chevrolet02z28

Alright so my car was acting funky as hell last night and night running right.. from about 40 at 1500 rpms it had a laggyness and it took like 3 secs to get to 3000rpms.... i tried starting it from a stop in just plain first gear.. mind u this is an a4... and it just choked and at like 15 mph it was like a cammed car idling... (kinda as if u replaced the battery for the first few seconds u start it) like it was bout to die... so i checked for codes and there was a p0101 and a p0131.... i have a auburn posi 373s with a hypertech to keep my mph gauge accurate... slp cat back... and i recently threw on a slp lid and did the fra mod until i get some bucks for the ssra......

i was told the one code was an 02 sensor... and other was for the maf sensor... any ever have this proib with a lid and fra mod? do i need to upgrade my oem maf sensor? and r those what the codes actrually are? thanks appreciate it

oh and the engine light was never thrown.... it acutally just came on like 5 mins ago...... after all these problems occured...

m_ghonim

iTrader: (2)

make sure that the maf sensor is connected right and clean and you may just need a new o2 they crap out sometime at different points in a car's life. then delete and see if they come again.

Dskeet6

iTrader: (20)

if one is an o2... .since its your baby and not your DD change both o2s

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

Make sure your MAF is fully connected and clean as stated above. Use a voltmeter on the connector and 1 wire should be 12v. 1 will be 5 volts. If not replace the MAF. And chance both O2S's as state above as well.

chevrolet02z28

Updating u guys on my outcome... being that i figured out what the codes where... i recently put my lid on.... i figured hell ynot check it out... and what do you know... that crappy thin srip they give u to seal the back of the lid off i guess didnt stick that great..... and ended up getting sucked up into my maf screen..... soo i erased the codes out... and it seems to be running fine since....

do you think thast could be the cause of the bogging when it felt like it was gonna die oujt on me the one night? there wasnt enough air getting in?

SMOKNSS

iTrader: (3)

Yes most definitely! Most common MAF problems I've encountered are "bogging" on accleration and will start but not idle, but for a few seconds.

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

Yes sir. You definitely found the route to both codes. As the MAF was blocked it caused your drivability problems. And most likely both codes. If there is one thing that I have learned over the years it that when your check engine light comes on, read the codes and work with the 1st code first. A problem with one unit normally set a code and causes others to malfunction and then they set codes as well. Start with the first code, and when that problem is solved clear the light and start again.

1BDBOTI

I have a 02 SS and mine was doing the samething as stated above try to clean it using a mass air flow cleaner, in my case i just had a bad MAF sensor...... When u take yours off check to make sure you dont have any wires insise the sensor that are broke, that is what the MAF reads off of

chevrolet02z28

yeah i cleaned the maf the other day when i sintalled my lid... and made sure not to touch them wires or nothing.. there all intact... soo i guess the route was that shitty 1/4 inch strip of junk they gave me.... has been running just fine now...

Gun5

iTrader: (37)

had the same thing happen day after I bought car showed both rear O2's where bad.. clean your MAF good with some MAF spray and clean your TB out then have the codes reset they probably wont come back..

I had read awhile ago dirty MAF/sensors will throw O2 codes for some wierd reason and it fixed it.. hasn't come back..

EDIT:

saw you fixed it great, ya its wierd eh? my strip was in the thing as well but not when the code went off.. I just got some thickass 3/4 weather stripping.. oh ya no more leaks barely closes it clamps so good