SLP Pulley install...how to.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 4
From: Burbank, Illinois
SLP Pulley install...how to. I am going to Speedinc to pick up my SLP underdrive pulley. I have tried the search but it is not working. Can anyone give me some instructions,do's and DONT's so I can install the pulley? I have access to air tools. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Thanks
Do torque the bolt to spec. If you use the GM bolt, it is torque to yield, so keep that in mind (you'll need to replace the one you took off with a new one). There is a specific torque for it (70 ft-lbs + 140 or so degrees of turn after that). If you use an ARP harmonic balancer bolt, it gets torqued to 240 ft-lbs of torque. Don't rely on an impact wrench being enough to tighten it down.
www.ls1howto.com has a good write-up on how to remove the stocker and install a new one. I'd also highly recommend buying an install tool from 618Hawk on this board...look around in the tools and fabrication section for details.
www.ls1howto.com has a good write-up on how to remove the stocker and install a new one. I'd also highly recommend buying an install tool from 618Hawk on this board...look around in the tools and fabrication section for details.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 4
From: Burbank, Illinois
Thanks!!
I will be purchasing a new GM bolt, So I remove the pulley, then I use the old bolt to tighten it to 240 ft lbs, then I remove it. And tighten the new bolt to 70ft lbs, plus 140 deg?
Is this about right?
I will be purchasing a new GM bolt, So I remove the pulley, then I use the old bolt to tighten it to 240 ft lbs, then I remove it. And tighten the new bolt to 70ft lbs, plus 140 deg?
Is this about right?
I bought that from speed inc. as well. Make sure you buy a longer bolt or you can run into some trouble. The instructions that come with the pulley say to thread the pulley on with the stock bolt but you can only grab a few threads and it's very hard to get with the stock one. Then your supposed to torque it and I then remove the bolt and replace with the new one then torque that and leave it. Mine some how got messed up. I torqued the stock one on and then started to back it off and it turned a couple of times and then stopped and we couldnt get it off. We tried every thing and it wouldnt budge. I really dont think it stripped because we made sure it grabbed some threads first but I guess I'll find out when its time for a cam. Make sure you get a pulley puller as well that will save you a ton of head aches. Its nice if you have a small racheting strap that you can tie around the pulley to the A arm so that the pulley dosent turn when you loosen and tight the bolt. also leave it in gear with the parking brake on. Good luck.
The longer bolt will be used to help install it if you choose not to get the pulley install tool I referenced in my original post. It will not be used for the final torque.
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is it possible to put the pulley on too far? i bought one of the install tools from the site and it worked wonders. i cranked it down pretty much as tight as i could. i just dont' want to go too far.
Not too sure, but I'd assume that the 240 ft-lbs the ARP bolt requires would ensure that it was seated as far as it could possibly go against the crank. Not sure if you could go too far.
Originally Posted by cals400ex
is it possible to put the pulley on too far? i bought one of the install tools from the site and it worked wonders. i cranked it down pretty much as tight as i could. i just dont' want to go too far.
I don't think you will have a problem with it going on too far. I used this puller from autozone, its for a late model chrysler, works great. I also used a longer bolt to get it started, and heated it in the oven as said.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...alancer007.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...konia/bolt.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...alancer007.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...konia/bolt.jpg
i beleive you can go to far,,,,SLP instructions for that pulley call for recessed in to the crank bore,,,2.4 to 4.8mm,,not sure as i have not done this install yet,,just going off what the SLP instructions state.
I did like 300* for 20 minutes or so, not glowing red, haha. It was hot even with mechanix gloves on. I took some pics of mine before I took it off.
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...alancer003.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...alancer005.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...alancer003.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...alancer005.jpg