Ideas for a bolt-on.
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Ideas for a bolt-on. Anyone got any ideas for a power adder bolt-on I can do this spring for my LS1? Only problem is that it has to be adaptable to an LS2/LQ4 engine. I'll be installing headers, intake manifold, throttle body, oil pump, and cam when the weather warms up a bit and looking for some more ideas to waste my money on before it gets warm. Plus, the next winter project will be a 408 assembled motor so I'd like to be able to swap the parts to the new motor. No nitrous though and I want to wait on a set of head. Thanks.
Last edited by 00MaroonZ28; Feb 4, 2008 at 05:17 AM.
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
No offense, w/ 5 posts and a realatively newbie question most guys wont take you seriously about the 408 (believe me, did the exact same thing when i first got on). I however do believe you so i will try and help ya out. The answer is that just about everything is transferable I believe (minus about $400 dollars of crap that you have to buy anyway).
1) If the winter project is a 408, then don't bother putting in a cam. The cam selection will have a larger duration in the big CI motor. That would be a waste of $400 ++.
2) I suggest you do bolt ons in following order: lid, SFCs, exhaust + headers, 90/90 (get IM ported by tony mamo @ AFR or another sponser), UDP. (if A4 then do also a stall)
3) If you are serious about the 408, DON'T DO GEARS!!!! save up for a 9" (you will need it w/ the 408). Assuming its an M6, I also suggest 410s when you order the rear. If auto, then totally disregard the comment about gear selection.
My suggestion is "Get Bolted". Fully Bolted ls1s are badass. But, unfortunely they too become slow and must be upgraded to continue to recieve optimum satisfaction. Good luck.
1) If the winter project is a 408, then don't bother putting in a cam. The cam selection will have a larger duration in the big CI motor. That would be a waste of $400 ++.
2) I suggest you do bolt ons in following order: lid, SFCs, exhaust + headers, 90/90 (get IM ported by tony mamo @ AFR or another sponser), UDP. (if A4 then do also a stall)
3) If you are serious about the 408, DON'T DO GEARS!!!! save up for a 9" (you will need it w/ the 408). Assuming its an M6, I also suggest 410s when you order the rear. If auto, then totally disregard the comment about gear selection.
My suggestion is "Get Bolted". Fully Bolted ls1s are badass. But, unfortunely they too become slow and must be upgraded to continue to recieve optimum satisfaction. Good luck.
Yeah, everything is transferrable but as mentioned the cam will be too small for a 408. Also you do realize that a fully assembled longblock 408 with nice heads will be at least $6K right? And that's with you ordering the shortblock and installing everything yourself.
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I understand about the cam. The one I bought is just for the LS1 motor and I'll just use it untill I'm ready to install the 408 and then I'll buy a bigger cam. I know I'll need the 9 inch rear end but also will wait till I'm ready to put in the other motor. From the list you mentioned, I have all but the SFC's, stall, and UD pulley. I heard the UD pulley is adaptable though cause of the cam sensor location on the LS2. Is that true? Anyways, I'll definitely be looking at the SFC's now. Thanks. If the UD pulley's adaptable, then I'll be ordering one soon. I figured since I'll be messing with a cam install, I might as well change out the pulley.
And yes, I know what the price is for an assembled longblock and $6,000 is not that bad of a price. I'm thinking about the TSP 408. Hell, I've spent over $2,000 just this month on parts. My budget is $15,000 so I should be able to have a fully built engine and rear end by next spring. I'm just looking for ideas for the LS1 that I can use now and swap later.
And yes, I know what the price is for an assembled longblock and $6,000 is not that bad of a price. I'm thinking about the TSP 408. Hell, I've spent over $2,000 just this month on parts. My budget is $15,000 so I should be able to have a fully built engine and rear end by next spring. I'm just looking for ideas for the LS1 that I can use now and swap later.
Last edited by 00MaroonZ28; Feb 5, 2008 at 04:57 AM.
And yes, I know what the price is for an assembled longblock and $6,000 is not that bad of a price. I'm thinking about the TSP 408. Hell, I've spent over $2,000 just this month on parts. My budget is $15,000 so I should be able to have a fully built engine and rear end by next spring. I'm just looking for ideas for the LS1 that I can use now and swap later.
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Good luck man. Is possible, but you will likely run over your budget. I've got that in my H/C/I alone, but i did get the best of the best. Let me give you a quick rundown.
$3,600 => H/C Rockers, springs pushrods
$1,850 => induction (ported by tony mamo)
$2,200 => 9" rear
$1,500 => built t56
$1,000 => catback
$1,000 => headers
$ 2,000 => suspension (TA,LCA,PANHARD Bard, SFCs ext.)
$1,500 => miscelaneous (clutch, oil pump, UDP, lid, ext.)
Total => $14650
Could probably save $2,500 on the H/C/I, and $1,000 on exhaust, but that still leaves you quite a bit short of your goal. Best advice is do H/C the right way w/ AFRs/Trickflows and Fast 90/90. That way you will be ready for the big CI when the time comes. Oh, and BTW most people on this forum are "kids" (no offense to those of you who aren't, Hell i'm only 23) that is why they think that 15-20 grand is expensive. My experience is that if you do it in 3 stages it is obtainable.
1) Bolted
2) H/C
3) Bigger CI
All three stages are very enjoyable and they allow you to experiance the vehicle w/ 3 distinct power bands. Also, you don't buy parts more than once (well except for the cam but thats not that bad). But it sounds like you are on the right track. And if your IM is the ls6, then don't worry about the fast IM at this point. But if you haven't bought it, then pay the extra $$ and have a fast ported cause you will want one later with big CI. Again, the key to doing this is only buying parts ONCE!
$3,600 => H/C Rockers, springs pushrods
$1,850 => induction (ported by tony mamo)
$2,200 => 9" rear
$1,500 => built t56
$1,000 => catback
$1,000 => headers
$ 2,000 => suspension (TA,LCA,PANHARD Bard, SFCs ext.)
$1,500 => miscelaneous (clutch, oil pump, UDP, lid, ext.)
Total => $14650
Could probably save $2,500 on the H/C/I, and $1,000 on exhaust, but that still leaves you quite a bit short of your goal. Best advice is do H/C the right way w/ AFRs/Trickflows and Fast 90/90. That way you will be ready for the big CI when the time comes. Oh, and BTW most people on this forum are "kids" (no offense to those of you who aren't, Hell i'm only 23) that is why they think that 15-20 grand is expensive. My experience is that if you do it in 3 stages it is obtainable.
1) Bolted
2) H/C
3) Bigger CI
All three stages are very enjoyable and they allow you to experiance the vehicle w/ 3 distinct power bands. Also, you don't buy parts more than once (well except for the cam but thats not that bad). But it sounds like you are on the right track. And if your IM is the ls6, then don't worry about the fast IM at this point. But if you haven't bought it, then pay the extra $$ and have a fast ported cause you will want one later with big CI. Again, the key to doing this is only buying parts ONCE!
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL.
Oh, and to answer your question, YES the UP is transferable. And also, you ls2 is commonly either a 402 or 414. 408 is a common CI for lq9 block. I'm sure it can be done, but the 402 or 414 is much more common.
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From: Brooklyn Center, MN
I agree. I'm trying to only buy the parts once except for the cam. That's why I'm trying to see which parts I can buy that will be transferable. I'm waiting to buy a set of heads and just order them with the 408. I know the LQ9 block is pretty much the same as the LS2 except the LQ9 is the iron block so that's why I keep referring to the parts being LS2 compatible. I'll probably just get the Texas Speed 408 iron block assembled along with the heads. I want to go with the iron block just in case later on I want to run forced induction. So far I have the lid, FAST 90/90, SLP Heavy Duty Oil Pump, headers, and full 3 inch exhaust along with a couple other things meantioned. Thanks for the advice guys. I greatly appreciate it. The UD pulley will be on it's way soon along with SFC's. I'm gonna bolt this stuff up to the LS1 for the summer until next spring when I'm ready to swap. Once again thanks for the advice and not being a dick to me since I'm a newbie.
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Verdad Gallardo Since you already have the 90/90, headers, and full exhaust then you can knock off $3850 from landonew's list above...plenty of cash to buy a shortblock 402/408 with or for a little more you could get a 427 L92!
Thread Starter
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From: Brooklyn Center, MN
If it doesn't put me over budget I would love to, but I'll see later on. The 408 just seems a little more practical for me.
