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400fwhp without going into the motor ?

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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 04:37 PM
  #21  
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I don't think you'll be hitting 400 rwhp without opening the motor up at least some, unless you spray it
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 04:54 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by waterbug1999
100 shot of N20!!
put some juice to it and make over 400 rwhp. lol
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 11:55 AM
  #23  
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yeah thats true i will try and get close to 400 rear wheel hp on bolt ons but in the future a mild cam nothing too radical
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 12:34 PM
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ive heard aweomse things about 228r, numbers right at 400 and great street manners, thats the way im going
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRallyeZ
I've heard awesome things about 228r, numbers right at 400 and great street manners, thats the way I'm going
You might want to consider a reverse-split if you intend to keep a stock head. Ask PredatorZ about it. He'll let you know for sure..
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
I've seen cars make 350-360rwhp through an M6/10-bolt with BOLTONS, call 'em factory freaks, but they're out there.

350 / .85 = 412hp (crank)
362rwhp-370tq here, with mods below. I can't see someone getting 400rwhp with bolt-ons only.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 10:07 PM
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Spray it
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 12:20 PM
  #28  
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depends on if you are A4 or M6... Best chances with a small cam and reaching 400rwhp are going to come with an M6, but it is possible with an A4.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:12 PM
  #29  
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Yep, buddy had just over 370 rwhp with intake/exhaust, which is certainly over 400fwhp. I haven't put mine on the Dyno yet.. but it'll go on there soon. As for 400 rwhp, get some spray =D
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 09:34 AM
  #30  
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I just had an exhaust and tune with my dyno numbers in my sig. So I would think 400fwhp is no problem with bolt-ons! I can't wait to see what happens with the aluminum flywheel and new clutch, should be dropping 15lbs of rotating weight . Figure 25hp for headers - 350, then pulleys for about ~10? an electric water pump, and a lid. All that I would think would put you knockin at the door or VERY close to having it at the rear wheels. A mild cam would still be the easiest and most manageable thing. As someone else pointed out, depending on the cam you can even increase your mpg with it... if you can keep your foot out of it, but whats the fun in that?!

Speaking of.. I need to get a lid for my car before I dyno again.. hehe.

As for the a4 vs m6.. I thought I remember reading somewhere the a4 was 15% and the m6 was 12% loss. Does anyone know for sure the drivetrain loss for each? Theres an app for my droid to give hp numbers depending on that and I'm just curious how close it is lol
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 02:21 PM
  #31  
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get the ms3 cam, then spray
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 02:24 PM
  #32  
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every motor is different, i dyno'd 351/371 with a lid LT's, ORY and catback... the next ls1 with the same mods may dyno more or significantly less. 400 rwhp may be possible, but not probable. most of the weight is going to lie in the hands of your tuner, better tune = MPG and Power.

I have the same app on my iphone and it is simply an inertia vs. weight calculation with alittle GPS thrown in for good measure,,, hell you can figure out how much horsepower your legs have if you wanna run a bit.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 09:01 PM
  #33  
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I made 395/415 with just bolt-ons, and that was without an EWP, UDP, or RR's. Of course that was an M6 LS2...

Vararam, ported TB, ported FAST 92, Kooks 1.75" LT's, catless mids, dual 3" cat back w/ X-pipe and 40-series Flowmasters, Monster level 6 clutch, lightweight flywheel (18lb steel), CF driveshaft, and a Tick Performance level 2 tranny with cryo and REM polish. Tuned by Matt @ SNL Performance.

Then they installed the cam for me, added a UDP, swapped to a 4" CAI/ 100mm MAF, and retuned for numbers in signature.
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