QTP HV Merge Header LEAKING BAD
#41
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"You just don't understand, you just don't get it, you need to go to a "real" shop and let them explain it to you".
While that works well for them to deflect the issue one on one, its much more difficult to tell a couple of hundred people watching a thread the same thing.
#43
Sorry to hear that you guys are having to go through this with a supposedly top notch part. I was either going with QTP or KOOKS once the pacesetters finish rusting out. I was even leaning towards the QTP's but now I won't even consider them. Thanks for posting up with this to help those of us who were on the fence. Kooks it will be for me. Wow, really dissapointed in QTP right now. Hope you guys get them all sealed up without too much hassle.
#44
I'm surprised this isn't locked yet. QTP's HVM collector is leaking on another members car on this site and he has called QTP and posted about it and all he gets is "thats what you pay for performance". Yeah and next time we will save $700 and go with Pacesetters, at least they dont leak.
#45
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i sent my QTPs back for Kooks and im glad i did. i dont have time to install headers more than once and def dont want to chase stupid leaks. my kooks were top notch and wouldnt trade them for anything. the ARH's look unreal. and the responce on the ARH's have been awesome so far. Kooks has always got the same reveiws time and time again. if your looking to stay under the $700 mark then id wait to see what happens w/ the LLP headers. QTP better step up their game because they are getting left behind and fast.
#48
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I just saw this thread. These headers are such pieces of ****. Mine do the exact same thing. They leak at the exact same spot. I have to have my windows rolled down so I dont die in my car. I called QTP and even sent them pics like they asked. They wouldnt help me out at all and told me "thats the price you pay for performance" I pay $900 for what are supposed to be the best headers and get leaking junk. I have tried jb weld, high temp silicone and it all blows out shortly after. I dont even DD my car. When I get money im buying kooks and these are going to get in a fight with a saw zaw
#49
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I welded mine and they sealed up pretty good, but if i had to do it again it get me some Jet Hot coated LT's
We should all have an online petition...............to get qtp to fixed there headers!
We should all have an online petition...............to get qtp to fixed there headers!
#51
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That is a chicken-**** reply QTP gave you I have QTPs as well, but no leaks knock on wood. Had I known about their lousy customer service I would have bought kooks or ARH longtubes. The fact that they have not shown up in this thread to address these issues speaks volumes about their character, or lack thereof :
#52
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That is a chicken-**** reply QTP gave you I have QTPs as well, but no leaks knock on wood. Had I known about their lousy customer service I would have bought kooks or ARH longtubes. The fact that they have not shown up in this thread to address these issues speaks volumes about their character, or lack thereof :
#53
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Well I'm going to buy headers sometime soon and I was sold on QTP... but not anymore.
For me, they can't and won't fully recover from this. Sounds like they don't know how to treat their customers. After hearing all of this about them, I'll go with ARH or Kooks.
When you pay a premium for headers made from quality steel, you should receive premium customer support (and they should fix their welds).
Thanks to all of you for posting this, otherwise I would have given them my money.
For me, they can't and won't fully recover from this. Sounds like they don't know how to treat their customers. After hearing all of this about them, I'll go with ARH or Kooks.
When you pay a premium for headers made from quality steel, you should receive premium customer support (and they should fix their welds).
Thanks to all of you for posting this, otherwise I would have given them my money.
#55
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If anyone on here who has been able to permantly up until this point be able to fix this I would be interested to know. You can weld the from the front side. I removed my ypipe and the joint is too far forward to weld from the inside out. Whoever stated the idea of using a stick and torch might be onto something. Should work just like soldering copper pipe. LOL at the no response from QTP. Mods why are they allowerd to be a sponser on here and not back up their product?
#56
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manifold patching compound. All you have to do is clean it well with carb cleaner or some such chemical, then pack it with this stuff using an acid brush or popsicle stick stuffing it into the voids. It has worked for me so far, but I'm ordering the ARH header system as we speak!
Problem is they swege it to 0.035-0.040" per side/oversize slop fit and it has a hell of a leaking gap.
#58
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As I stated earlier, AutoZone carries a 2500 degree
manifold patching compound. All you have to do is clean it well with carb cleaner or some such chemical, then pack it with this stuff using an acid brush or popsicle stick stuffing it into the voids. It has worked for me so far, but I'm ordering the ARH header system as we speak!
The way the headers are fabricated is three tubes are placed into the collector and welded all the way around each tube. The last one is to be a "slip" fit, the smaller primary tube just small enough to place/fit into the collector. Its welded from the outside but the face of the tube inside next to the other three tubes is nearly impossible to weld. If they had quality control enough to keep the gap at 0.001" or so as it should be, there'd be no leak to tell of or need for a weld.
Problem is they swege it to 0.035-0.040" per side/oversize slop fit and it has a hell of a leaking gap.
manifold patching compound. All you have to do is clean it well with carb cleaner or some such chemical, then pack it with this stuff using an acid brush or popsicle stick stuffing it into the voids. It has worked for me so far, but I'm ordering the ARH header system as we speak!
The way the headers are fabricated is three tubes are placed into the collector and welded all the way around each tube. The last one is to be a "slip" fit, the smaller primary tube just small enough to place/fit into the collector. Its welded from the outside but the face of the tube inside next to the other three tubes is nearly impossible to weld. If they had quality control enough to keep the gap at 0.001" or so as it should be, there'd be no leak to tell of or need for a weld.
Problem is they swege it to 0.035-0.040" per side/oversize slop fit and it has a hell of a leaking gap.
exactly. if they kept the gap to a min the slip fit wouldnt be a big deal. and for anyone just chiming in on the subject, there have been countless threds on this topic already. this isnt anything too new.