Will LT's make a big difference?
i went with Pacesetter LT's ceramic coated, and YES i did feel a difference. Like stated above probably one of the best bolt-ons for our motors.....oh and yeah....that cut-out is going to be LOUD!
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: eastern ky
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Go Pacesetter for Ceramic and Kooks for stainless IMHO. But if you already decided on Flowtechs then go for it. Make sure your have an ungraded exhaust or your I pipe will not be 3"
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: eastern ky
well what made me lean toward flowtech is that the have a 3 bolt flange connection to the y pipe, do u know if flowtechs y pipe is a 3 inch i dont know much about headers
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 107
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From: Southeastern Michigan
I just installed pacesetter lt's yesterday, extremely happy with the them. Ceramic coated are fine, I had them in my 94 v-6 camaro for three Michigan winters, no rust, except for some surface rust on the collector welds.
The 3 bolt flange connection is a big downside to the flowtechs. When I bought my car it had flowtech's on it and the collector is all bent up and leaky. All 3 bolts backed themselves out at the track the other night. You can actually see where the flange at the motor bent when the bolts were tightened down and it leakes pretty substantially. LT's are LT's to some extent but I would at least go with pacesetters. The flowtechs just seem like they are made out of playdough compared to the Pacesetters on my friends LT1. If you want to use Flowtech headers go for it, but be prepared for leaks. I don't care what anyone says you get what you pay for in the end. I'm not one of the guys recommending kook's or QTP because they are the best and most expensive because not everyone has the budget to afford them. I am one of the guys that has a cheap set of headers on his car and wants to change them out ASAP. These things remind me of the old Blackjack headers for Small Block Chevy's. Slip on collector with a band clamp or a thicker flange ftmfw.
EDIT: The primary tubes "Welds" are actually more like a tach weld. They are spot welded in 3 spots around the primary. It looks like you could break it off with your hand.
EDIT: The primary tubes "Welds" are actually more like a tach weld. They are spot welded in 3 spots around the primary. It looks like you could break it off with your hand.
I bought the pacesetter headers(non-coated) and ORY for about $400. I think its the main reason i broke into the 12's with just bolt ons, street tires,and 2.0 60ft..
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: GARDEN GROVE, CA
By the way, just keep in mind that the stainless header will not rust. Ceramic (Pacesetter and Hooker) will. I had a set of Pacesetters on a garage queen and even still they began to rust within about a years time. I guess it just depends on how often you want to be replacing your headers and how much money you want to pour into it each time you replace them. Only takes two sets of Pacesetters and you're at the price of a stainless header that will last for as long as you own the car... something to think about.
