what do i need when i install my xs headers

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Jun 18, 2007 | 11:47 AM

Ripper415

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what do i need when i install my xs headers

ok guys, i'm gonna have some time off from work about 2 weeks from now and i figured the downtime would allow me to finally install my xs headers/ory. i've been reading up on how to do this and what is required and i know that since i'll eventually be getting the rear o2's tuned out i wont have to worry about them and will just run w/ the check engine light on for now (which shouldn't affect performance in any way, right?).

however, i will need front o2 extensions. what size extensions will i need to get (i think i've read about people using 2 24" but i've also seen where people said they used 1 12" and 1 24"?).

also, would it make sense to get some stainless steel band clamps incase i encounter some fitment issues and/or exhaust leaks? to me, the non-stainless clamps that came with the kit didn't look that great so should i just ditch them and use all stainless band clamps or have people installed these headers/ory using the ones that were included?

Jun 18, 2007 | 01:50 PM

EvoWake

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You're going to want to get some stainless band clamps, the stock hardware is junk. If your install goes like mine, you'll also be swearing at xs's retarted engineers that couldn't even get the exit angle of the driver side header correct, which in turn, pushes your y pipe straight up into the floorboards, creating rattles, and oh yea, the driver side collector doesnt completley get covered by the slip of the y, so unless you are happy with a band clamp covering a leak, you'll be headed to an exhaust shop.

Sorry.. after my install, i wish i would have spent a few hundred more on stainlessworks or some other brand. I really hope your install goes much better. Keep us posted. Also either 12 or 24 will work, 24's cant hurt though. good luck!

Jun 18, 2007 | 01:53 PM

ONEBADASSWS6

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ripper415

The Check Engine Light code for the rear O2's will have no effect on performance. Its only for emmissions.

Quote:

however, i will need front o2 extensions. what size extensions will i need to get (i think i've read about people using 2 24" but i've also seen where people said they used 1 12" and 1 24"?).

You will need (1) 12" and (1) 24" extension. You can use (2) 24" extensions, but the shorter side (passenger or driver, don't remember which) will have about 12" of slack in it, which is not desirable.

Another option is to just replace the O2 sensors completely. If you have about 75K miles or more on your car, they could use to be replaced anyway. What you can do is get the Bosch 13111's, which have extra long harnesses that don't require extensions. So you can just hook them right up. They are also supposed to have better heaters in them then the stock O2's, which is supposed to help eliminate the "slow switching" code than many people get with Long Tubes. No sense in spending $50 on O2 extensions, only to have to replace the O2 anyway due to them being worn out. Thats what I did, learn from my mistake

Quote:

also, would it make sense to get some stainless steel band clamps incase i encounter some fitment issues and/or exhaust leaks? to me, the non-stainless clamps that came with the kit didn't look that great so should i just ditch them and use all stainless band clamps or have people installed these headers/ory using the ones that were included?

Go with some quality stainless band clamps (the wide ones). They will keep everything sealed nicely, and they won't crinkle the pipes like regular exhaust clamps will.

Jun 18, 2007 | 01:57 PM

ONEBADASSWS6

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EvoWake

I had the same issue with my SS headers. However, the headers themselves fit perfectly. No notching the K-member, pulling the starter, or removing the steering shaft, which seems to be a common occurance, even on $800 headers. The Y-pipe was the only problem, like you said, the drivers side header is angles upwards which prevents proper fitment of the Y-pipe. If the Y had a slight downward bend in it after the collector, it would have fit much better. I decided to just have mine redone at an exhaust shop, and get rid of the Y-pipe all together and go with true duals.

Jun 18, 2007 | 02:43 PM

motoo344

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You can go with both 24 inch extensions or get a 12 and 24.(I have a 12 and 24 inch if your interested in buying them, never used) Id suggest getting new header studs also. Everything will eventually go in, you just have to have patience. The only clearincing problem I had was with the tab on the block, on the drivers side, I didnt have anything to cut it with, so I just filed it for like 45 minutes lol. The y pipe is a pain in the ***, just loosen the cat back and have it on a jack so you can slide it around and the y pipe should go in fairly easily.

Jun 18, 2007 | 03:09 PM

Ashes

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I had the same issue with the y-pipe as well, but it took the exhaust less then an hour to get everything fitting nice. I used one 12" and one 24" extension as well. I didn't use any band clamps in mine though, exhaust shop just welded it up all nice and tight.

Jun 19, 2007 | 07:03 PM

Ripper415

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thanks for the replies guys. these y pipe problems have got me a bit worried, but i guess i'll just have to try my best and hope everything works out. so the consesus is that i dont need 2) 24" extensions, just 1) 12" and 1) 24". i'd rather buy both 24" and tie one of them up than have the 12" be a hair too short, but if everyone on here says the 12" will have enough length than i trust you guys