Normal voltage at idle? P1637
Normal voltage at idle? P1637 Hey guys-
Just curious what these cars show as normal voltage at idle?
I am throwing a P1637..
I have checked the exciter wire on the top of the alternator.. It seems to be fine..
Does anyone know the normal output voltage of the alternators on these cars while idling? I am showing a hair over 13 volts at idle.. Seems like it used to be closer to like 14.6?
Also.. My odometer is "blinking" or "flashing", kinda glitching like...
Also, my Interceptor guage stops working, until I turn the car off, then it boots up normally..
I have gremlins in my electrical system and I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go about eliminating items..
Thanks!
Jeff
Just curious what these cars show as normal voltage at idle?
I am throwing a P1637..
I have checked the exciter wire on the top of the alternator.. It seems to be fine..
Does anyone know the normal output voltage of the alternators on these cars while idling? I am showing a hair over 13 volts at idle.. Seems like it used to be closer to like 14.6?
Also.. My odometer is "blinking" or "flashing", kinda glitching like...
Also, my Interceptor guage stops working, until I turn the car off, then it boots up normally..
I have gremlins in my electrical system and I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go about eliminating items..
Thanks!
Jeff
Sounds like a ground problem. Most of the grounds, but not all are along the core support, it maybe different on a later car The car should be right around 14.7 at idle, but you might see a drop if you are running more eletric power for like a radar, speaker, amps and stuff.
Where are the main grounds?
I know of the ground on the driver side head on the back and the ground on the pax head on the back..
Where else can I look?
I found a site today to check and see if the alternator was going bad..
I've never tried to test an alternator so I don't know if these voltage readings are "normal."
Started car.. Idled.. Checked the voltage across the terminals.. 14.3v with a "fluctuation" on the voltmeter down to about 3v for less than a second.. Then back up to around 14.3v..
Highbeams on - 14.3v...
1500rpm with highbeams on... 14.3v with the same fluctuation..
Headlights off @1500rpm for a minute - max of 14.4v with a constant fluctuation from 14.4v down to about 0.05v..
I guess I need to start searching out the rest of the grounding locations..
I know of the ground on the driver side head on the back and the ground on the pax head on the back..
Where else can I look?
I found a site today to check and see if the alternator was going bad..
I've never tried to test an alternator so I don't know if these voltage readings are "normal."
Started car.. Idled.. Checked the voltage across the terminals.. 14.3v with a "fluctuation" on the voltmeter down to about 3v for less than a second.. Then back up to around 14.3v..
Highbeams on - 14.3v...
1500rpm with highbeams on... 14.3v with the same fluctuation..
Headlights off @1500rpm for a minute - max of 14.4v with a constant fluctuation from 14.4v down to about 0.05v..
I guess I need to start searching out the rest of the grounding locations..
On my car the are a few attached to the top of the core support on both side of the radiator shoudshould be three there maybe more. One on the passenger inner fender by the sturt housing.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 15
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My 2002 WS6 has starting doing the same thing. Alternator voltage is fluctuating. Already replaced the battery thinking it might have a cell shorting but that had no effect.
I was thinking maybe the brushes in the alternator are going. Has anyone else seen this problem, and if so, how did you fix it?
I was thinking maybe the brushes in the alternator are going. Has anyone else seen this problem, and if so, how did you fix it?
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First off, make sure you have a good connection with your DVOM at the connection point. You SHOULD NOT see a voltage drop. It should remain steady.
Next step is to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Don't just make sure the bolts are tight, try to move the cable after you've tightened the bolt.
Then start working your way away from the battery. Grounds, positive connections both. Make sure the main connection at the power distribution box is clean and tight.
Next step is to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Don't just make sure the bolts are tight, try to move the cable after you've tightened the bolt.
Then start working your way away from the battery. Grounds, positive connections both. Make sure the main connection at the power distribution box is clean and tight.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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First off, make sure you have a good connection with your DVOM at the connection point. You SHOULD NOT see a voltage drop. It should remain steady.
Next step is to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Don't just make sure the bolts are tight, try to move the cable after you've tightened the bolt.
Then start working your way away from the battery. Grounds, positive connections both. Make sure the main connection at the power distribution box is clean and tight.
Next step is to make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Don't just make sure the bolts are tight, try to move the cable after you've tightened the bolt.
Then start working your way away from the battery. Grounds, positive connections both. Make sure the main connection at the power distribution box is clean and tight.
Mine is a 2002 ss and it does the same thing with dash lights and head lights they just flicker and when you give it gas it gets a lil brighter then dims a little when off the gas i had autozone test the battery and alt they were both good...
