Middle of header install, need some help...
06-13-2007, 11:10 AM
#21
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Not too sure if it will come off with the cat, i took mine off, but broke all the bolts in the process which was not a big deal. The dipstick on mine just pulled right out with a but of a tug. For the back coil bracket bolt you have to work a bit blind. I used a stuby 10mm wrench and it worked like a charm. Its a bitch to do but deffenitly a good idea it opens the whole thing up.
06-13-2007, 11:54 AM
#22
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yes it should come out with the cat on, however, you are going to need to get the car up really high, I am talking rears on ramps front on stands, and maybe even a full jack with a 4x4 on the k member, but it will go, you hvae to turn it towards the driver side as you remove it. good luck,
yes 1 3/8 freeze plug is correct, make sure it is expandable to 1.5
get a set of tr55's while you there with the coil packs off.
also +1 on leaving the rear passenger side bolt off. the coil pack are held on by the studs that do not have the points there should be five on the passenger side.
if your having trouble with the drive side header, stick a 2x4 on the oil pan near the edge of the drive side, jack the motor up so only pressure is on the drive side, you'll see the motor pivot a bit, and the driver side header will slide in, no need to remove the steering knukle, if you really feel like it, then you also need to remove the rack to get enough play to seperate the two, for that you need to loosen the 2 19mm in front of the k-member, and a crow bar to pry the rack off the k-member.
also very good tip here, since your arms are completely cut to hell, now is a good time to trim those little black plastic xmas tree fasteners on the underside of the cowl.
yes 1 3/8 freeze plug is correct, make sure it is expandable to 1.5
get a set of tr55's while you there with the coil packs off.
also +1 on leaving the rear passenger side bolt off. the coil pack are held on by the studs that do not have the points there should be five on the passenger side.
if your having trouble with the drive side header, stick a 2x4 on the oil pan near the edge of the drive side, jack the motor up so only pressure is on the drive side, you'll see the motor pivot a bit, and the driver side header will slide in, no need to remove the steering knukle, if you really feel like it, then you also need to remove the rack to get enough play to seperate the two, for that you need to loosen the 2 19mm in front of the k-member, and a crow bar to pry the rack off the k-member.
also very good tip here, since your arms are completely cut to hell, now is a good time to trim those little black plastic xmas tree fasteners on the underside of the cowl.
06-13-2007, 04:42 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by daryl2cb@yahoo.com
yes it should come out with the cat on, however, you are going to need to get the car up really high, I am talking rears on ramps front on stands, and maybe even a full jack with a 4x4 on the k member, but it will go, you hvae to turn it towards the driver side as you remove it. good luck,
yes 1 3/8 freeze plug is correct, make sure it is expandable to 1.5
get a set of tr55's while you there with the coil packs off.
also +1 on leaving the rear passenger side bolt off. the coil pack are held on by the studs that do not have the points there should be five on the passenger side.
if your having trouble with the drive side header, stick a 2x4 on the oil pan near the edge of the drive side, jack the motor up so only pressure is on the drive side, you'll see the motor pivot a bit, and the driver side header will slide in, no need to remove the steering knukle, if you really feel like it, then you also need to remove the rack to get enough play to seperate the two, for that you need to loosen the 2 19mm in front of the k-member, and a crow bar to pry the rack off the k-member.
also very good tip here, since your arms are completely cut to hell, now is a good time to trim those little black plastic xmas tree fasteners on the underside of the cowl.
yes 1 3/8 freeze plug is correct, make sure it is expandable to 1.5
get a set of tr55's while you there with the coil packs off.
also +1 on leaving the rear passenger side bolt off. the coil pack are held on by the studs that do not have the points there should be five on the passenger side.
if your having trouble with the drive side header, stick a 2x4 on the oil pan near the edge of the drive side, jack the motor up so only pressure is on the drive side, you'll see the motor pivot a bit, and the driver side header will slide in, no need to remove the steering knukle, if you really feel like it, then you also need to remove the rack to get enough play to seperate the two, for that you need to loosen the 2 19mm in front of the k-member, and a crow bar to pry the rack off the k-member.
also very good tip here, since your arms are completely cut to hell, now is a good time to trim those little black plastic xmas tree fasteners on the underside of the cowl.
06-13-2007, 05:10 PM
#25
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Definitely do plugs while the headers are out, so easy.
I would recommend header studs if you can get some. You think getting the bolts out is hard, wait until you have to put them back in.
I would recommend header studs if you can get some. You think getting the bolts out is hard, wait until you have to put them back in.
06-13-2007, 05:18 PM
#26
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I dont think getting them out has been that hard, the angles are awkward, so once you get to them its not always easy to get leverage to break them lose.
06-13-2007, 05:34 PM
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you dont need to loosen the rack either, to get the steering knuckle off. just loosen the lower bolt, and take teh top one all the way out, smack it upwards with a hammer, and it will slide up teh steering shaft far enough to pop it off the rack.
06-13-2007, 08:49 PM
#28
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Anyone have any nifty methods for getting the y pipe out of the cat back? It doesnt appear to be welded, but its stuck in there pretty good.
06-13-2007, 10:26 PM
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After you remove your EGR and put the plug in your manifold. What do you do with the with plug that plugs into the EGR? You unplug it and then do what with the other end? zip tie out of the way or something?
thanks
thanks
06-13-2007, 10:28 PM
#32
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Yeah, zip tie it or tape it back onto the harness. You could also cut the plug out and cap the wires. But being in NY (the land of No), I would just zip tie it back. No telling what the NYS Smog ****'s will be doing next. Roadside checks of your emissions equipment? Glad I moved to a non-emissions state.
06-13-2007, 10:30 PM
#33
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If your talking about the electrical plug that goes into the canister thing, its just hanging there, if your talking about the canister itself, theres a hose that goes into the passenger side manifold and if you undue that the whole canister comes out.
06-14-2007, 01:18 AM
#34
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Welp, I just finished the header install, minus the y pipe since my old one wont come off...
-Passenger side manifold was a BITCH to get out
-Driver side manifold came right out
-Passenger side header went in like a dream
-Driver side header was a BITCH...it was about 1230am when we got to it, so we used a file with no handle to file the tab that sticks out of the block lol
-Broke a header bolt
-I have a ghetto rigged plug made of duct tape and a elbow from the air system plugging up the air hole in the slp lid lol...until I get a real plug
-We finished at 2am, rolled it out of the garage and started it. It started up fine even after removing egr/air. Didnt seem to have any leaks, but I only let it idle for about 5 minutes, what an obnoxious smell!! But it sounds glorious, Im gonna post a video of it before I get the y pipe put on.
All in all it went fairly smoothly, a lot easier than my mustang since I didnt have to drop the kmember.
Quick question, are open headers gonna be a problem? Im gonna have to drive it to the shop to get the y pipe put on. Ive read mixed feelings about it, but the car seemed to idle just fine. Let me know!
-Passenger side manifold was a BITCH to get out
-Driver side manifold came right out
-Passenger side header went in like a dream
-Driver side header was a BITCH...it was about 1230am when we got to it, so we used a file with no handle to file the tab that sticks out of the block lol
-Broke a header bolt
-I have a ghetto rigged plug made of duct tape and a elbow from the air system plugging up the air hole in the slp lid lol...until I get a real plug
-We finished at 2am, rolled it out of the garage and started it. It started up fine even after removing egr/air. Didnt seem to have any leaks, but I only let it idle for about 5 minutes, what an obnoxious smell!! But it sounds glorious, Im gonna post a video of it before I get the y pipe put on.
All in all it went fairly smoothly, a lot easier than my mustang since I didnt have to drop the kmember.
Quick question, are open headers gonna be a problem? Im gonna have to drive it to the shop to get the y pipe put on. Ive read mixed feelings about it, but the car seemed to idle just fine. Let me know!
06-14-2007, 05:58 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by motoo344
Welp, I just finished the header install, minus the y pipe since my old one wont come off...
-Passenger side manifold was a BITCH to get out
-Driver side manifold came right out
-Passenger side header went in like a dream
-Driver side header was a BITCH...it was about 1230am when we got to it, so we used a file with no handle to file the tab that sticks out of the block lol
-Broke a header bolt
-I have a ghetto rigged plug made of duct tape and a elbow from the air system plugging up the air hole in the slp lid lol...until I get a real plug
-We finished at 2am, rolled it out of the garage and started it. It started up fine even after removing egr/air. Didnt seem to have any leaks, but I only let it idle for about 5 minutes, what an obnoxious smell!! But it sounds glorious, Im gonna post a video of it before I get the y pipe put on.
All in all it went fairly smoothly, a lot easier than my mustang since I didnt have to drop the kmember.
Quick question, are open headers gonna be a problem? Im gonna have to drive it to the shop to get the y pipe put on. Ive read mixed feelings about it, but the car seemed to idle just fine. Let me know!
-Passenger side manifold was a BITCH to get out
-Driver side manifold came right out
-Passenger side header went in like a dream
-Driver side header was a BITCH...it was about 1230am when we got to it, so we used a file with no handle to file the tab that sticks out of the block lol
-Broke a header bolt
-I have a ghetto rigged plug made of duct tape and a elbow from the air system plugging up the air hole in the slp lid lol...until I get a real plug
-We finished at 2am, rolled it out of the garage and started it. It started up fine even after removing egr/air. Didnt seem to have any leaks, but I only let it idle for about 5 minutes, what an obnoxious smell!! But it sounds glorious, Im gonna post a video of it before I get the y pipe put on.
All in all it went fairly smoothly, a lot easier than my mustang since I didnt have to drop the kmember.
Quick question, are open headers gonna be a problem? Im gonna have to drive it to the shop to get the y pipe put on. Ive read mixed feelings about it, but the car seemed to idle just fine. Let me know!
it'll be ok, just don't drive anywhere else, just to the exhaust shop.
Tuck the EGR connector back and zip tie it down...no need to cut wires. Just forget about it basically.
Congrats, make sure to go over all the bolts again with another pass tightening them down, don't do it too tight if you don't "know" how tight is too tight.
06-14-2007, 06:26 AM
#36
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Open headers? Where are the oxygen sensors? The pre-cat ones need to be there, post-cat ones not so much. You will get an SES light if they aren't hooked up.
The exhaust bolts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs, but I'm assuming you don't have a torque wrench. You should've put some anti seize on the threads as it makes it easier to remove them later. And the Stage 8 header bolts make you not need to torque them repeatedly as they lock into place. Just some thoughts. Congrats on the install.
The exhaust bolts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs, but I'm assuming you don't have a torque wrench. You should've put some anti seize on the threads as it makes it easier to remove them later. And the Stage 8 header bolts make you not need to torque them repeatedly as they lock into place. Just some thoughts. Congrats on the install.
06-14-2007, 09:04 AM
#37
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Ya, no rear o2's, the front o2's are in there, Id imagine if it did not have front ones it wouldnt run. The front ones are in the collector.
