Crossthreaded my harmonic balancer bolt
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From: KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI
Crossthreaded my harmonic balancer bolt what are my options? I hand threaded my ARP bolt in and started tightening it to get the pulley to seat. didn't seem like it was doing much so I tried to back it out and it will NOT come back any farther.It flexes the crank when I try to loosen it. I'm using a 2ft breakover bar and the flexplate is locked. 
I dout you cross threaded it. you cant get a offset angle form the design of the hole. But regarless, trash can lock/gaul the threads.
Hopfull you have a pulley with a keyway. So take the red sraw and get some WD40.pbblaster, any thin pen, lube. Down there.
see if the bolt will go in a little, should go in 1/4 turn then get locked up again. More spray. that tightn it agian, and keep working it, and you widen then locked up spot.
Get the FUBAR bolt out, then take a stock bolt, and make a chaser bolt. Put 2-3 cutoff wheel slots in the threads like a tap. And with greese put that in a few turns, take it out and see how it looks. clean it off. If the bolt is messed up. get another used crank bolt, and do the same. I know you probally dont have 2-3 stock crank bolts around, but ther softer then the crank So its best to use them. I hope the ARP isnt harder then the crank thread, you might be fucked then. One of the resons I like useing a softer bolt then the crank threads.
Hopfull you have a pulley with a keyway. So take the red sraw and get some WD40.pbblaster, any thin pen, lube. Down there.
see if the bolt will go in a little, should go in 1/4 turn then get locked up again. More spray. that tightn it agian, and keep working it, and you widen then locked up spot.
Get the FUBAR bolt out, then take a stock bolt, and make a chaser bolt. Put 2-3 cutoff wheel slots in the threads like a tap. And with greese put that in a few turns, take it out and see how it looks. clean it off. If the bolt is messed up. get another used crank bolt, and do the same. I know you probally dont have 2-3 stock crank bolts around, but ther softer then the crank So its best to use them. I hope the ARP isnt harder then the crank thread, you might be fucked then. One of the resons I like useing a softer bolt then the crank threads.
Originally Posted by studderin
I dout you cross threaded it. you cant get a offset angle form the design of the hole. But regarless, trash can lock/gaul the threads.
Hopfull you have a pulley with a keyway. So take the red sraw and get some WD40.pbblaster, any thin pen, lube. Down there.
see if the bolt will go in a little, should go in 1/4 turn then get locked up again. More spray. that tightn it agian, and keep working it, and you widen then locked up spot.
Get the FUBAR bolt out, then take a stock bolt, and make a chaser bolt. Put 2-3 cutoff wheel slots in the threads like a tap. And with greese put that in a few turns, take it out and see how it looks. clean it off. If the bolt is messed up. get another used crank bolt, and do the same. I know you probally dont have 2-3 stock crank bolts around, but ther softer then the crank So its best to use them. I hope the ARP isnt harder then the crank thread, you might be fucked then. One of the resons I like useing a softer bolt then the crank threads.
Hopfull you have a pulley with a keyway. So take the red sraw and get some WD40.pbblaster, any thin pen, lube. Down there.
see if the bolt will go in a little, should go in 1/4 turn then get locked up again. More spray. that tightn it agian, and keep working it, and you widen then locked up spot.
Get the FUBAR bolt out, then take a stock bolt, and make a chaser bolt. Put 2-3 cutoff wheel slots in the threads like a tap. And with greese put that in a few turns, take it out and see how it looks. clean it off. If the bolt is messed up. get another used crank bolt, and do the same. I know you probally dont have 2-3 stock crank bolts around, but ther softer then the crank So its best to use them. I hope the ARP isnt harder then the crank thread, you might be fucked then. One of the resons I like useing a softer bolt then the crank threads.
Originally Posted by waldershrek
Let me be the first to say your grammar ******* sucks to the point your post is confusing. Spell check works wonders
Its a ******* automotive forum, go nit pick somwhere else, like a english forum
Not many options. You have to get the bolt out before you can do anything else. Eat your wheaties and get after it with a 4 ft. cheater. Once you get it out you might get lucky and be able to clean up the crank threads with a tap, doubtful though. This is the reason you don't pull it on with a bolt, it's best to use a long stud. Put the spark plugs in if they are out, makes the engine more resistant to turn. You aren't flexing the crankshaft. What do you have the flexplate locked down with?
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From: KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI
Tried an impact at 200psi and it wouldn't even move it either. I have a drift pin run through a convertor bolt hole then wedged against one of the ears on the back of the motor. I just don't understand how it got so tight the pulley is only on the crank about a 1/2 inch at most. The bearing surface that rides in the seal is probably 3/16 away from touching. I've installed 6 of these things and have never had any problems.
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I suspect since the stock crank bolt screwed in without a hitch but the ARP bolt wouldn't is because the ARP threads are different. The ARP bolt is harder than the crank and you are actually attempting to cut new threads and did so for a 1/2 inch. A tap is slotted to allow for the cut metal, but with the ARP the metal being recut has no where to go and it's bound at 1/2 inch.
But I had the correct thread size you say? Probably not because of a packaging error. A 5/16 SAE will thread into a 5/16 metric about a 1/4 inch before it stops - for example.
If it's in only a 1/2 inch you are lucky. I would just cut it off and drill it out then retap it. I would cut it before attemping to snap it off with a breaker bar.
Removing the fan shroud is fairly easy and quick and will get you extra room to work.
But I had the correct thread size you say? Probably not because of a packaging error. A 5/16 SAE will thread into a 5/16 metric about a 1/4 inch before it stops - for example.
If it's in only a 1/2 inch you are lucky. I would just cut it off and drill it out then retap it. I would cut it before attemping to snap it off with a breaker bar.
Removing the fan shroud is fairly easy and quick and will get you extra room to work.
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From: KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI
Originally Posted by dlandsvZ28
I suspect since the stock crank bolt screwed in without a hitch but the ARP bolt wouldn't is because the ARP threads are different. The ARP bolt is harder than the crank and you are actually attempting to cut new threads and did so for a 1/2 inch. A tap is slotted to allow for the cut metal, but with the ARP the metal being recut has no where to go and it's bound at 1/2 inch.
But I had the correct thread size you say? Probably not because of a packaging error.
If it's in only a 1/2 inch you are lucky. I would just cut it off and drill it out then retap it. I would cut it before attemping to snap it off with a breaker bar.
Removing the fan shroud is fairly easy and quick and will get you extra room to work.
But I had the correct thread size you say? Probably not because of a packaging error.
If it's in only a 1/2 inch you are lucky. I would just cut it off and drill it out then retap it. I would cut it before attemping to snap it off with a breaker bar.
Removing the fan shroud is fairly easy and quick and will get you extra room to work.
Last edited by pirate3; Jul 15, 2007 at 03:26 PM.
Bringing back the dead.. same problem. I found this and once again y'all saved my ***! Can't think all the people on here who have been doing this, long enough to know their crap.. enough!! Thx!
