well it was in traffic and i missed a shift but from a thirty roll i got stuck looking at an ss spoiler i wasnt laying into it that much anyway do to traffic ahead.(at least thats what i tell my self) so any how heres what i got:2002 z m6 1) carbon fiber driveshaft
2) slp loudmouth
3) stealth air box(i need a different bellows the one that came with it is like stretchy rubber and it constricts on itself at least 30%....any ideas?)
4)tybrne tubular sfc

now weather permitting 2morrow i want to do some free mods.
1)throttle body coolant bybass (no brainer)
2)remove sparetire and replace with fix a flat(got two cans just incase)anything else that can go with out fudging up the looks or options?
3)throttle body bumpstop(now this i need to know 2 things what voltage do i not want to pass and what wires am i reading for the voltage?)
4)should i get an asp pulley or predator or both?(its a 2002 with a 6yr warranty and 5587 miles on the clock so going headers and such is not happening for now) or should i go lightweight rod end control arms and panhard bar?(i know not much for straight line but they look cool and are lite!

anyinfo would be most welcome! at least i smoked the slammed focus with the 6" fart pipe!
thanks!

 

If you dont plan on adding an aftermarket system, get both the pullies (crank, and alternator). Go with a gm hotcam, and have the dealer to install it for you. A friend had his dealer install that cam for him and he kept his warranty. Ported TB, !CATS!, Gears, and a good set of brake pads (hate to see something happen in a trafic race because of not being able to stop by a couple of feet)

 

1) Gears are one of the best mods for a M6 car. I went up to 3.73s quite soon after I got the car and it REALLY livened it up. You don't really cut gas mileage either (80mph curse in 6th is just under 2000 RPM). I went some 450 miles on a full take of gas on a road trip a while back.

2) The ASP underdrive crank pulley is a nice upgrade (engine spins up faster). If you get it, also get the overdrive pulley for the alternator. You don't loose that much power spinning it at factory speed (most power gain is from water pump, AC, and power steering) and you prevent having charging issues.

3) Aftermarket LCAs and a torque are will really help from a stand still (very good for straight line) or going around corners (if you get rod end LCAs) but at 30mph on the highway (that race you had), they are not going to do much more than the factory units will.

4) A cam is always a good power adder but it’s expensive to do. I would say wait on that one till your saved up and don't mind putting a hot enough cam that you can be happy with. A number of times people have put the hotcam in, only to find it didn't give the performance increase they wanted. Then they end up swapping it for something else and have nothing to show for the money spent the first time around (note: there are a lot of people who have and like it.....).

5) That guy who got his dealer to install his cam for him was LUCKY!!!! I went and talked to several people at the dealership I go to (they don't mind the headers, the gear, the TB, etc....), showed them the part number in the GM performance parts catalog, offered to pay for all the parts and labor, and they still said "We WILL NOT install a cam. If you install any cam, the warranty on the engine IS GONE. We will however upgrade the LS6 springs (when changing pushrods) since they are an upgrade that was used on a production engine."

6) Have you changed the shifter? A good short shifter will really improve your shift reliability. I went with the Pro 5.0 and am VERY happy with it. I also cut the handle down as much as I could to make the throw even shorter.

7) If you live somewhere that you can get away without CATs (ex: here is AZ they don’t tail pipe test 1996 and up….only OBD2 port check with a scanner), you can gut out the factory units and put O2 sims in. I did this before I did headers (also had a Loudmouth at the time) and it really opened up the high end hp (butt-o-meter). Only down side, it will get quite loud (I set of alarms before I even entered parking garages with it that way).

If I think of anything else I'll post up (its late now...need sleep....).

Chris

 

thanks for the advice. im really trying right now not to crack into my engine because as soon as i do something unrelated will happen and you know theyll void my warranty! this is the first new car i ever bought and people keep sayng "why do you keep screwing with a new car?" and i simply reply "because i can" wish i had a dyno around cause my z just seems to be lacking power . its very hard for me to get my tires to break loose in third and i read posts of other nearly stockers having no problem of this.
think i might order a pulley and predator for now. then in 3 or 4 years ill get a reall progream like edit or who knows by then someone might have just as good programmer out with better support? next summer ill shoot for some 3.73's.(any idea of an @ install cost on gears in the north east area?)
thanks

 

In your situation I would consider the following (since you've already done the basic intake and exhaust mods):
1) 1.85 rockers, new springs, and hardened pushrods (dealer will never be able to tell) - it'll be like a bigger cam without breaking into the engine or changing idle characteristics.
2) LS1Edit and Autotap - sounds like you might be able to free up some additional power with a good tune.
3) Gears - although I'd be wary in the 10-bolt, something like 3.73's would be a good improvement and should hold up better than the 4.10's.
4) Shorty headers - not as much of a gain as LT's or mids, but emissions legal and shouldn't affect your warranty (obviously you'll want to check with your dealer).

These are all relatively simple mods with little to no downside and easily hidden from the dealer.

 

How hard is it to add the 1.85 rockers, new springs, and hardened pushrods? How much hp cna you expect to see from doing that? Just curious...

 

Pretty easy. All you gotta do is take the valve covers off, and it's all right there.