knock sensor
knock sensor My car has been pinging quite badly at lower RPMs since i have had it, today i realized that the check engine light does not come on when u first start the car, so figured the idiot I bought it from took it out.. I took it to advanced auto parts and had them run it to check it and sure enough it pulled knock sensor code, ugh... So how big of a deal is this? just change it out for a new one or what? how much does this part cost and how hard is it to install? thanks!
The car is bone stock with 79,000 miles and I use 91 since its the highest around me.
Another thing is, should I replace the sensors and expect it to all be good, or find out why it is pinging in the first place? I am a little confused about this..
Another thing is, should I replace the sensors and expect it to all be good, or find out why it is pinging in the first place? I am a little confused about this..
Last edited by trey1010; Dec 11, 2007 at 05:24 PM.
another thing is i read that it is bad to drive much when these are bad, and since i had no idea my car was throwing a code until now i have driven almost 20,000 miles with this code i am guessing.
The car seems to run very good also, sometimes the idle is a little rough though.. I have been searching the forums and a question that I still have is could the pinging be caused by bad knock sensors?
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Ok I will try and replace that 2morrow and just hope it solves the problem! One thing though doesn't the knock sensor keep the engine from pinging instead of making it ping?
Last edited by trey1010; Dec 11, 2007 at 10:29 PM.
yeah, one thing that is still making me wonder is, since i DO have pinging and i am throwing a knock sensor code, wouldn't that mean the knock sensor is working fine or not? On the other hand if it was working fine it would retard the timing to make it stop right? I am very sorry for all the questions but this is really concerning me and I am searching everywhere for these specific answers.
I'd pull the valley cover and check the knock sensors, shouldnt take you too long if you have any mechanical aptitude, just doing break the oil sending unit when you pull the intake (lift the intake straight up as high as you can, then pull it forward).
then replace them if they look corroded.
If they look fine then i would take the car to a tuner and see what he can find out.
then replace them if they look corroded.
If they look fine then i would take the car to a tuner and see what he can find out.
I'm working on mine right now. Heres the whole breakdown including part numbers and prices. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/828629-got-dtc-need-advice-what-do.html
There is also a TSB out that has you silicone around the rubber boots so no more water will get in. The boots are oily so I cleaned them with brake cleaner first.
You will also find that the rear four intake bolts won't come out- they hit the cowl, take 4 one inch sections of rubber hose 3/8 or so, cut a slit down each one to put over the bolt so it stays held up.
I did a search and read a bunch of horror stories, mainly pinching the new wire under the intake or breaking the oil sender.
The oil sender is tricky because the brake booster vacuum nipple on the intake loops behind it so you have to lift it over the sender, during removal and installation.
And to be sure you don't pinch the wires just route them straight back, once the intake is set reach back and move them forward and backwards a little to be sure you're not pinching them.
Heres a link if you want to diagnose it http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic9363.php
Heres a link to the removal process http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18
Just follow the last link up to where they remove the knock sensors, YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE VALLEY COVER.
One other thing, remove the fuel line so you don't need to bend it out of the way or remove the fuel rail. I did my disassembly last night and did not have the tool but I know what it looks like. I made one using the tube that comes with the silicone , cut it right at the threaded piece and make it about 1/2" long and put a slit in it. Put the big end into the line side of the coupling and push with some needle nose pliers, then pull the line off.
There is also a TSB out that has you silicone around the rubber boots so no more water will get in. The boots are oily so I cleaned them with brake cleaner first.
You will also find that the rear four intake bolts won't come out- they hit the cowl, take 4 one inch sections of rubber hose 3/8 or so, cut a slit down each one to put over the bolt so it stays held up.
I did a search and read a bunch of horror stories, mainly pinching the new wire under the intake or breaking the oil sender.
The oil sender is tricky because the brake booster vacuum nipple on the intake loops behind it so you have to lift it over the sender, during removal and installation.
And to be sure you don't pinch the wires just route them straight back, once the intake is set reach back and move them forward and backwards a little to be sure you're not pinching them.
Heres a link if you want to diagnose it http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic9363.php
Heres a link to the removal process http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18
Just follow the last link up to where they remove the knock sensors, YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE VALLEY COVER.
One other thing, remove the fuel line so you don't need to bend it out of the way or remove the fuel rail. I did my disassembly last night and did not have the tool but I know what it looks like. I made one using the tube that comes with the silicone , cut it right at the threaded piece and make it about 1/2" long and put a slit in it. Put the big end into the line side of the coupling and push with some needle nose pliers, then pull the line off.
Last edited by 8a8mfh; Dec 13, 2007 at 01:14 PM.