QTP HV Merge Header LEAKING BAD
They have a badge on them, so I don't think so. It looks to me like these are not supposed to be welded. They fully weld the first two, but they can't weld the inside of the last two. If it was a tighter fit, it wouldn't leak, but the slip fit wasn't that tight and now there is a huge gap.
-Geoff
-Geoff
. I have one from the batch that had no emblem on them but the primarys were not welded in the middle like most. I hope mine dont leak if they do I will be pretty pissed off considering we buy there product over a set of flow tech or pacesetters for the quality and peace of mind that we wont ever have to buy another set of headers. I love mine though, the performance and looks are great. Mine have very nice welds on them and I speak highly of them. I hope this is just a very rare ocurance. I mean this is the first time I ever heard of this happening.
Luckily I have an open loop tune so I am not using the O2's. My tune is rich right now, though, and it might be because the wideband was contaminated by the leak. I need to fix it and get it back on the dyno.
Does anyone know how hot headers get down at the collector? I need to find some epoxy that can take the heat.
-Geoff
i realy dont think epoxys are going to do anything for ya. the way the exhaust system expands and contracts plus like stated the spikes in heat, its just going to come off. i use alot of times for minor block repair, an alum rod (not exactly alum but close) that melts w/ a map gas torch. ill ask my parts guy where it can be bought and ill let you know. i think you might be able to fix it w/ that.
corey
corey
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I was going to say if you use an oxy / acctaline torch and heat it up then flow some high temp alluminum in there, it should seal just like sealing copper water pipe, but a much higher temp of course.
i realy dont think epoxys are going to do anything for ya. the way the exhaust system expands and contracts plus like stated the spikes in heat, its just going to come off. i use alot of times for minor block repair, an alum rod (not exactly alum but close) that melts w/ a map gas torch. ill ask my parts guy where it can be bought and ill let you know. i think you might be able to fix it w/ that.
corey
corey
There is no access to get a welder in there. It has to be something you can melt with a torch.
-Geoff
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 542
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From: Memphis, TN
you'd use aluminum brazing/soldering rods. Like these: http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomat...rnzoProd100064
Says they are good to 750F, I'm thinking that is high enough to seal a leak.
Says they are good to 750F, I'm thinking that is high enough to seal a leak.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
From: South Alabama
BTW Autozone carries a 2500 degree manifold patching material that works really good to seal up those cave like holes in QTP's "slip fit" connections.
You can melt a coat hanger like your talking about and seal that up. I bought some stainless exaust tips and used a torch/coat hanger to attach them to my hooker catback. They haven't fell off yet! Have you thought about wrapping the headers at that spot?
Doesn't sound like a QA issue. Sounds like a longevity/design issue. It is tough to get stuff to hold up to major heat cycles that headers go through while being subjected to broad band vibe profiles.
nope it is there quality control....my qtp headers came brand new with missing welds on the collectors, many people also have problems with the welds on there stainless steel cutouts
