Free Mods
08-29-2007, 03:19 PM
#2
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
free ram air mod - cut out restrictive plastic under air filter
ported throttle body - few hp better throttle response
bump stop - allows throttle body to open to almost 90 degrees at wide open throttle instead of lower 80's..
throttle body bypass - lets engine collant bypass the TB to keep temperatures down
EGR / AIR delete - getting rid of useless emmissions ****.
drill mod - for M6 - remove restriction to allow clutch fluid to move faster and let the clutch operate quicker.
hose mod - take out big rubber things on top of rear springs and replace with garden hose to drop car out 3/4" - 1"
any weight reduction you can think of - spare tire, jack, rear seats, etc.
driver mod - learn to drive it like you stole it!!
www.installuniversity.com - then LS1 - then install documents
ported throttle body - few hp better throttle response
bump stop - allows throttle body to open to almost 90 degrees at wide open throttle instead of lower 80's..
throttle body bypass - lets engine collant bypass the TB to keep temperatures down
EGR / AIR delete - getting rid of useless emmissions ****.
drill mod - for M6 - remove restriction to allow clutch fluid to move faster and let the clutch operate quicker.
hose mod - take out big rubber things on top of rear springs and replace with garden hose to drop car out 3/4" - 1"
any weight reduction you can think of - spare tire, jack, rear seats, etc.
driver mod - learn to drive it like you stole it!!
www.installuniversity.com - then LS1 - then install documents
08-29-2007, 07:45 PM
#5
Originally Posted by '99bluez
free ram air mod - cut out restrictive plastic under air filter
ported throttle body - few hp better throttle response
bump stop - allows throttle body to open to almost 90 degrees at wide open throttle instead of lower 80's..
throttle body bypass - lets engine collant bypass the TB to keep temperatures down
EGR / AIR delete - getting rid of useless emmissions ****.
drill mod - for M6 - remove restriction to allow clutch fluid to move faster and let the clutch operate quicker.
hose mod - take out big rubber things on top of rear springs and replace with garden hose to drop car out 3/4" - 1"
any weight reduction you can think of - spare tire, jack, rear seats, etc.
driver mod - learn to drive it like you stole it!!
www.installuniversity.com - then LS1 - then install documents
ported throttle body - few hp better throttle response
bump stop - allows throttle body to open to almost 90 degrees at wide open throttle instead of lower 80's..
throttle body bypass - lets engine collant bypass the TB to keep temperatures down
EGR / AIR delete - getting rid of useless emmissions ****.
drill mod - for M6 - remove restriction to allow clutch fluid to move faster and let the clutch operate quicker.
hose mod - take out big rubber things on top of rear springs and replace with garden hose to drop car out 3/4" - 1"
any weight reduction you can think of - spare tire, jack, rear seats, etc.
driver mod - learn to drive it like you stole it!!
www.installuniversity.com - then LS1 - then install documents
wow great list man. did all that with the exception of the hose mod
08-30-2007, 12:54 AM
#6
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
wow great list man. did all that with the exception of the hose mod
Trending Topics
09-10-2007, 04:47 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Bad Blue WS6
me neither,,,,and as someone else added,,ould'nt that make it look your always going up hill!!??
09-10-2007, 05:20 PM
#15
12 Second Club
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As far as the front looking to high - it shouldn't. Most peoples cars sit higher in the rear and lower in the front. The hose mod should even it out. If your car already appears to sit even then i wouldn't recommend doing this.
Mini write up:
- use a tape measure and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the wheel well - where the rear 1/4 pannel starts. This is for before and after results.
- break the lugs loose on the wheels. Jack up the car on the rearend just infront of the pumpkin. Then lower the car onto 2 jacks - 1 on each side of the frame.
- take off rear wheels
- unbolt bottom of shock
- lower the jack that is under the rear
- rear will lower
- remove spring (be careful - it takes a good amount of effort to pull it out)
- rubber isolater will just fall out
- cut off a section of 5/8" garden hose and start feeding it onto the top of the coil. You only need to go around 1 full time. You need just enough so there is no metal on the top of the spring touching the metal of the car. Its kind of hard to get the hose to slide on, so WD40 will help.
- put the spring back in
- tighten bolt on shock (don't remember the specs.) May have to adjust rear to get the height to line up.
- raise the rear, put on the wheels & remove the jack stands
- lower the car to the ground and torque the lugs.
- measure the distance from the ground to the wheel well again to see your differences.
I think thats about it!! Tell me if it all makes sense.
Mini write up:
- use a tape measure and measure the distance from the ground to the top of the wheel well - where the rear 1/4 pannel starts. This is for before and after results.
- break the lugs loose on the wheels. Jack up the car on the rearend just infront of the pumpkin. Then lower the car onto 2 jacks - 1 on each side of the frame.
- take off rear wheels
- unbolt bottom of shock
- lower the jack that is under the rear
- rear will lower
- remove spring (be careful - it takes a good amount of effort to pull it out)
- rubber isolater will just fall out
- cut off a section of 5/8" garden hose and start feeding it onto the top of the coil. You only need to go around 1 full time. You need just enough so there is no metal on the top of the spring touching the metal of the car. Its kind of hard to get the hose to slide on, so WD40 will help.
- put the spring back in
- tighten bolt on shock (don't remember the specs.) May have to adjust rear to get the height to line up.
- raise the rear, put on the wheels & remove the jack stands
- lower the car to the ground and torque the lugs.
- measure the distance from the ground to the wheel well again to see your differences.
I think thats about it!! Tell me if it all makes sense.
09-10-2007, 05:31 PM
#16
12 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Chesapeake,va and Charlotte,NC
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did a write up for the hose mod, its in my sig.
And for the front you could clamp a coil together to even it out. let me know if you want more info
And for the front you could clamp a coil together to even it out. let me know if you want more info
09-12-2007, 07:48 AM
#18
to me it does but it could just be the angle of the picture and the driveway. Was interested in doing this because my rear sits pretty high and I dont want to lower the whole car until I get new shocks. Also, I am assuming if you do this and do not like how it looks for whatever reason, you can go back to stock without any issues?
Last edited by Fb0dy0nly; 09-12-2007 at 07:56 AM.
09-12-2007, 01:13 PM
#19
TECH Regular
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yup, going back to stock is a matter of taking out the rear spring again, removing hose, and slapping the upper mount back in. I'll try to get some better pics on level ground.
