WeatherGuy

I may have to rescind my earlier comments. I thought that the FIPK was switched from car to car - since it wasn't (did I read that right), then I'm not sure much was established here.

Is there anyway you can do this again and switch it from car to car?

Greg

Drew778

iTrader: (2)

Both cars were stock weight ( my car is a hard top his is T-tops), how can you be closer then to run similar cars at the same time.

How can switching Lid & FIPK back an forth and wait 40 minutes be more accurate, then running at the same time same conditions?

Does anyone else have times with a Lid & FIPK doing back to back runs???

All I can say is believe what you want to <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

2000 ws6

iTrader: (10)

I had the FIPK kit and consistently ran almost 1 full mph slower and 1 tenth slower with the fipk over my lid setup. Nasty C5, and ACZ0SIX will back me up by telling you the same thing that I was faster with my lid/free ram air setup over my Fipk kit. I was so pissed with the FIPk setup that I took a hundred dollar loss when I sold it.I only used it for 150 miles on my car. ALso Autotap showed going down the track My IAT only dropped 2 degrees with the FIPk kit and my lid/fra setup dropped 11 degrees on the same day. I know what works for me <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> lid/Free ram air all the way. <img border="0" alt="[Firebird]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" />

The Dragon

iTrader: (6)

Definitely not scientific text-book test conditions.

Although I am enjoying the friendly banter by some people <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

Every car is different! I don't know how many ways to say this. Comparing peak dyno #'s does absolutely nothing, and having two different cars with two different raceweights will throw off everything. Swapping inductions from car-to-car will give you a much better idea as to how they're working, whether you're waiting 40 minutes or not. Your car is definitely lighter; t-tops add some weight. Do you and the other driver weigh in at EXACTLY the same? Did both of you have the EXACT amount of fuel in the tank? Was he running larger tires than you (16" vs. 17")? Did you both leave the line at the exact same engine and trans temp? See my point? There are way too many variables that contribute to weight and ET that skew the figures.

Steve1969LS1

iTrader: (1)

You cant test two different systems on two different cars to compare the systems.. lol.. You could run 5 brand new SS's at the track and get 5 differnt results..

Drew778

iTrader: (2)

Well for the people that care, here are all my runs for the night.

1st run:
reac .615
60ft 2.240
1/8 8.970
mph 83.36
1/4 13.738
mph 103.18

2nd
reac .611
60ft 2.186
1/8 8.875
mph 83.33
1/4 13.643
mph 103.24

3rd
reac .760
60ft 2.125
1/8 8.915
mph 83.18
1/4 13.591
mph 102.94

4th
reac .553
60ft 2.099
1/8 8.698
mph 83.84
1/4 13.450
mph 103.40

5th
reac .596
60ft 2.041
1/8 8.612
mph 84.28
1/4 13.326
mph 104.39

Last
reac .713
60ft 2.122
1/8 8.675
mph 84.24
1/4 13.406
mph 103.73

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

hey come'on Drew.lets run em again this weekend.F1's on F1's and will both have brand new plugs.will be using ngk tr55 gapped@.049.how about it?just for fun. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

Drew778

iTrader: (2)

No problem we can race again <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

I'm sure the plugs will help out next time, my stock plugs were all above .060

when do you want to go?

I think the F1's were hooking better than your DR's, I think they need some VHT <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Maybe the Catback helped too?

Are you going to dyno again?

<small>[ April 15, 2002, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: drew778 ]</small>

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

maybe this friday.cant do it saturday cause of Pro Gas race.track will be crowded again this weekend.if not have to be next weekend.Yes will dyno again after plugs and wire changed.those bfg dr's sucks big time.have nothing else to use for now until my 15x10 weldraglites come in.might have some 16x10.5 e.t streets to buy from someone locally in a coule of days.will see.let me know if you wanna go this friday. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

If you two are going to run again, try switching intakes for at least two passes and the switching back for at least another two passes. That will give us a better idea as to how the two intakes are working if they both do the same thing on two different cars. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Drew778

iTrader: (2)

I think Fridays going to be to crazy, How does next Saturday sound?

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

No offense Drew, but those times you posted are all over the place and I'm wondering if your car would even be a good test subject at all. Borrow some slicks so at least your 60' can be consistent. I can drive my 6-speed down the track 10 times in one night and not be more than 0.02 seconds apart on each pass.

This "test" shows absolutely nothing in my opinion. Make 3 passes with the FIPK (and establish a good series of consistent ETs) then switch to a lid/K&N setup and repeat the test. This must be done on the same car! You could use two cars for this test, but have each one switch intake setups. While one is testing the lid, the other should be testing the FIPK.

Futurestrader, intake setups are basically a 10-12 rwhp mod. There really isn't anything to gain over a lid. We have tested 3" open pipes on the end of a MAF and didn't pick up anything. Nothing flows better than that. If you like your FIPK, then nobody is going to force you to get rid of it.

Tony

Damian

iTrader: (89)

As states before, this test has no real merit since the kits were tested on 2 different cars. The only true way to test this kit is to run it on the same car, same track, same day. PERIOD......

Josh

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

couldn't agree with you more.the two cars had different things on it.he had 17's street tire while I had 16's bfg dr's.had brand new plugs put in it while I was still on stock plugs.thier were other little things like how much fuel on the tank .had over 1/2 fuel on mine at the time.plus our track is shitty if you ask me.not bitchin or whining maybe because I lost.Its all fun.will line up again next weekend.T his time Ill be about even.aint that right Drew778. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

PaiN

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by drew778:
<strong>No, 2 different cars one with the Lid and one with the FIPK.

It's hard to do good runs at this track when it takes about 40 minutes to make a pass.

</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I know what you mean. Thanks for the info man!

OBSSSD

K&N FIPK VS. FTRA+LID???

yyyyyyyyaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwnnnnnnnnn...............

FUTURESTRADER

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nine Ball:
<strong>No offense Drew, but those times you posted are all over the place and I'm wondering if your car would even be a good test subject at all. Borrow some slicks so at least your 60' can be consistent. I can drive my 6-speed down the track 10 times in one night and not be more than 0.02 seconds apart on each pass.

This "test" shows absolutely nothing in my opinion. Make 3 passes with the FIPK (and establish a good series of consistent ETs) then switch to a lid/K&N setup and repeat the test. This must be done on the same car! You could use two cars for this test, but have each one switch intake setups. While one is testing the lid, the other should be testing the FIPK.

Futurestrader, intake setups are basically a 10-12 rwhp mod. There really isn't anything to gain over a lid. We have tested 3" open pipes on the end of a MAF and didn't pick up anything. Nothing flows better than that. If you like your FIPK, then nobody is going to force you to get rid of it.

Tony</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Tony, I agree with you completely, those test are inaccurate.

Testing must be done on the same car, same driver, same day, same gas in the tank, same weather, etc...there can be very little in variances, especially when talking about tenths, otherwise you cannot properly evaluate a product. I would also like to see it tested on at least 3 different cars at 3 different tracks.

If the Lid wins every time at every track, then FIPK doesn't work, however, if FIPK wins, then the reverse is true.

At least 3 runs on the same car with each product, I would only add that it has to be an A4.

I would gladly test it myself, but my car is brand new with only 2,000 miles, I'm waiting until 4,000 miles before I bring it to the track.

Hopefully, someone on this board with an A4 whose numbers are very consistent will test this soon at the track (Hopefully one of the moderators who has been around LS1's for a long time), I for one would like to know if there is any difference between a Lid/FIPK either way.

BTW, in a previous post I thought you mentioned that you closed up FRA when at the track, is that correct, and if so, are you saying that if you use a Lid, to use either just the Filter or Filter with FTRA. You've been around these LS1's a lot longer than I, I respect your opinion.

Thanks in Advance.

CHRISPY

You should do the following:
Use a car(s) with drag radials.
make three passes with LID and then switch and make three passes with FIPK on the same car.

Comparing two different cars for results is ridiculous. What would have been MUCH better is if you had made 3 passes each with the two cars in the same lane. One car running the lid for three passes in a row and one with the FIPK for three passes in a row and then switch the systems over between the cars and then make three more passes each in the same lane. That would have painted an infinitely more accurate picture of the gains/losses between the two systems.
Cheers,
Chris

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

thats how much it cost $320 bucks for the FIPK.just found out.holy ****!!! Ill stick with the lid. sorry. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />