which epoxy to use on TB
The goo doesn't matter as much as adhesion does,
and that means texture and cleanliness. Scuff up
everything you can where the epoxy is to mate,
clean it triple-good with acetone, and build it
up patiently - work the walls until you see 100%
"wetting", make her want it, know what I'm saying?
It helps (or adds luck, however you look at it) to
have the epoxy go around corners to have a hard
mechanical "keep" too. I made little foil dams to
just barely keep the epoxy off finished seats but
fill as much as possible. Sealed these with just
a bit of JB, let them cure, then it's a leak-tight
seal that won't let any by.
Since JB slumps a lot I took like 8 layers to get
mine built up proud to the surface, with a bake
in the kitchen oven to accelerate cure I got 2
layers a night with good tack left for the next
"pour". The appeal of the hard putty is that you
just squish it in there and let it cure 'til
tomorrow. But you still have to make it stick.
Took less than hour start to finish...
Tommy
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Thanks,

Thanks,
Also try this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...o=&fpart=1
Those who port for $ probably won't specify what they use, however.
Expect to have at least 2 days downtime or more and take your time. I found re-drilling the IAC inlet to roughly 3/8" worked best -for me- for a smoother idle. The bypass hole (pcv?) needn't be as large. That's all I can think of after a 12 1/2 hr shift.
Oh yeah, clay can be used to fill the IAC passage section that you may not want to fill, or you can fill up to the IAC stepper seat and drill through to your inlet hole.
Expect to have at least 2 days downtime or more and take your time.
Aluminum expoxy is REALLY easy to work with.
Tommy



