holy cow. yeah thats not right. you def. need adj. lower control arms. weird, never seen it that extreme. wonder if the holes just arent drilled right? have you searched in the chassis/suspension forum? Id find out over there if thats normal, or poss. you got a set thats drilled wrong maybe? just dont drive it like that.

what happens if you tighten them up when the car is unloaded? (up in the air, no weight on tires) try that.

 

Mine looks about the same. I wondered at first but it drives fine and hooks real good. I've driven around for about three years that way and had no problems. I have mine bolted in the bottom hole (Spohn arms and brackets with an adjustable Spohn torque arm) and the ride is stiff, but I have not had any wheel hop or tire rubbing yet (26-10.5-16 MT Streets and 275/40/17 Nittos). It has been good enough for the car to get into the 11s bolt on only so unless the look bothers run it as is. You can always buy the adjustable control arms later.

 

That does look like its pushin it. How about a pic of the bracket itself, maybe there is something you overlooked on it.

 

well i have tried adjusting it everyway. with load on it, without load, tightening the shock bolt first then last in the bottom hole and the top one and still looks like that. ill post a pic of the bracket itsself in a bit

 

Those relocation brackets are for cars that are having lowering springs put in them those relocation brackets help compensate for the lowered springs and that lower hole in the bracket the bottom one that is for more traction so the differential goes into the ground while the body goes up for less squatting better traction but you don't need relocation bars if you have the stock ride height I would get rid of the relocation brackets put the new control arms in the stock location

 

Then see if that helps it re center liking at the pics it looks like it's not lowered very much ....my TA is so low it's about and inch from the fender damn ear lol maybe inch and a quarter