I know this sounds stupid, because it is but what's the best way to take the Screen out of the MAF.
Cut it out, push it out?

I've seen that the MAF de-screened will pick up 40cfm over stock.

Bret

 

I just took my maf end out and then stuck a screw driver through the screen and pulled it out. By taking the end of u dont have to worry about messing up the sensor.

 

So it's just a hack job then you clean it up.

I've heard about problems when your car is Blown or Turbo but does anyone have problems with the Screen gone when the car is N/A?

Bret

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SStrokerAce:
<strong>I know this sounds stupid, because it is but what's the best way to take the Screen out of the MAF.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not stupid... I was wondering the same thing <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Take the MAF out of the car and pull out the plug. Pry on the edge of the screen with a screwdriver bend it and it will pop right out. You cannot put the screen back in but why would you want to?

 

I punched mine out with a screw driver. Don't worry about keeping the screen in tact, it probably won't happen. Just make sure not to disturb the sensors.

 

SStrokerAce,

I think the reason not to do it with a forced induction kit is because they come with the computer programming already setup, including the parameters of the stock MAF w/ screen.

I have never seen anything about n/a people having problems due to a de-screened MAF.

 

i've done it to my car and to a friends car real ly easy push screw driver from behind along sides to avoid sensors and push firmly and steadly and then do it again to the other side should break the screen once it breaks it gets really easy cause it pops straight out takes all of 10 minutes including the time takin to remove and replace intake and all the other stuff to get to the sensor not as hard as it sounds

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SStrokerAce:
<strong>So it's just a hack job then you clean it up.

I've heard about problems when your car is Blown or Turbo but does anyone have problems with the Screen gone when the car is N/A?

Bret</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I have logged my gas mileage from day 1 and i swear descreening my maf has cost me slight mileage difference, but i also flow tested all of my induction pieces, and descreen was worth 120 cfm at 20" of water! GM says screen is only needed in applications with large bends in ducting to throttle body, so LS1 f-bodys are in the clear.

 

This is interesting. I see vendors offering
"fully ported stock MAFs" claiming to give
100CFM, and it'll only set you back $289 + core.
I guess $289 for a few minutes of screwdriver
work ain't a bad living. I wonder how they
manage to lose the other 20 CFM during the
"porting" process. Heh. Porting a straight
tube... tricky, that.

I'll have to look inside my SS and see if this
factors into SLP's "performance package".

Did removing the screen affect low-end torque
any? If it affects mileage, might affect the
low end mixture control & hence torque? I'm
more interested in mid-band punch than in
screaming (this car is a keeper).

------------------------------------------------

quote:

I have logged my gas mileage from day 1 and i swear descreening my maf has cost me slight mileage difference, but i also flow tested all of my induction pieces, and descreen was worth 120 cfm at 20" of water! GM says screen is only needed in applications with large bends in ducting to throttle body, so LS1 f-bodys are in the clear

 

jimmyblue, the discrepencies in flow advertising can simply be flow pressure difference, i dont notice any low speed torque loss or accelleration difference with maf descreen, but it was worth almost 1 mph on my Z and a tenth of a second on stock motor. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

You know, I have my de-screened and ported MAF for sale in the classified section. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

That all fine and dandy...but will removing the screen mess up my NOS dry system. I still have the stock MAF on even though at one time I had a granetelli, but sold it when I heard of problems with NOS.
<img border="0" alt="[hail]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" title="" src="graemlins/camaro.gif" />

<small>[ April 09, 2002, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: Fast SS on NOS ]</small>

 

I was thinkin just today that I should hack out the screen.... Think ill do it this weekend. So no one has had bad effects of doing this? Just have to make sure
Holmez

 

You're all going to think I'm nuts but I have had no problems after I descreened mine. I just took a small phillips screwdriver and stabbed the screen from the front and popped 'er right out. I didn't hit the sensor and it has run better ever since. I wasn't careful by any means. Of course this was all before I had heard the downsides of whacking into one of the hair thin sensors. Just a little common sense and a screwdriver can get you prety far in this world. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

I actually have documented dyno results - 7 RWHP and 10 RWTQ for removing the screen, however... soon as I did that I did have a little knock up top which I easily fixed with a MAF Translator. This was on a 100 % stock car other than a Lid that I got these results.... without a MAF Translator I dont think I would have done this again out here though because knock is a PITA!

 

Very interesting, I have had no problems with mine at all. Might be because it is not quite as hot here in Florida and is much more humid. <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Drew2G2:
<strong>I was thinkin just today that I should hack out the screen.... Think ill do it this weekend. So no one has had bad effects of doing this? Just have to make sure
Holmez</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hey Holmez I told you it is very easy to do!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

its simple i did it myself after reading this thread. i tried to mess with it with the maf together but i figured why risk damaging the sensors so i took off the end and pushed the screwdriver into the edge and just popped it out. takes 5 seconds. i havent really felt anything but it looks much better behind the clear lid than with the screen in. i cant wait to get my maft hooked up then im gonna do the full porting job on it.

 

I looked inside my SS air tract last night and
it's got a big oval mouth at the lid exit, after
which it necks down, and doea an S-bend up to
the MAF. This looks prone to offset the airflow,
which I guess is the idea of the screen (which
looks pretty restrictive).

Has anyone seen something like a vane-type
airflow straightener, or a cone diffuser (more
cross-sectional area for than a flat plate
diffuser for the same screen density) for LS-1s
that might improve airflow without messing up
the MAF fidelity?

What about replacement airbox - to - MAF
bellows-hose replacements, in a smooth-interior
premolded? Maybe this is just SS/SLP wierdness
and doesn't pertain to "normal" LS-1s? In the
pics I've seen, the bend doesn't look as abrupt
as I'm seeing on mine.