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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 08:51 PM
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Default Lightweight batteries

http://www.brailleauto.com/

This seems to be a good choice for a light battery..

I only have 1 issue. what size is the F body battery and how many CCAs is it...( car isnt by me now)

anyways I wanted to know of the 15lb battery they offer is a good direct replacement for OEM. because I dont wanna run the 21lb one, its not worth it..

Hell itll be even better if the 11lb is a better replacement for OEM. better as in if itll fit the battery box and if it provides enough CCAs as OEM would..

If it doesnt fit, Ill try to get a rear battery location for the rear. I think BMR makes one.

Thanks..
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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No the 11lb one wont work well..

I think the 15 lb one is good., But I need input ... what people think and if anyone has experience with them.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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BUMP!

no one has lightweight batteries?
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 06:20 PM
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Looks interesting. I would think that if it has the same CCA's as the factory battery then it shouldnt matter. Currently im running an optima red top, but when it goes down for the count (if ever) then i will probably look for a lighter weight one. Good find though
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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I'm interested in one of these batteries as well. We need some more input.

I think I'm gonna order the 15lb one. Does anyone know the weight of the optima red top. That is what I currently have.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 08:28 PM
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I can tell you that the Optima batteries aren't any lighter than a regular battery.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 08:31 PM
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they weigh around 45lbs

wouldnt you need to cut the factory cables and stick a top post design on it to work with that typ of battery

Last edited by Disturbed Bird; Dec 16, 2007 at 08:36 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 08:33 PM
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All I would run is an optima. I think there is a good reason behind their naming scheme. Just one leter short from Optimal.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 09:35 PM
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I wouldnt run the optima, too heavy, and not worth it.

Im gonna get the 15 pounder. I just need to be 100% sure, right now Im 90%
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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well i'm sure you are giving up capacity if the battery is lighter. There's simply less material inside. are you doing this for a drag car?
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 10:13 PM
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This is true the optima batteries are heavy sons of bitches. And yes with a lighter battery i would agree with you that you would be giving up some capacity but as long as you dont hafta spend a long time running the starter trying to start your car that shouldnt be a big issue, just my .02
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Grimes
well i'm sure you are giving up capacity if the battery is lighter. There's simply less material inside. are you doing this for a drag car?
No I am a DD

But I wanna save weight since

Ive taken weight out with he AIR removal

but added a Moser 12 bolt
3pt SFCs and now a rollcage will be in soon...

Id wanna save me some weight.

look at the sight. the 15lb one seems to be strong enough for OEM replacement.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 04:50 AM
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Save weight? haha. you need to save that money and get a tubular k member if that is what you trying to do. Shaving weight off the front end is easy to do without having to get some crazy carbon fiber looking battery that is gonna cost an asston. Hell, just relocate your battery to the trunk. that is called traction control right there.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 06:37 AM
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battery relocation= the best idea ;D
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 06:38 AM
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looks like a ricer decoration too
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 10:59 AM
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You might want to consider the Odyssey batteries too. They're lightweight and seem to work fine. I've run a 925, 20 lbs lighter than stock, in my track car for over a year now with no problems. A lot of people run the 680, 30 lbs lighter than stock, without problems also.

www.odysseyfactory.com
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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In a daily driver, the battery is the last place I'd be looking to save weight...in a race car, then I'd consider it.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
Save weight? haha. you need to save that money and get a tubular k member if that is what you trying to do. Shaving weight off the front end is easy to do without having to get some crazy carbon fiber looking battery that is gonna cost an asston. Hell, just relocate your battery to the trunk. that is called traction control right there.
First of all, if you read my comment. I mentioned that I already have a Tubular K member going in..

secondly... why not? Im saving 25 lbs by spending 240 vs saving 25 lbs paying 475 for the K member. Not worth it IMO, if comapred. and both from the front end.

Also I still am going to locate the battery in the rear.

My rear is already heavy, unsprung weight thanks to the moser 12 bolt that has been causing all my problems so far for good handling ever since I got it.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
In a daily driver, the battery is the last place I'd be looking to save weight...in a race car, then I'd consider it.
and why not

if it has teh same CCAs then Im fine. ALL I need to be sure of it, is that when I start it after a week, itll still fire up. and thats good enough for me.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
and why not

if it has teh same CCAs then Im fine. ALL I need to be sure of it, is that when I start it after a week, itll still fire up. and thats good enough for me.
Does it have the same reserve capacity as well? That'll tell you whether or not you can start it up after a week of sitting.
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