Write up for PWS rack removal
Write up for PWS rack removal Hi, I've posted this in the general maintenance forum but got no response.
Is there a write up on how to remove the PWS rack? I've tried the search but PWS rack is pretty vague and doesnt bring up much about the rack itself and more about the PWS pump and leaks. Can anyone explain how to remove it?
Thanks in advance!
Is there a write up on how to remove the PWS rack? I've tried the search but PWS rack is pretty vague and doesnt bring up much about the rack itself and more about the PWS pump and leaks. Can anyone explain how to remove it?
Thanks in advance!
I did the following:
Remove P/S lines from the rack.
Remove the Tie-Rods from the wheel hub. I used a pickle fork and hammer as I was replacing he Tie-Rods as well.
You need to loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor up a little bit to get to one of the bolts, there are band-type clamps holding the rack to the K-member. The bolts are behind the rack. The motor mounts can be loosened with an 18mm wrench and a ratchet with an 18mm socket. I pulled the alternator out of my way (only four bolts ...15mm(3) 13mm(1)) to get to the driver side motor mount.
That should give you a good direction, keep in mind this is how I DID IT... there might be another way I'm just throwing out how I did it. Be sure to mark the orientation of the steering shaft before disconnecting the rack and count the visible threads to the Tie-Rods so you can get your car pretty close to proper alignment again.
Remove P/S lines from the rack.
Remove the Tie-Rods from the wheel hub. I used a pickle fork and hammer as I was replacing he Tie-Rods as well.
You need to loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor up a little bit to get to one of the bolts, there are band-type clamps holding the rack to the K-member. The bolts are behind the rack. The motor mounts can be loosened with an 18mm wrench and a ratchet with an 18mm socket. I pulled the alternator out of my way (only four bolts ...15mm(3) 13mm(1)) to get to the driver side motor mount.
That should give you a good direction, keep in mind this is how I DID IT... there might be another way I'm just throwing out how I did it. Be sure to mark the orientation of the steering shaft before disconnecting the rack and count the visible threads to the Tie-Rods so you can get your car pretty close to proper alignment again.
Originally Posted by Fibbado
Be sure to mark the orientation of the steering shaft before disconnecting the rack and count the visible threads to the Tie-Rods so you can get your car pretty close to proper alignment again.
Definitely make sure you do that. If not you'll be all fucked up and will have go go back and loosen **** up to adjust it.
This way will save you many headaches.
Another way to do this would be to count how many full rotations it takes for the tie rod to come off of the rack.
Jacking up the motor is going to be a huge pain in the ***. Go to the dealership, order a new rack bolt and take a hack saw to the old one. That's what I did and it didn't take long at all.
Originally Posted by rollinna65
Jacking up the motor is going to be a huge pain in the ***. Go to the dealership, order a new rack bolt and take a hack saw to the old one. That's what I did and it didn't take long at all.
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I just messed with this the other day, get a 18mm tubing wrench to take the 2 big lines off and a 11mm regular wrench to remove the bolt that holds the steering shaft in place. The 2 big bolts that hold the rack in place are 18mm.
I don't see any point in marking the steering joint as it only goes on 2 ways. Straighten the wheels and connect it. If the steering wheel is upside down, pull the joint and turn it 180* then slide it back on. Nothing special to it.
If you intend to replace the tie rods then yes, count the number of rotations or mark the threads and put them back to the same spot. The toe is so sensitive that even a 1/4 turn on one side will effect it, but doing the above will get you very close so you can drive it to a place that can set your toe back to where it should be.
Setting the toe to factory usually means a little toe-in, which is fine, but can give you a bit of slack in the steering wheel right at the middle position. I hate that. Way too much toe can cause premature locking up of the front tires and excessive wear which is very dangerous. When I ran 17" tires I gave it a tiny bit of toe-out so that the slack was gone, but it was still very stable at high speeds. When I switched to 19" tires the small amount of toe-out led to instability at speed, so I had to back it off to zero toe and it is perfect once again.
Hope that helps.
I don't see any point in marking the steering joint as it only goes on 2 ways. Straighten the wheels and connect it. If the steering wheel is upside down, pull the joint and turn it 180* then slide it back on. Nothing special to it.
If you intend to replace the tie rods then yes, count the number of rotations or mark the threads and put them back to the same spot. The toe is so sensitive that even a 1/4 turn on one side will effect it, but doing the above will get you very close so you can drive it to a place that can set your toe back to where it should be.
Setting the toe to factory usually means a little toe-in, which is fine, but can give you a bit of slack in the steering wheel right at the middle position. I hate that. Way too much toe can cause premature locking up of the front tires and excessive wear which is very dangerous. When I ran 17" tires I gave it a tiny bit of toe-out so that the slack was gone, but it was still very stable at high speeds. When I switched to 19" tires the small amount of toe-out led to instability at speed, so I had to back it off to zero toe and it is perfect once again.
Hope that helps.
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