Electrical glitches
07-25-2003, 07:33 PM
#1
Electrical glitches So I get in my car to leave work @ 6:30, and I see the CD display 1:01. I find that odd since the radio is off. I set the time and drive home.
When I park at home, I noticed my trip odometer is 6.1 miles. That's the approximate distance from work to home. No, I didn't accidentally reset it, and the gauge read 40-something miles over lunch (4.5 hours earlier).
I later noticed that when the A/C kicks on, the battery takes a voltage hit down to 8-9, then recovers to ~13.
Not sure if it's related, but yesterday my low coolant indicator came on and stays on except for a short while after starting the engine. If I disconnect the sensor, the light goes out. Plugging it back in and the light comes back on. Checked the coolant level and it's good. Checked the level in the overflow and it's good. I have a 160* thermostat and autotap said my coolant temps were 216 this afternoon. Fans kick on at 185. Not sure where the other end of the sensor connector ends, but I think I'll try replacing that sensor. Do I just drain a bit of coolant from the petcock valve until the level gets below the sensor, then swap it out and refill?
So what could have happened 61 minutes before I left work to cause this?
TIA!
When I park at home, I noticed my trip odometer is 6.1 miles. That's the approximate distance from work to home. No, I didn't accidentally reset it, and the gauge read 40-something miles over lunch (4.5 hours earlier).
I later noticed that when the A/C kicks on, the battery takes a voltage hit down to 8-9, then recovers to ~13.
Not sure if it's related, but yesterday my low coolant indicator came on and stays on except for a short while after starting the engine. If I disconnect the sensor, the light goes out. Plugging it back in and the light comes back on. Checked the coolant level and it's good. Checked the level in the overflow and it's good. I have a 160* thermostat and autotap said my coolant temps were 216 this afternoon. Fans kick on at 185. Not sure where the other end of the sensor connector ends, but I think I'll try replacing that sensor. Do I just drain a bit of coolant from the petcock valve until the level gets below the sensor, then swap it out and refill?
So what could have happened 61 minutes before I left work to cause this?
TIA!
07-25-2003, 08:23 PM
#2
Re: Electrical glitches Hmm, I just went to the car to fetch something and I turned the ignition to run to see what would happen. All the indicators and dome lights flickered off'n'on very fast before going out. I did it a second time and it appered that some sort of clicking noise was being generated from the glove-compartment area. The trip odometer was reset to zero and the clock was 1:00.
Tried starting the engine and it cranked over fine. When I've had battery problems in the past it would have real problems cranking over.
Tried starting the engine and it cranked over fine. When I've had battery problems in the past it would have real problems cranking over.
07-26-2003, 11:04 AM
#3
Re: Electrical glitches I had the battery and charging system tested @ Pep Boys. They claim both are OK. They gave me this print-out, and I watched them do the test:
BATTERY
RATED CCA: 650
OCV: 12.73V
LOAD V1: 10.89
RECOVERY V: 12.44
LOAD V2: 10.84
TEST NUMBER: 203
*GOOD BATTERY*
ALTERNATOR
REGULATOR VOLTS: 14.00V
PEAK CURRENT: 76.2A
*DIODE PATTERN IS GOOD*
The lights & instrument cluster glitched in the same manner this morning before leaving for the battery test. I noticed that the voltage gauge hung out at 0V while stuff flickered, and the needle eventually went up to ~9V.
Picked up the electrical cleaner and cleaned the exterior connections on the sensor. Dealership wanted $50 for a new one, so I thought I'd go back this week and get from a different guy at his cost. The light is less irritating than the Mr. Jekyll lighting.
Guess I'll drop it off at the dealer for the voltage issue.
BATTERY
RATED CCA: 650
OCV: 12.73V
LOAD V1: 10.89
RECOVERY V: 12.44
LOAD V2: 10.84
TEST NUMBER: 203
*GOOD BATTERY*
ALTERNATOR
REGULATOR VOLTS: 14.00V
PEAK CURRENT: 76.2A
*DIODE PATTERN IS GOOD*
The lights & instrument cluster glitched in the same manner this morning before leaving for the battery test. I noticed that the voltage gauge hung out at 0V while stuff flickered, and the needle eventually went up to ~9V.
Picked up the electrical cleaner and cleaned the exterior connections on the sensor. Dealership wanted $50 for a new one, so I thought I'd go back this week and get from a different guy at his cost. The light is less irritating than the Mr. Jekyll lighting.
Guess I'll drop it off at the dealer for the voltage issue.
