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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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well i just sold my truck tonight so that means it time for my LT/H-pipe set up i told my bro about it and he said i'd get tired of the headers because he had a set of edelbrock shorties on his truck and always had to replace the header gaskets and they kept coming loose. has anybody had any trouble with that? either way, i've got my heart set on long tubes, now all i gotta do is decide whether or not to spend $250 more on QTP's, or to settle with jet-hots, and what mufflers to go with, i'm thinking magnaflow ovals. any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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I used to have a set of pacesetter mid-lengths on and I never noticed them coming loose. I put about 30,000 miles on them and when I pulled them to put long tubes on I saw black in the gasket around the #7. It was the paper one included with the headers and I honestly didn't torque it properly since a torque wrench wouldn't fit back there. But I didn't hear anything and the black wasn't all the way through or even that black, just had signs of a slight leak. So far the AR Long tubes are doing great!
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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yea, i'm rele considering going with the stainless headers.

and also, anybody with magnapacks. would they be too loud when used with lt's and an 3'' off road h-pipe? i want something kind of loud, but not raspy and annoying
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 11:08 PM
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consider the xs for stainless, no problems with mine...

and all the H-pipes that ive heard are for the most part less raspy than other setups, i think the one-chamber flows are the best availible but if i remeber correctly, them magnapacks are pretty good for what you want as well
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 08:18 AM
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the QTP race headers have the front O2 fitting, right? i'm pretty sure they would, i just want to be sure before ordering them

and also, what header gaskets, bolts, etc. do i need to order to go with it. thanks
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 08:24 AM
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LS1's are TOTALLY different then GEN I or II SBC motors, for example, due to LT1's

E I I E E I I E

Header primary arrangement, the # 3 and # 5 exhaust have no bolt between them and often have the most leaks regardless of matience, or gasket quality.

LS1's have a equal arrangement, E I E I E I E I (or reverse it, but still the same) they are spread equally so there is equal clamping load on each port + the MLS gaskets work awesome and never needs an upgrade.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 09:06 AM
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what are MLS gaskets? and do i need to get new studs/header bolts?
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 09:56 AM
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QTP's do have o2's and new bolts are definately a safe upgrade
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by dutinsss
what are MLS gaskets? and do i need to get new studs/header bolts?
MLS = Multi Layer Steel

Every LS1 came with them from the factory the best gasket out there, and you can just reuse yours.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 10:58 AM
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Default ddd

I understand the key to gen 1 and gen 2 headers was to re-torque bolts a few times during first month of operation.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tee-boy
I understand the key to gen 1 and gen 2 headers was to re-torque bolts a few times during first month of operation.
There is more to that then just re-torquing.... once the gasket gets a leak, that gasket is fucked, no amound of torquing will matter, it will leak.

Its a requirement to have a clean the surface of the head and header. Use WD-40 and a scotch brite pad, or wirrly bird. Clean final prep with brake cleen.

Buy a quality Multi Layer Gasket, Flowtech makes a great dead soft aluminum gasket

Bolt up the header and gasket.

Use Anti Seaze.

Tighten from the inside bolts to the outside.

Once torqued and bolted to the surface, its honestly good to wait a day. Re check in the morning. I have had bolts "settle"

Start the engine, let it get up to temp, i.e. Heat cycle.

Re-tighten bolts, inside to outside.

Let cool, go drive, and for the 1st week or so many cycles. Re-check.

Then the interval can be extended to once every week, or even month depending on the use. (Weekend Warrior, or Daily Driver)

This is the best way I have done it over the years from 72 454 BB vette, 66 327 vette, a 68 327 camaro, 70 Chevelle 350, and my 94 z28 and buds 93 and 94 trans am.

In the end you still will see some blow by on the gasket but it is less then "normal"
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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ive never had a problem with mine leaking
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:54 AM
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stage 8 header bolts...they keep the bolt from backing out, lots of sponsors carry them (like ~$35)
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dutinsss
and do i need to get new studs/header bolts?
any opinions about the APR studs vs Stage 8 bolts or should I start a poll??
Which ones should I get for my Kooks 1 3/4 installation?
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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id go w. stage 8
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 12:45 PM
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how do you use the stage8 bolts on an LS1?
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 12:58 PM
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which stg 8's? i notice there are a few different options that the sponsers offer...?
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 01:02 PM
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well, the only version i have seen or looked at (i use regular old bolts which work great and were free), have the "c-clip" and the teardrop shaped wedge. those are the ones i am speaking of.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 04:00 PM
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http://www.ls1speed.com/cont.cfm?cid=C0000046
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 04:29 PM
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OK, so again i ask... How do you use these on an LS1?
that link above is designed to lock up against a header primary tube, no? hence the flat side "D" shaped clip.
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