Lightweight batteries
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From: Pasadena, CA
Why don't you just stick with your current battery for daily driving, and just swap in a lighter battery for track days and call it a day? You'd get the best of both worlds, at the expense of having a little extra weight should you encounter a friendly competition on your way home from work...
the odyssey battery that weighs a lot less than stock, hasnt given anyone problems and is rather cheap for is performance, as well as it being a dry cell battery vs wet cell. isnt a good investment?
Pffft
Its a hassle carrying another battery.
Interesting Topic
First I wouldn't be buying a battery to save weight. If you want to put your car on a serious diet, look at the foam up front and I think there is some in back. Removed your carpet, remove radio. Heck remove your passenger, and rear seats while your removing your carpet and put in a lighter drivers seat, but if you dont want to remove the carpet remove the sound proof foam under your carpet. I am surprised your spare is not already out of your car. Now lets look at your drive train. What about your flywheel and drive shaft. Have you gone with a chrome moly drive shaft. I know you said something about k-member, so what about the A-arms. Now if you are doing this to improve your E.T's, I would do suspension components first before I would go with the **** details of lightening up your car. Start broad then narrow down instead of going from narrow to broad. And your only saving not even a full tenth off you your time by going with a lighter batter (If it aint broke don't fix it). Here is a rule of thumb to go buy, 100lbs = a tenth of your 1/4 mile time (at most). I would go with suspension first then putting your car on a diet. A full suspension would help you a lot more.
My $0.02
First I wouldn't be buying a battery to save weight. If you want to put your car on a serious diet, look at the foam up front and I think there is some in back. Removed your carpet, remove radio. Heck remove your passenger, and rear seats while your removing your carpet and put in a lighter drivers seat, but if you dont want to remove the carpet remove the sound proof foam under your carpet. I am surprised your spare is not already out of your car. Now lets look at your drive train. What about your flywheel and drive shaft. Have you gone with a chrome moly drive shaft. I know you said something about k-member, so what about the A-arms. Now if you are doing this to improve your E.T's, I would do suspension components first before I would go with the **** details of lightening up your car. Start broad then narrow down instead of going from narrow to broad. And your only saving not even a full tenth off you your time by going with a lighter batter (If it aint broke don't fix it). Here is a rule of thumb to go buy, 100lbs = a tenth of your 1/4 mile time (at most). I would go with suspension first then putting your car on a diet. A full suspension would help you a lot more.
My $0.02
The battery I got came from http://www.portablepower.com/product...es/Odyssey.asp. Item #37L105S5 Hawker [Energysys]Odyssey [0769-2016 PC680]. I bought it on 12/1/06 for 76.95+ 15.95 shipping. I just looked on their site and it seems they want $129 for the same battery, weird. Inflation!!!!!!!!!
The battery lays down flat in the battery tray and can be clamped in with the existing hold down. I see it weighs 15 lbs not the 13 lbs I thought.
I have a RK Sport SS hood that also saves about 25 lbs.
The battery lays down flat in the battery tray and can be clamped in with the existing hold down. I see it weighs 15 lbs not the 13 lbs I thought.
I have a RK Sport SS hood that also saves about 25 lbs.
So what you are telling me is..
the odyssey battery that weighs a lot less than stock, hasnt given anyone problems and is rather cheap for is performance, as well as it being a dry cell battery vs wet cell. isnt a good investment?
Pffft
Its a hassle carrying another battery.
the odyssey battery that weighs a lot less than stock, hasnt given anyone problems and is rather cheap for is performance, as well as it being a dry cell battery vs wet cell. isnt a good investment?
Pffft
Its a hassle carrying another battery.
But if you are THAT sure about the battery, and if you honestly believe that no one in the world under similar conditions has had a problem with that battery, then go for it.
I just wouldn't do it on my car...that is really my only point.
Thread Starter
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From: Pasadena, CA
Interesting Topic
First I wouldn't be buying a battery to save weight. If you want to put your car on a serious diet, look at the foam up front and I think there is some in back. Removed your carpet, remove radio. Heck remove your passenger, and rear seats while your removing your carpet and put in a lighter drivers seat, but if you dont want to remove the carpet remove the sound proof foam under your carpet. I am surprised your spare is not already out of your car. Now lets look at your drive train. What about your flywheel and drive shaft. Have you gone with a chrome moly drive shaft. I know you said something about k-member, so what about the A-arms. Now if you are doing this to improve your E.T's, I would do suspension components first before I would go with the **** details of lightening up your car. Start broad then narrow down instead of going from narrow to broad. And your only saving not even a full tenth off you your time by going with a lighter batter (If it aint broke don't fix it). Here is a rule of thumb to go buy, 100lbs = a tenth of your 1/4 mile time (at most). I would go with suspension first then putting your car on a diet. A full suspension would help you a lot more.
My $0.02
First I wouldn't be buying a battery to save weight. If you want to put your car on a serious diet, look at the foam up front and I think there is some in back. Removed your carpet, remove radio. Heck remove your passenger, and rear seats while your removing your carpet and put in a lighter drivers seat, but if you dont want to remove the carpet remove the sound proof foam under your carpet. I am surprised your spare is not already out of your car. Now lets look at your drive train. What about your flywheel and drive shaft. Have you gone with a chrome moly drive shaft. I know you said something about k-member, so what about the A-arms. Now if you are doing this to improve your E.T's, I would do suspension components first before I would go with the **** details of lightening up your car. Start broad then narrow down instead of going from narrow to broad. And your only saving not even a full tenth off you your time by going with a lighter batter (If it aint broke don't fix it). Here is a rule of thumb to go buy, 100lbs = a tenth of your 1/4 mile time (at most). I would go with suspension first then putting your car on a diet. A full suspension would help you a lot more.
My $0.02
what are disadvantages to removing the foam?
Also, if you read, youll know my K member is going on, and yes I have lower A arms as well..
Alo I have full suspension FYI and an aluminum FW..
My ETs are fine for my mods
at my weight and 364rwhp I think 7.80s are great especially in summer weather.
Now, my concern is track days and the dragstrip..
I wanna hanldle better and be faster in the dragstrip. so removing weight is a must. I just dunno where to begin..
again, persoanlly Idont see how the battery is a bad idea.
all those things prople remove to save weight have heavy disadvantages, especially refering to a DD car.. such as power steering and AC(I live in So cal and I wear shorts in 32 degree weather, so as you can see I get hot, quite fast)
FWIW; i have an odyssey PC680 that i ran in the summertime but I had to switch back to my factory battery after it started to get colder-its a good battery but it just doesnt have the amps i need for my engine in colder weather --let this be a rule of thumb, if you've upped the CR of your engine an if you drive your car in colder weather its gonna be hard to run that battery
Thread Starter
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From: Pasadena, CA
No, I'm actually not telling you anything like that. You are coming up with that on your own.
But if you are THAT sure about the battery, and if you honestly believe that no one in the world under similar conditions has had a problem with that battery, then go for it.
I just wouldn't do it on my car...that is really my only point.
But if you are THAT sure about the battery, and if you honestly believe that no one in the world under similar conditions has had a problem with that battery, then go for it.
I just wouldn't do it on my car...that is really my only point.
well read post #31, he doesnt seem to have any issues with a 15lb battery. using AC and everything..
I ran a pc680 oddesy all last summer in my daily driver with 11.6 compression with no issues. Thats with a march underdrive pulley also. Battery voltage never dropped with
the air and radio on. I paid around 85 bucks for it off the net, search around for it you
can find a deal.Battery weighs 13.7 lbs with the adapters I made so I could use the stock
cables.
the air and radio on. I paid around 85 bucks for it off the net, search around for it you
can find a deal.Battery weighs 13.7 lbs with the adapters I made so I could use the stock
cables.
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On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 147
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From: New Jersey
I am running an Odessy PC925, and it is not quite as small as the others listed here. I did have to fabricate a battery tray to make this one fit as well since its smaller than a regular battery. I do not use this car as DD and if it sits for a while then I need to jump or to charge up. I guess the factory security stuff draws just enough to discharge the battery. I have no regrets with this setup, it works great on the street/strip.
Thread Starter
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From: Pasadena, CA
I ran a pc680 oddesy all last summer in my daily driver with 11.6 compression with no issues. Thats with a march underdrive pulley also. Battery voltage never dropped with
the air and radio on. I paid around 85 bucks for it off the net, search around for it you
can find a deal.Battery weighs 13.7 lbs with the adapters I made so I could use the stock
cables.
the air and radio on. I paid around 85 bucks for it off the net, search around for it you
can find a deal.Battery weighs 13.7 lbs with the adapters I made so I could use the stock
cables.
I may go 1 step up. But still sounds great!
thanks..
Regardless of your choice, at least let us know how it does. There aren't many good data points out there for lightweight batteries in DD cars...
I actually increased the weight of my battery with my last purchase...I should weigh it versus my old Optima for grins.
I actually increased the weight of my battery with my last purchase...I should weigh it versus my old Optima for grins.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 114
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From: Vancouver, WA.
I am running an Odessy PC925, and it is not quite as small as the others listed here. I did have to fabricate a battery tray to make this one fit as well since its smaller than a regular battery. I do not use this car as DD and if it sits for a while then I need to jump or to charge up. I guess the factory security stuff draws just enough to discharge the battery. I have no regrets with this setup, it works great on the street/strip.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=834
Pretty good weight savings...total weight of only 5 lbs.
And good healthy load of amps
Pretty good weight savings...total weight of only 5 lbs.
And good healthy load of amps
Thread Starter
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From: Pasadena, CA
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=834
Pretty good weight savings...total weight of only 5 lbs.
And good healthy load of amps
Pretty good weight savings...total weight of only 5 lbs.
And good healthy load of amps
Ok, is there any specs of a stock LS1 battery?
Thread Starter
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From: Pasadena, CA
Oh also how much does a stock radiator weigh? I know its really light.
I actually think this is heavier..
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1228
and lastly Im gonna go with a 180 thermostat, because I dont think 160 degree is the best choice.
Ive heard negative things of the car not warming up fully, although I dont understand how, all the thermostat does is open up at 160 degrees to allow coolant, but still, I have my doubts....
I actually think this is heavier..
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1228
and lastly Im gonna go with a 180 thermostat, because I dont think 160 degree is the best choice.
Ive heard negative things of the car not warming up fully, although I dont understand how, all the thermostat does is open up at 160 degrees to allow coolant, but still, I have my doubts....
Thread Starter
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One post asked for the battery, one for the radiator.
Im just trying to find ways or saving weight.
Again, Im not going to get rid of parts to save weight, just parts that can be replaced with lighter ones.
for example, Its not worth saying Good riddance to my AC to save weight, I love in Hot California and need cooling.
I searched all over and cant find the specs on the stock battery
reserve life
CCA
weight
or anything else. SO I can compare the numbers to the lightweight ones.
You won't save weight with a new radiator...the one you posted is as big as my BeCool radiator, and although they seem to weigh about the same dry, the BeCool (and that one) will hold MUCH more coolant. Again, the radiator isn't a part I'd be looking at to save weight...it's job is too important.