?
Sicne this is a completely different part that I thought it was, what are my options for fixing this now?
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Originally Posted by GT Griller
i thought the tubular ones were thinner? and he is saying it is hitting on the bottom one...its the one that flexes a lil bit when u hit bumps.
Oh, I didn't read the part where he said he saw the marks on the bottom. He could get an adjustable panhard rod, and fab up a bracket to lower the mounting point on the rear end, it would have to be welded to that mounting point though. Someone else on here did it a few years back, I will look for pictures.
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I was just wondering if switching over to duals really helped you mid range and can it be fealt? I have adynomouth and happy with it but thought if I can increase rwhp especially in the mid range and it can be felt I may switch to duals
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Well I talked to him through an email and he said to bring it in to him and he'll do some adjustments on it. Hopefully that will fix it.
I have only put my foot to the floor once in it, so I can't really say if there's a big difference or not. I didn't notice it that one time, but then again I didn't notice when I did headers or anything else either. Lol. I think i just need a bigger jump than a couple HP/TQ to notice it.
And yes, it does have very good ground clearance. much better than my TSP ORY had. The spot that was lowest on that one was just after the drivers side header. It was a 3" round pipe that came down to a point, then back up, like very open V. Now the pipe comes out and is a 2.5" pipe that is oval shaped, so I would guess about 2" tall, and it goes go straight by that point (also closer to the body than the Y), so all in all I would guess I gained 1.5" or more clearance. My dad who went with me to pick it up and drove home behind me said "It looks a lot better from behind now. It doesn't look like something is broken and hanging off the bottom now." lol
I am going to be getting a tune within the month so I'll see if that helps the rasp any... I hope so... *crosses fingers*
I have only put my foot to the floor once in it, so I can't really say if there's a big difference or not. I didn't notice it that one time, but then again I didn't notice when I did headers or anything else either. Lol. I think i just need a bigger jump than a couple HP/TQ to notice it.
And yes, it does have very good ground clearance. much better than my TSP ORY had. The spot that was lowest on that one was just after the drivers side header. It was a 3" round pipe that came down to a point, then back up, like very open V. Now the pipe comes out and is a 2.5" pipe that is oval shaped, so I would guess about 2" tall, and it goes go straight by that point (also closer to the body than the Y), so all in all I would guess I gained 1.5" or more clearance. My dad who went with me to pick it up and drove home behind me said "It looks a lot better from behind now. It doesn't look like something is broken and hanging off the bottom now." lol
I am going to be getting a tune within the month so I'll see if that helps the rasp any... I hope so... *crosses fingers*
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The 1 chambers are kinda raspy. I've had setups with 1, 2, and 3 chambers. Honestly I liked the 3 chambers the best but they wouldn't fit with my BMR TA and 9" so I went to singles, I thought they sounded terrible so I got the 2 chambers. A bit better but still not as deep and mellow as the 3 chambers.