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AIR pump removal

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Old May 26, 2003 | 04:21 PM
  #1  
Bad Blu Formula's Avatar
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Default AIR pump removal

I've removed mine, and as usual the SES light came on after a while. Does that mean that I have an exhaust leak because the hose isn't hooked up into the pump anymore? What should I do to fix it if there really is an exhaust leak?
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Old May 26, 2003 | 05:37 PM
  #2  
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From: las vegas, nev
Default Re: AIR pump removal

is the code P0410? if so, its just because the pump isnt pluged in and has no adverse effects on anything
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Old May 27, 2003 | 11:15 PM
  #3  
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From: Orlando
Default Re: AIR pump removal

If you pulled all the hoses and blocked off the fittings on the exhaust, don't worry. I wouldn't leave any open hoses laying around. Pull them and do the block-off's. No problem!
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Old May 28, 2003 | 11:12 AM
  #4  
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From: Tomball, TX
Default Re: AIR pump removal

does anyone know if not having the AIR pump hooked up and functional will have any effect on the catalytic converters? I run cats throughout the summer months when I'm not hitting the track very often, and I'd like to not burn them out, but I would REALLY like to get the stupid AIR tubes out of the way.
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Old May 28, 2003 | 12:56 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: AIR pump removal

Yes. Removing this and the EGR system I'm highly against.

Here is a little reading on Secondary A.I.R. system. Removing it has NO performance gain to be had and only hurts you as it takes the cats longer to heat up without the AIR injection therefore slowing the time it takes for the PCM to go back into closed loop operation.

This is right from GM. Surely these guys know a few more things than us garage warriors.

Secondary AIR Injection System Description

The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system helps reduce Hydrocarbon (HC), Carbon Monoxide (CO), and Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx) exhaust emissions. It also heats up the warm up 3-way catalytic converters quickly on engine start-up so conversion of exhaust gases can occur sooner.

The system includes the following:

- AIR pump - The AIR pump is mounted to the lower left front of the engine Compartment and supplies the air to the AIR system. The electric air pump pressurizes fresh air and pumps it to the check valves near the exhaust manifolds. The AIR pump is controlled by the PCM. Battery voltage to the AIR pump is controlled by the AIR pump relay. An integral stop valve prevents air flow through the pump during OFF periods. When the PCM provides a ground circuit for the secondary AIR pump relay, battery voltage is allowed to power up the AIR pump and integral stop valve.

- Vacuum Bleed Valve - This valve helps prevent vacuum buildup within the AIR system, which could prevent the integral stop valve from opening. The bleed valve is controlled by the air pump relay and is energized when the AIR pump is commanded ON. If the vacuum relief system is not functioning, the vacuum will cause the AIR pump integral stop valve not to open. This may result in no air flow to the exhaust manifolds or delay the delivery of air which may not allow the diagnostic to pass.

- Check valves - The check valves prevent back flow of exhaust gases into the AIR pump in the event of an exhaust backfire.

- Necessary plumbing.
- Hoses
- Pipes
- Clamps

The AIR pump with integral stop valve is controlled by the PCM. The PCM will turn ON the AIR pump by providing the ground to complete the circuit which energizes the AIR pump relay. When air to the exhaust ports is desired, the PCM will turn ON the integral stop valve and then the AIR pump.

The PCM turns ON the AIR pump during startup any time engine coolant temperature is above -10°C (14°F). The AIR pump operates for a maximum of 240 seconds, or until the system enters Closed Loop operation. At the same time the PCM turns the AIR pump OFF, it also de-energizes the integral stop valve solenoid so no air is directed to the exhaust ports.

The AIR system will be disabled under the following conditions: CMNT has highlighted the conditions that would be present in a drag racing situation where FULL power is needed)

- When the PCM recognizes a condition and sets a diagnostic trouble code.
- When the fuel system is operating in Closed Loop.
- The AIR pump has been ON for 240 seconds.
- Engine Speed is greater than 2825 RPM.
- MAP is greater than 96 kPa with VSS over 60 mph.
- MAP is less than 20 kPa.
- ECT less than -10°C (14°F).
- 3-way catalytic converters over temperature detected.
- Short and long term fuel trim are not in the normal range.
- Power enrichment is detected.

Results of Incorrect Operation

If no air (oxygen) flow enters the exhaust stream at the exhaust ports, HC and CO emission levels will be too high.

Air flowing to the exhaust ports at all times could increase temperature of the warm up 3-way catalytic converter.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes P0410, P0412, P1415, and P1416 will set if there is a malfunction in the following components:

- The AIR pump.
- The AIR pump relay.
- Hoses or pipes that are leaking.
- The Check valves that are leaking.
- Circuits going to the AIR pump and the AIR pump relay.
- The vacuum bleed valve.

AIR Pump

The AIR pump is a regenerative turbine type which is permanently lubricated and requires no periodic maintenance.

The engine should be at normal operating temperature in neutral at idle. Using the scan tool enable the AIR pump system. Select HO2S voltages for both Bank 1 and Bank 2 HO2S. The HO2S voltages for both sensors should remain under 350 mV because air is being directed to the exhaust ports. If the HO2S voltages remain low during the Output Test, the AIR pump and integral stop valve are operating satisfactorily. If the HO2S voltage does not remain low when the AIR pump is enabled, inspect for the following:

- For voltage at the Air Pump when it is energized.
- For a seized AIR pump.
- Hoses, pipes and all connections for leaks and proper routing.
- For air flow going to the exhaust ports.
- AIR pump for proper mounting.
- Hoses and Pipes for deterioration or holes.
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Old May 28, 2003 | 01:27 PM
  #6  
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Default Re: AIR pump removal

well. GM had the incline to go ahead and remove my EGR system for me, so I really don't consider that a necessary system on the car. It's purely for emissions standards.

As for the AIR system, If I've read correctly, it's only purpose is to inject fresh air into the exhaust stream which in turn actually heats up the catalytics (there in turn causing them to work properly and get rid of as much emissions as it can)?

If that's the case, then it makes sense to me that not having it would not damage the catalytics (at least not in the span of a couple years) and that sucker is definately going away. It is a nightmare to get to the sparkplugs and valve covers with the tubes in place. And I think it's the source of a damned annoying whistling sound coming from the firewall area that my car has while cruising at low rpms.
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Old May 28, 2003 | 10:34 PM
  #7  
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From: Rochester , NY
Default Re: AIR pump removal

i would imagine that if you dont have cats that you dont need it either!!!
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Old May 28, 2003 | 10:45 PM
  #8  
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From: Chicago (Elgin), IL
Default Re: AIR pump removal

well. GM had the incline to go ahead and remove my EGR system for me, so I really don't consider that a necessary system on the car. It's purely for emissions standards.

As for the AIR system, If I've read correctly, it's only purpose is to inject fresh air into the exhaust stream which in turn actually heats up the catalytics (there in turn causing them to work properly and get rid of as much emissions as it can)?

If that's the case, then it makes sense to me that not having it would not damage the catalytics (at least not in the span of a couple years) and that sucker is definately going away. It is a nightmare to get to the sparkplugs and valve covers with the tubes in place. And I think it's the source of a damned annoying whistling sound coming from the firewall area that my car has while cruising at low rpms.
A) For the EGR, GM changed the cam profile to accomodate for a lack of EGR. I think if mammory serves me right, it had to do with ramp speeds on the lobes and possibly lobe centerlines. This is why later LS1's in the F-Body DO NOT have EGR as all LS1's in the Vette don't.

B) You are correct in the fact that it is to speed up the heating of the cats in order to fire off the catalyst. HOWEVER, the quicker you do this, the quicker the PCM will go into closed loop operation. It'll just take longer, that's all.

C) Those tubes have 2 10mm bolts that hold them to the A.I.R. fittings on the headers. I've removed and replaced mine 100's of times, they aren't that much of a hurdle to work around. Matter of fact, I've removed mine so many times, I keep a stock of those little gaskets that go between the fittings simply cause I tear them up in the process.

And yes, if you remove the cats, THEN there is no need for this system, but under common presumption, I am presuming that the cats (whether factory or aftermarket) are there and are functioning properly.

As to the whistling, it should sound more like an electric solenoid motor but I can see it sounding like a whistle.
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Old May 28, 2003 | 11:22 PM
  #9  
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From: Tomball, TX
Default Re: AIR pump removal

Good deal. I pull valve covers pretty often on my car ever since I popped a valve spring and I'm looking at going to a solid roller setup in the very near future. I also change the plugs fairly often. It's a pain to pull all that stuff everytime. I'm doing Coil Pack relocations soon to get the coil packs out of the way.

BUT, I have one thing that makes it a bit difficult, a broke off bolt that I had to drill out and is now replaced with a bolt and nut through it. It's a MAJOR PITA to get off and on.

I mostly leave the catalytics on the car since there is no rasp, and it keeps the police a little happier (not to mention I got tired of smelling like gas everytime I went to a meeting). I do run o2 simms full time though. I'm working on a y-pipe now that will have two cutouts right off the header collectors, then go into a set of dual 3" highflow cats, then come to a 3.5 or 4" collector and then to the catback. I plan on making some extension pipes to bolt onto the flanges in place of the cap when I want to run "open cutouts" (probably figure out a way to get a 18-24" long bent pipe in there, maybe direct the exhaust out the sides of the car, track duty ONLY. As long as I don't have to replace the cats every year or so, I'm happy.
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Old Jun 3, 2003 | 04:50 AM
  #10  
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From: bay area
Default Re: AIR pump removal

we just swapped motors and to put less back on and clean up the engine bay i just removed it and i will just have it tuned out. but it makes mobility in the bay alot easier and looks better.
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Old Jun 3, 2003 | 10:33 AM
  #11  
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From: Chicago Heights, IL
Default Re: AIR pump removal

You guys will probably laugh at this, but I like the AIR system cause it sounds pretty cool. I have people ALL the time ask me what that high pitched whining noise is coming from my engine bay when I am idling. I've had lesser car people think its a supercharger. I never say its the AIR system, I just say its the engine making sure everything is working properly and people are amazed!
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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 12:15 PM
  #12  
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From: Lebanon, OH
Default Re: AIR pump removal

i have a 98 Z28 and the codes PO410 and PO412 keep coming up, every thing appears to be connected and working properly. is there anything else that would cause these codes to come up?
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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 12:42 PM
  #13  
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From: MS.
Default Re: AIR pump removal

So if you have no catalytic converters then you need no AIR? Or does it still do something?
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