ZO6 Corvette wont start please help!!!!!
04-08-2007, 06:36 PM
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ZO6 Corvette wont start please help!!!!! Hey guys just need some info on what could be going on with my car????
I have a 2001 Z06 corvette with 35,000 miles on it. I just did performance mods to the car over the winter. I put ETP 215 cylinder heads with upgraded springs, big camshaft Gross valve lift intake .630 exhaust .630, Fast 90mm Intake manifold, Nick Williams 90mm T-body, Texas Speed Long tube headers with straight pipes to replace the cats, SLP loud mouth exhaust no mufflers, Halltech Stinger Cold air intake, SLP under drive pulley, Push-rods, SLP oil pump, 42 Fuel injectors, Double Roller timing chain, Ram Clutch, Ram Flywheel, Upgraded master cylinder, Upgraded slave, Went with different size tires in front 275/35/18's Rear 315/30/18's.
I did all the work in my garage besides the clutch work which was done at a performance shop about 4 months ago. The car ran fine after that work was done.
So, after all the work was completed I started up the car with my Stock fuel injectors from the factory. The car started right up with out the PCM retune which would be re-tuned at a later date.
The car ran rough when first started and it would run in reduced power when it was cold. When the car got up to temp the car ran mint. So after putting it all together I set up my Appt for a dyno tune. While waiting for the tow truck to get to my house, we pulled it out of the garage and heard a ticking sound coming from underneath the valve cover on the driver side. We didn't think much of it because it went away as soon as the car warmed up. We thought it could have been an exhaust leak or possibly the springs.
Finally, we got it up to the dyno shop. The car was parked for a baseline tune, drove it around for a little bit, and had trouble with the car because it kept going into a reduced power mode. So after screwing around with the car, we finally got it to run right.
The performance shop was using a HP tuner Software. They pulled it up on the dyno, put it in 4th gear and hit it. I walked over to the dyno graph and noticed it only made 405 Rear wheel horse and 405 Rear wheel torque. “Hmmmm something doesn’t seem right,” the tech said. So he gave it another try ran it up too 7000 RPMS once again same number 405/405 “hmmmm what is going on?”
After talking with the tech, he said the car should be making at the very least 440+. Looking at the dyno graph, the car would start to lose horse power after 5500 RPMS and he said it should be building a lot more power from 5500 RPMS and up not losing power.
So after everyone got a puzzled look on there face he talked to one of the tech’s about the ticking sound. After pulling off the driver side valve cover the rocker arms were loose and they ased if we preloaded the valve. I then answered no. They Responded back that that’s probably why you are losing power after 5500 RPMS because the valves aren't opening all the way.
Then my answer back was what do I need to do to fix this??? He then said you need to grind off the rocker pedestal so they could preload the lifters. I said well is that something you guys could do for me. The tech said sure. So I left the car at the performance shop so they could grind off both rocker pedestal's so the valves would open all the way and they also gave me new rocker arms.
After 4 days I was excited too go run the car on the dyno again and see the improvement it has made. I got a phone call from the performance shop asking me questions about the intake manifold. They asked if I replaced the 10 factory valley cover bolts underneath the intake manifold. I said no. His response back was “well do you have the 10 valley cover bolts the intake manifold came with.” “Yes I do.” He said he needed the valley cover bolts so they could tune my car. The intake manifold was sitting up to high so it caused a bad vacuum leak and was hoping I didn't crack the bottom of the intake manifold. I got to the shop ASAP gave the tech the 10 valley cover bolts took the intake manifold off and it was cracked underneath.
The tech said that the reason why your car has such a high idle and could also be a good possibility why its losing power. The good thing is that the intake manifold comes in 3 pieces so they ordered the bottom of the intake manifold.
The ticking sound was gone which was a good thing. So a couple days go by I then called up the shop ask them if everything was set to go. “No it's not ready we replaced the bottom valley cover bolts and put the cracked bottom intake manifold back on the car until the new one got here went to go start it up and the car wouldn't start. It doesn't crank or anything. We are going to wait till the new bottom of the intake manifold comes put that on see if it fixes the problem.”
They put the new bottom of the intake manifold on and still won't start. The car has been starting every time when I got there, when we ran it on the dyno twice, started it to pull it off the dyno, started it to put it back into the shop, Car ran perfectly fine after it was taking off the dyno. Now let's go back to taking the intake manifold off. The intake manifold was sitting up higher than it normally would do to the fact that the 10 valley factory bolts weren't allowing it too go down all the way.
The reason I was told that the car kept going into reduce power mode was because it was running too lean possibly due to the fact that the intake manifold was sitting up too high. Making the car run rich would fix the problem of it going lean and back into reduced power mode. Now that the intake manifold is actually sitting the way it is suppose to, would you have to lean it out a little????
I asked the tech's why it wasn't starting and they had no clue. They think it could be possibly be the anti theft alarm has come on and won't allow the car to start?!?!
They said they have checked spark, fuel & compression all turns out ok and that the tune they put on the car was fine. The whole starting problem began after the intake manifold was taken off and put back on again.
This is where I stand right now, lost as hell. Can you guys provide me with some kind of answer beside the anti theft alarm is keeping it from starting or is that really why the car isn't starting???? Please Help thanks
I have a 2001 Z06 corvette with 35,000 miles on it. I just did performance mods to the car over the winter. I put ETP 215 cylinder heads with upgraded springs, big camshaft Gross valve lift intake .630 exhaust .630, Fast 90mm Intake manifold, Nick Williams 90mm T-body, Texas Speed Long tube headers with straight pipes to replace the cats, SLP loud mouth exhaust no mufflers, Halltech Stinger Cold air intake, SLP under drive pulley, Push-rods, SLP oil pump, 42 Fuel injectors, Double Roller timing chain, Ram Clutch, Ram Flywheel, Upgraded master cylinder, Upgraded slave, Went with different size tires in front 275/35/18's Rear 315/30/18's.
I did all the work in my garage besides the clutch work which was done at a performance shop about 4 months ago. The car ran fine after that work was done.
So, after all the work was completed I started up the car with my Stock fuel injectors from the factory. The car started right up with out the PCM retune which would be re-tuned at a later date.
The car ran rough when first started and it would run in reduced power when it was cold. When the car got up to temp the car ran mint. So after putting it all together I set up my Appt for a dyno tune. While waiting for the tow truck to get to my house, we pulled it out of the garage and heard a ticking sound coming from underneath the valve cover on the driver side. We didn't think much of it because it went away as soon as the car warmed up. We thought it could have been an exhaust leak or possibly the springs.
Finally, we got it up to the dyno shop. The car was parked for a baseline tune, drove it around for a little bit, and had trouble with the car because it kept going into a reduced power mode. So after screwing around with the car, we finally got it to run right.
The performance shop was using a HP tuner Software. They pulled it up on the dyno, put it in 4th gear and hit it. I walked over to the dyno graph and noticed it only made 405 Rear wheel horse and 405 Rear wheel torque. “Hmmmm something doesn’t seem right,” the tech said. So he gave it another try ran it up too 7000 RPMS once again same number 405/405 “hmmmm what is going on?”
After talking with the tech, he said the car should be making at the very least 440+. Looking at the dyno graph, the car would start to lose horse power after 5500 RPMS and he said it should be building a lot more power from 5500 RPMS and up not losing power.
So after everyone got a puzzled look on there face he talked to one of the tech’s about the ticking sound. After pulling off the driver side valve cover the rocker arms were loose and they ased if we preloaded the valve. I then answered no. They Responded back that that’s probably why you are losing power after 5500 RPMS because the valves aren't opening all the way.
Then my answer back was what do I need to do to fix this??? He then said you need to grind off the rocker pedestal so they could preload the lifters. I said well is that something you guys could do for me. The tech said sure. So I left the car at the performance shop so they could grind off both rocker pedestal's so the valves would open all the way and they also gave me new rocker arms.
After 4 days I was excited too go run the car on the dyno again and see the improvement it has made. I got a phone call from the performance shop asking me questions about the intake manifold. They asked if I replaced the 10 factory valley cover bolts underneath the intake manifold. I said no. His response back was “well do you have the 10 valley cover bolts the intake manifold came with.” “Yes I do.” He said he needed the valley cover bolts so they could tune my car. The intake manifold was sitting up to high so it caused a bad vacuum leak and was hoping I didn't crack the bottom of the intake manifold. I got to the shop ASAP gave the tech the 10 valley cover bolts took the intake manifold off and it was cracked underneath.
The tech said that the reason why your car has such a high idle and could also be a good possibility why its losing power. The good thing is that the intake manifold comes in 3 pieces so they ordered the bottom of the intake manifold.
The ticking sound was gone which was a good thing. So a couple days go by I then called up the shop ask them if everything was set to go. “No it's not ready we replaced the bottom valley cover bolts and put the cracked bottom intake manifold back on the car until the new one got here went to go start it up and the car wouldn't start. It doesn't crank or anything. We are going to wait till the new bottom of the intake manifold comes put that on see if it fixes the problem.”
They put the new bottom of the intake manifold on and still won't start. The car has been starting every time when I got there, when we ran it on the dyno twice, started it to pull it off the dyno, started it to put it back into the shop, Car ran perfectly fine after it was taking off the dyno. Now let's go back to taking the intake manifold off. The intake manifold was sitting up higher than it normally would do to the fact that the 10 valley factory bolts weren't allowing it too go down all the way.
The reason I was told that the car kept going into reduce power mode was because it was running too lean possibly due to the fact that the intake manifold was sitting up too high. Making the car run rich would fix the problem of it going lean and back into reduced power mode. Now that the intake manifold is actually sitting the way it is suppose to, would you have to lean it out a little????
I asked the tech's why it wasn't starting and they had no clue. They think it could be possibly be the anti theft alarm has come on and won't allow the car to start?!?!
They said they have checked spark, fuel & compression all turns out ok and that the tune they put on the car was fine. The whole starting problem began after the intake manifold was taken off and put back on again.
This is where I stand right now, lost as hell. Can you guys provide me with some kind of answer beside the anti theft alarm is keeping it from starting or is that really why the car isn't starting???? Please Help thanks
04-08-2007, 07:22 PM
#2
They would (or, should) have a pretty positive idea of why it's not starting if they are using HPTuners. That should tell you right there. I guess it could be the VATS keeping it from starting, but I'm not sure why. Was the battery disconnected at some point?
04-09-2007, 01:47 AM
#3
Try a spare key.
It not cranking over at all sure does sound like VATS. He should be able to disable it all together with HPTuners. Check the voltage at the starter and/or the starter itself. See if it's getting a signal on the small power wire (that closes the switch and makes it bust over). Sometimes **** just breaks out of the blue.
It not cranking over at all sure does sound like VATS. He should be able to disable it all together with HPTuners. Check the voltage at the starter and/or the starter itself. See if it's getting a signal on the small power wire (that closes the switch and makes it bust over). Sometimes **** just breaks out of the blue.
04-09-2007, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
Try a spare key.
It not cranking over at all sure does sound like VATS. He should be able to disable it all together with HPTuners. Check the voltage at the starter and/or the starter itself. See if it's getting a signal on the small power wire (that closes the switch and makes it bust over). Sometimes **** just breaks out of the blue.
It not cranking over at all sure does sound like VATS. He should be able to disable it all together with HPTuners. Check the voltage at the starter and/or the starter itself. See if it's getting a signal on the small power wire (that closes the switch and makes it bust over). Sometimes **** just breaks out of the blue.
Just got off from the phone with the shop said that he did turn off the anti theft system. so that is no longer the problem. He is still searching for the problem..
04-09-2007, 09:58 AM
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i have had a simular problem, and i know this is kind of an emelemtary anwer but sometimes when you get into the big stuff, the little things can be looked over...
but anyways check all your grounds and while trying to crank it grab the battery and rattle it around. LIke i said its an obvious check but you cant be too careful.
but anyways check all your grounds and while trying to crank it grab the battery and rattle it around. LIke i said its an obvious check but you cant be too careful.
04-09-2007, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by echo3313
i have had a simular problem, and i know this is kind of an emelemtary anwer but sometimes when you get into the big stuff, the little things can be looked over...
but anyways check all your grounds and while trying to crank it grab the battery and rattle it around. LIke i said its an obvious check but you cant be too careful.
but anyways check all your grounds and while trying to crank it grab the battery and rattle it around. LIke i said its an obvious check but you cant be too careful.
04-09-2007, 11:42 AM
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Well, to think about what could be damaged/disconnected with an intake swap: oil pressure sending unit, MAP sensor, knock sensors, EVAP solenoid, wiring harness for coil packs/injectors, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, IAC motor, IAT. One possibility would be the MAP sensor and knock sensors got plugged into the wrong plugs. The plugs are pretty much identical on the wiring harness. However, the car should crank at least. The fact that it won't even crank would point to something other than something that changed during an intake swap.
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04-09-2007, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by PAGregSS
The fact that it won't even crank would point to something other than something that changed during an intake swap.
Can they jump the starter to get it to crank ? is there power at the Purple wire while the key is in the start position ? Can they turn it over at the crank bolt?
If it was me, I would like the shop should be able at lease find out why it is not cranking or turning over. If it can not be turned over, it might be seized or hydro-locked (would hope it is neither of these).
Also, is this a M6 or A4 ?
04-09-2007, 12:42 PM
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Ok! Same thing happened to me. I know this sounds stupid but look for the main wire going to the fuse box. Open the box and check the connection. My shop had pulled the screw out to remove the power line for my window switch. They did not tighten the bolt all the way back in and the entire car was dead.
04-09-2007, 06:42 PM
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Hey guys this might seem really crazy but I got a call back from the shop today and it turned out too back the spark plugs. With the intake manifold sitting higher than normal and then fixing the intake manifold the tune was off causing the car to be way to rich.
Thanks for all the info though.
Thanks for all the info though.
04-09-2007, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Wait.... I thought it wouldn't even crank 
Well that was miscommunication on my part im sorry guys. The started cranked over the car just wouldn't start.
04-10-2007, 07:36 AM
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Somebody is feeding you a bunch of crap. I'd take my car from that shop and never go there again. The car should start, even with two fouled plugs and a crappy tune.
