Sorry, kind of a long story. Car info: I have a 99 T/A, M-6, with an LS6 swap, and an LS7 clutch. ( I bought the car like this)

A while back my starter began making this nasty grinding noise a every so often when I would crank the car. It started getting to the point where it would do it almost every time I started the car so I went to Autozone to get a new one. I swapped it out and the first couple of times the car started fine, then it started grinding like the last one did, but kept getting worse. I figure that the flywheel was bad (I could see the teeth were slightly rounded off) so I change that. A few starts later the grinding returns. It sounds slightly different now, but it's doing the exact same thing. It's bad enough where the car won't even start.

My question is, since it must be the starter, should I just get a replacement at the store? Will that solve the problem, or am I getting the wrong starter all together? I've been told that the regular starter for my car should work with the ls2 flywheel, but I'm wondering if the flywheel may have a different number of teeth causing it to not mesh up like it's supposed to. I noticed that even though the new starter has the same number on it and is the same brand, it is cut slightly different where the gear slides forward. I'm really not sure what to do and I would hate to waste my time replacing the starter only to find out that it's the wrong one and possibly damage the new flywheel.

Thanks

 

I would try a different brand of starter first. I haven't heard of the LS engines ever needing spacers to adjust the starter position, but i know some engines do. Maybe you could look into it if a different starter dosent solve the problem.

 

http://camaroforums.com/m_125173/tm.htm

like i said, not sure if you can shim LS engine starters though




SHIMMING THE STARTER
(From AutoZone Repair)

Starter noise during cranking and after the engine fires is often a result of too much or too little distance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. A high pitched whine during cranking (before the engine fires) can be caused by the pinion and flywheel being too far apart. Likewise, a whine after the engine starts (as the key is released) is often a result of the pinion-flywheel relationship being too close. In both cases, flywheel damage can occur. Shims are available in various sizes to properly adjust the starter on its mount. In order to check and adjust the shims, you will also need a flywheel turning tool, available at most auto parts stores.

If your car's starter emits the above noises, follow the shimming procedure:


Fig. 1: Checking the gap between the starter pinion and flywheel
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Disconnect the negative battery cable.
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Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
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Remove the torque converter/flywheel cover from the bottom of the bell housing.
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Using the flywheel turning tool, turn the flywheel and examine the flywheel teeth. If damage is evident, the flywheel should be replaced.


Most starters are equipped with an access hole in which a small screwdriver or prybar may be inserted to push the starter pinion outward into contact with the flywheel.
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Move the starter pinion and clutch assembly so the pinion and flywheel teeth mesh. If necessary, rotate the flywheel so that a pinion tooth is directly in the center of the two flywheel teeth and on the centerline of the two gears, as shown in the accompanying illustration.


Normal pinion-to-flywheel clearance is about 0.01-0.06 in. (0.5-1.5mm).
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Check the pinion-to-flywheel clearance by using a 0.020 in. (0.5mm) wire gauge (a spark plug wire gauge may work here, or you can make your own). Make sure you center the pinion tooth between the flywheel teeth and the gauge - NOT in the corners, as you may get a false reading. If the clearance is under this minimum, shim the starter away from the flywheel by adding 0.04 in. (1mm) shims one at a time to the starter mount. Check clearance after adding each shim, but do not use more than 2 shims.
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If the clearance is over 0.060 in. (1.5mm), shim the starter towards the flywheel. Broken or severely mangled flywheel teeth are also a good indicator that the clearance here is too great. Shimming the starter towards the flywheel is done by adding shims to the outboard starter mounting pad only. Check the clearance after each shim is added. Add 0.013 in. (0.33mm) shims at this location, one at a time, but do NOT add a total of more than 4 shims.

< Message edited by z28pete -- 10/15/2007 6:48:03 PM >

 

Get a different starter. I've never had to shim a starter in 25 years of working on my cars. MSD makes a hi performance starter if your interested, but otherwise look into a better brand. Cheap auto store parts that come with lifetime warranties dont always work out well.

 

I guess I could buy a new starter if it will solve my problem for good. I just want to be absolutely sure that I'm buying one that will fit my car properly.

 

Well GM starters have always had issues.. theres no getting around that, but at 84k my factory one from 99 is still doing fine. No guarantys. It seats near heat all the time, gets dirt in it and doesnt like turning over when it's warm

 

The brand of the starter I have right now is actually "palladium."

I don't know what type of reputation they have, but the one that broke originally and the replacement that broke were both that brand.

Another thing is I'm seeing different part #s for LS1, 2, and 6 starters. But I have an LS6 motor with an LS2 flywheel in an F-body.

Which of these do I go by to find out which I need?

I don't know whether there's differences in how it mounts to the engine or the number of flywheel teeth or what. I'm frustrated.

 

Never heard of them. I've had good luck with ac-delco starters in the past.
Some will recomned shims right there in the directions, I've never had to.