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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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Default LS6 intake install

I am soon doing the famed LS1-LS6 intake swap.

Any input on installing the crossover coolant lines both front and back instead of the plugs?

It just don't seem right to me to plug the back.
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 11:35 AM
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plug the back,ls6's came from the factory that way
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 11:47 AM
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On the couple I've helped install we used the LS6 front pipe/rear plugs. Another option is keep the LS1 pipe and grind down the bottom of the intake a little for clearance like a lot of people do.
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 12:31 PM
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Thanks Shawn, in light of that, I'll prolly go that route then.
I guess that'll just save me an extra $30-40.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 03:11 AM
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here's another option for you. I plan on doing this when I have the intake off again.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/814903-coolant-crossover-tube-high-hp-setup.html
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 03:58 AM
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If you are willing to take the time to do a nice clean job of clearancing the intake for the tubes - better coolant and steam flow is better and sure can't hurt. If you want to use the plugs, it is a not a bad route to take.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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plugged mine,,they came with my SLP LS6 intake,,,i have had no issues,,,been over a year now.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 04:04 PM
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i did the grind down route, just had a dremel and took my time, not bad at all,


OH and call around to make sure a local parts store has an oil pressure sending unit in stock. I just dont see how not to break one, some can, i cant...
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 04:11 PM
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+1001
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRallyeZ
i did the grind down route, just had a dremel and took my time, not bad at all,


OH and call around to make sure a local parts store has an oil pressure sending unit in stock. I just dont see how not to break one, some can, i cant...
I went the grind down route too, I liked it. I didn't break the oil pressure sending unit, I actually don't understand how somebody can know its there and break it. Just lift the back up before you pull it out, or put your hand back there and guide the vacuum line over it.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SchultzLT1
I went the grind down route too, I liked it. I didn't break the oil pressure sending unit, I actually don't understand how somebody can know its there and break it. Just lift the back up before you pull it out, or put your hand back there and guide the vacuum line over it.
i tried that, but still busted it. if i ever upgrade to a FAST, im just gonna factor the extra $40 in and not waste so much time trying not to break it and just pull it out. i spent about an hour and a half just trying to manuver that thing out and it STILL broke....
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRallyeZ
i tried that, but still busted it. if i ever upgrade to a FAST, im just gonna factor the extra $40 in and not waste so much time trying not to break it and just pull it out. i spent about an hour and a half just trying to manuver that thing out and it STILL broke....
Ouch thats no fun, slipped mine out in 10-20 min. After I got all the bolts undone and fuel rails off of course. Did you take off your fuel rails first or after you pulled it off?
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 10:34 PM
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I grounded down some of the ribs, but that was taking a while. So I took a screwdriver and then just knocked the ribs off, you don't need to hit them hard. Then I took an sander with a medium grit and sanded the bottom smooth. This seemed to work, I dunno if this was a bad method...if it was I suppose I got lucky. This seemed a lot easier than installing new stuff.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 11:38 PM
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I used the plugs. No problems so far and lots of 7000 rpm shifts...
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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Well, my intake is inbound. Prolly install next weekend, but am thinking of painting first so may hold off. I don't mind the extra work.

I am tempted to just go with the grind to clearance the line, but think I'll just go with the line/plugs swap. I haven't quite decided whether to stay N/A with heads/cam swap or go the forced induction route, but I will surely be heading that way someday. If I need the 90mm and sell my LS6 (on here apparently!), I think it's re-sell value will hold up better with the ribs still intact. Bonus on that for being painted.

By the way, I've got the red WS6 here, any opinions on color? I am doing it myself, prolly dupont route. Metallic Charcoal/gray or silver? I have an ongoing audio project that I will eventually fiberglass some interior pieces (tastefully) and wanted to go with the charcoal metallic to ride with the ebony interior.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 03:51 PM
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Get the oil sender especially if your local stores dont have it on hand
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 08:16 AM
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It is a straight forward install and I used the plugs, like the factory. I have had no issues and the intake was a nice improvement over the stock LS1 intake. Now, that the intake is new, the PCV catchcan should keep the intake nice and clean.
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 02:57 PM
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I ground mine down with a die grinder with a carbide tip. I like the idea of the ls1 coolent tubes so i kept them. BTW it isn't that hard to safely remove the sending unit, I didn;t break it and got the intake out of there in around 5 min. I just had my hand back there feeling were everything was.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 12:27 AM
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I'd recommend spending the $5 for an OPSU socket. Reach your hand back there and place the socket over the OPSU before you pull off the intake, it'll help sheild the sending unit from the. If you break it, you'll need the socket anyway. If you don't, it could turn out to be cheap insurance and save you from having to hunt down a new sending unit.
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 01:22 AM
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good idea
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